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  #1  
Old 06-14-2018, 06:22 PM
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clunk in front when turning 1983 300 td

When I turn, especially to the right, there is a clunk under my foot.

Everything is less than 2 years up front:
tie rods, upper ball joints, all control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, guide rod bushings and mounts, shocks, drag linkage... The only things I have not changed are lower ball joints and wheel bearings which seem to be okay.
Would this be caused by the caster too far extended on that side?
It is driving me crazy....Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 06-15-2018, 12:08 AM
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I have this in my w126 300sd.

Still havenít figured it out. Also Iíve changed a lot of suspension components.

Mine sounds like a bad ball joint but I have new ones installed. Or maybe a spring rubbing against the spring perch.

Iíve wondered if it could be something binding in the steering box. Perhaps a burr has formed on a bearing surface and just clunks as I go past it.

Iíve resolved myself to just drive the car and enjoy it.
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82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 200k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 160k miles
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  #3  
Old 06-15-2018, 12:51 PM
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Guide rod mounts?
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  #4  
Old 06-15-2018, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ottojd View Post
When I turn, especially to the right, there is a clunk under my foot.

Everything is less than 2 years up front:
tie rods, upper ball joints, all control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, guide rod bushings and mounts, shocks, drag linkage... The only things I have not changed are lower ball joints and wheel bearings which seem to be okay.
Would this be caused by the caster too far extended on that side?
It is driving me crazy....Thanks in advance.


What maker of parts did you use?


You are likely best off re-inspecting the suspension again.


The Torsion/Sway Bar has rubber bushings where it mounts to the Fire Wall.


Check the Bushings on the tips of the Sway Bar.


The Guide rods have a rubber sleeve up front where it bolts to the lower Control Arm that can rot away
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  #5  
Old 06-16-2018, 12:21 AM
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I did my guide rods both ends - the balljoint on the frame and the little part that goes on the rod tip at the lower control arm. I used cheap ones from an import car supply.

I also did every sway bar bushing when I did my booster replacement. Easy with the booster out.

Didn’t stop the clunk. Mine sounds like somebody took a hammer and hit the inner side of the front wheel when I turn the steering wheel. The funny thing is I heard the sound on the other side occasionally.

I’ve just about given up. The car drives great. It might be my cheap Meyle spring pads. It might be something wrong with the steering box. Whatever. I’m tired of throwing parts at mine.

I’ve searched around online and others have this issue with the w126. They throw a bunch of parts at it like me and it doesn’t go away. I’ve done all the easy stuff.
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82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
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  #6  
Old 06-17-2018, 12:04 PM
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So I think I figured out the problem. After checking all of the parts I found that the boot on one of the drag link ends was not sealed on the top properly and was way looser than the tie rod ends. Then I looked at the steering damper and the bushing where it attaches is completely shot. This is very frustrating as I had an alignment shop change those out. I asked what kind they put in and they said they were oem replacements (whatever that means). All the parts I put in were lemfoerder. Now I have a new drag link and steering damper on order...I am almost positive that the clunk was from that bushing turning as I turned the wheel.

Everything that I did not do myself has been a nightmare on this car. I actually spent 10 hours at the local Mercedes dealership waiting for them to figure out my alignment. Ultimately, they found that my guide rod mounts were bad at that time. Don't you think that would have been something to check right away? They did let me know that I had some rust holes in the floor...No sh#*@t

On another note, that bad drag link end will not come out without using a pickle fork. I usually can pound on the pitman arm end and they will fall out, but I pounded for longer than I would have liked with every manner of chemical and heat...Maybe they put it together without cleaning out the hole in the pitman arm? Don't know, but I guess it does not matter since I will be replacing the drag link.
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Old 06-17-2018, 12:05 PM
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...and I had just replaced the sway bar bushings which did get rid of some creaking...I used genuine Benz...
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  #8  
Old 06-18-2018, 09:19 AM
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Hey thanks for sharing I will take a look at my damper. I guess a quick test for me will just be pulling it off and seeing how it sounds...if that is possible. Thanks! I’ve been chasing this a few years.
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82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 200k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 160k miles
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  #9  
Old 06-18-2018, 03:49 PM
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I have been driving without the steering damper over 10 years and never noticed any difference after I removed it.
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  #10  
Old 06-21-2018, 10:42 AM
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So...It was not the damper or the drag link. However, it handles much better with these replaced. Night and day, actually...Could be that I drive on bad Michigan roads so there is a lot of bouncing around. The new damper keeps the wheel much steadier...
As for the clunk. The little support next tot he guide rod mount was loose! I tightened it up and the clunk is gone. I put a picture here, although it is pretty bad. It is a short arm that runs next to the guide rod mount with a bolt on each end. I can't believe this was causing so much noise...
Attached Images
File Type: bmp mount loose 2.bmp (56.6 KB, 15 views)
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  #11  
Old 06-21-2018, 10:50 AM
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Wow! Glad you solved it. Not sure what I’m looking at in the photo. I have a W126 so maybe it doesn’t have the supports you have. I’ll crawl under and take a look. Thanks for sharing.

Ok, just checked my w123 manual and my w126. Your 300TD certainly has a little tube over there presumably to stiffen things up. I don’t have that on my SD. There is the center support bar with the six bolts on it that seems to serve that purpose. I’ll retorque mine when I get the chance but I’ve checked it before and it isn’t loose. My car probably has a different issue than yours. Glad you sorted it out.
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82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 200k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 160k miles

Last edited by ykobayashi; 06-21-2018 at 11:18 AM.
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