I just replaced the upper control arms, the lower control arm bushings, and the sway bar bushings. Now I need to align it. Sounds like all this work should make it easier to do. Well, I've run into a snag. I don't understand what the eccentric bolts are for if they do nothing toward affecting the camber. My tie rods have stopped adjusting toe. What has happened here, and what do I need to do to fix it? I've rolled it out and back in, and that changed the toe from out to in, but it's still as un-adjustible.
I know some of you have done this before. Am I doing something wrong here?

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

While the eccentric bolt is supposed to be for adjusting the camber it also effects the caster but to a lesser extent.

Adjusting the Guide Rods (which have a lot more adjustment to them) is supposed to adjust the Caster but also effects the camber.

I am not sure if the toe in effects any of the other adjustments but I think some people forget that the toe in needs to be referenced to the centerline of the car.
Then there is that issue of using the spreader bar duing the toe in adjustment.

What are you useing to measure your ajustments?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Maybe I'm a hair off, but I've measured the car to be 1659.2mm wide in front, and 1615.9mm wide in the rear, measured at the wheel nearest the hub. Is there a fleck of dirt in the hub or wheel or something that is making that inaccurate? I'm saying no and going with it. So with that, I can measure a standoff of 100mm in the front and 121.6mm in the rear and have parallel fishing lines on two sets of jack stands. That's how I measured toe.
For the camber (& caster) I have a gauge made of wood calibrated with a level, 573mm separation between hanger and piece with 1cm markings to measure degrees.
Does the car really need to settle that much after doing that much work? Maybe I just need to roll it back and forth a few more times and keep adjusting?

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

I applaud your desire to DIY but for something as specialized as alignment and the cost in tire wear if screwed up, I would take it to an alignment shop. It is not that expensive. I too have an '83 300CD and would not consider a DIY alignment, particularly after replacing as much as you have.

Well, I do have the numbers now which I can give to a shop. 8 degrees caster and 0 for camber and toe would be fine. Then I could contemplate resetting toe with a spreader bar at home later.
Maybe after a couple more rolls back and forth out of the garage...
Actually, I think my problem might be that the 36-year-old tie rod won't adjust past a certain point because the threads are so rough and weathered. ...So I've ordered a couple new ones from the parts zoo. Maybe I could file the old threads smooth, but I really just want this to be done at this point.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

See the pic, these angle finders cost from $3 to $6 in tool places that specialize in chaeap tools. It is a decently accurate way to gage the camber.

You lay it across the flat area in the center of the Wheel. I can't remember if you need to remove the Grease Cap off of the hub to use it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Toe is always adjusted last. Start with Caster, then camber and finish with toe. Messing with toe before caster and camber are correct is a waste of time.

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1985 300 TD 448K
1984 300 TD 278K

1983 240D euro 240k
1994 f-250 idi turbo 330K
1986 f-350 IDI
1987 F-350 IDI

1985 JD 1050 4wd
1965 IH 3660

I'm setting caster using the 20-degree method, so the camber needs to be at zero before I can use it to gauge the caster. Of course, you can't set the camber if the wheels aren't pointed forward, so that has to at least be in range. On the passenger side, the caster is around 7, and the camber is maybe 30', and the toe is in. I can't adjust it out because of the condition of the threads of the tie rod. There are threads to be had, they just can't be used. I think incremental adjustments will get it there. I just need new tie rods that are adjustable to their full travel.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

The Steering Box has a plug at the bottom that can be remove and a pointed bolt inserted that screws into where the plug goes and the point goes into a hole inside and centers the Steering box and with it the Arm on the steering box.

In the pic is the one I made and the plug (copper crush washer is missing).

When you remove the plug not a lot of fliud will come out but as it sits it eventually drips/leaks out. The same if you use the pointed blot. Put a pan under it.

However, the steering box being locked in place dose not guarentee that the wheels wre actually pointed straight forward as example due to wear or the adjustments on the Tie Rods.

If you look under the front of the car you will see that there is Holes drilled in various parts of the Chassis. Some of those holes go down the centerline of the car and Mercedes has an elaborate setup that bolts into those holes for measuering.
So if you determine the centerline of the car you can detemine if the wheels are straight or not and from there the actual toe in.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

As was mentioned above, caster changes affect camber and vice versa. I had a shop chase it's tail and give the car back with both wheels camber maxed to one side of the car.

I think the tech set the 1st setting to spec and moved onto the 2nd. This changed the 1st setting and it was off when he checked it.

It doesn't specifically state this in the FSM but I expect that you have to anticipate the change. Caster increases cause camber increase and vice versa. The approximate amounts are in the FSM (for a 126). Your experience may vary.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

And that's why I'm attempting the alignment myself. Even if I took it to the Mercedes dealer, they would have it done by a local shop that would zero everything out with lasers and have it feeling like I'm skating across ice. I've bought two W123's now and I've loved the way they've driven... before alignments. West Virginia is clueless, and I'm finding it difficult to get a good alignment in South Carolina too.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

What is the size/pitch of that bolt, do you remember?

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

There's a tool that professionals are supposed to use that adjusts camber/caster simultaneously.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

In your case to get the tie rods to adjust toe you need to put the eccentric bolt in the center position between maximum camber and minimum camber. Then adjust the toe to zero then adjust camber then adjust to spec.
I just did mine because I took it to the shop and they said it would be $120-$150 for an alignment when the shop price board he was currently standing in front of said Alignment $75-$95

I passed by a shop just the other day that is advertising free alignment checks. Once I get the new tie rods installed and everything adjusted, I think I'll take them up on it. I wonder if that's with the purchase of tires or an oil change or something...
By the way, "center position" would be to the side, correct?

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather