Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-22-2018, 11:02 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 261
1985 300D Front Driver's popping/ knocking

I've searched to the point of exhaustion and pained eyes. I've found similar stories but nothing spot on that I could find.

1985 300D, entire front end is new with the exception of the firewall area sway bar bushings. Engine mounts are 1 year old, everything else about 4 months.

I get a popping/knocking sound predominately when turning the car at low to mid-range speed (10-30MPH), when the weight of the car settles to either side. I also hear/feel it when hitting the brakes hard. No noise when just going over speed bumps or rough roads. I think I can also hear it when I shut down the engine as well. Engine shocks are also new (about 3 weeks old).

I've checked the rotors and calipers, they're all new and tight in the front. I've tried rocking the engine on the mounts to duplicate the sound but haven't been able to. My indy shop went through it and couldn't quite tell but thinks it could be a guide rod mount. My alignment shop went through it and thinks they've narrowed it to the UCA bolt using their stethoscope tools. Nothing is loose.

I'm stumped. I tried getting a video this morning. It's not the clearest audio, but the noise can be heard at 0:54-55, 1:10-12, 1:25, 1:51, 2:00, and 2:08.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juJNv24gHRg&feature=youtu.be
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-22-2018, 01:33 PM
Father Of Giants's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Newport News, Virginia
Posts: 928
My question is, where the suspension parts genuine Mercedes/Lemforder or lesser quality Chinese parts.
__________________
1986 Mercedes 300SDL Black - 320,000 miles. Out of retirement-
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 128,000 miles - New daily driver.

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-22-2018, 01:38 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 261
Guide rod mounts and UCAs were all Lemf.....(however it's spelled). I think the only URO part I used was for the bushing at the bottom of the LCA under the spring mount.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-22-2018, 09:45 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 24,425
If the top of the shock absorbers are not screwd all the way down or the rubber bushings are shot they will also pop when they move
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-01-2018, 10:23 AM
ykobayashi's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 492
I have this problem too. I eagerly await a solution. Everything in my front end was replaced in the last two years. Mine sounds like somebody is striking my spring with a mallet. W126 tho. Happens while braking and turning...almost like a balljoint. Perhaps I damaged my new joint while installing it. Or perhaps it is a noisy shock that binds. Or my cheep Meyle spring pad.

Dunno. I’m going to keep driving.
__________________
ykobayashi
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 200k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 160k miles
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-01-2018, 11:47 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,526
Quote:
Originally Posted by ykobayashi View Post
Perhaps I damaged my new joint while installing it.
If you used a generic press, damage during installation as all but guaranteed.
__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-02-2018, 10:27 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 24,425
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
If you used a generic press, damage during installation as all but guaranteed.
A lot of members including myself have use the generic C-press to install the Ball Joints on the Steering Knuckle. However, that of course does not mean everyone will have succes.

You do need to get some wet/dry sand paper and clean out the bore on the Steering knuckle. You can heat the steering knucle to expand the hole.
You can put Oil on the end of the Ball Joint that goes into the steering knuckle. (I was taught not to press things together dry unless some spec called for that.)

In the attached pic is a read arrow. I should have taken the time to get a large Washer and ground out the inside diameter so it would slide over the ball joint shaft without touching because with the rounded top of the Lemforder ball joint the Press wants to slide off to one side. With the Washer there would have been a nice flat surface for that.


For others:
Ball Joints, Differances In Tolerances, 123
Attached Thumbnails
1985 300D Front Driver's popping/ knocking-ball-joint-c-press-where-put-washer-2018.jpg  
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-02-2018, 10:40 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 24,425
This is a pic of a tool I tried to make with for the C-press so it would push on the lip of the Lemforder Ball Joints. I gave on it before I finished it. In the pic it needed to be much shorter and have a step on the opposite end that fit into the C-press would have been helpful.

The tool needed to be cut long the dotted line to shorten it. That is a tube welded to a Washer. In order to get the right ID of tube I had to cut the tube length wise, pinch tube together and weld the length of the cut together. I could find no tube locally that with a good inside diameter that matched.

Even more helpful would have been if I read the old thread because another member, Dormison had already made the same tool.

Another problem with the C-press (I have 2 from different makers and also used a free rental from Autozon just to see the differences) is that the thread rod and hole have a very sloppy fit to them and there is a good deal of wobble. That makes it harder to press straight in.
Attached Thumbnails
1985 300D Front Driver's popping/ knocking-c-press-ball-joint-adapter-2018.jpg  
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-02-2018, 11:53 AM
ykobayashi's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 492
Yep, that would make sense. My issue started after I started throwing parts at the front end. I took the knuckles to a shop and they used a generic c frame press and an air tool to put in the ball joints. It really sounds like a ridge worn on the balljoint that clunks in a certain vertical and rotational position during turning at low speeds. I don’t think I’ll be redoing that job anytime soon.

no Worries. Time to drive the car.

I had creaky sway bar isolators, clunky guide rods and loose tie rods. Funny, I went in and changed all kinds of stuff and the sounds changed but this last clunk didn’t go away. It reminds me of my worn joint in my 240d that would clunk as I pulled up into my driveway or went slowly over a speed bump. But this one on the SD clunks as I said when I turn sharply in a parking lot. I bet I could change things up by marking the joint relative the the knuckle, undoing it, then rotating it 180. degrees and retorquing.

That would put the theoretical burr in there at a different spot. Probably it would clunk when I did something else like turned the other way. Maybe when I’m really bored I’ll try this experiment. But as I said, I gave up worrying about it.
__________________
ykobayashi
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 200k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 160k miles
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-02-2018, 02:29 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 24,425
If the Ball Joint is actually loose due to damage then you ought to see movement when you follow the procedure to check that.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-02-2018, 11:54 PM
ykobayashi's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 492
Mine isnít worn. There is no vertical play. What I suspect is there is a burr that hangs up in there while doing certain maneuvers.
__________________
ykobayashi
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 200k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 160k miles
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 07-03-2018, 07:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
Posts: 4,093
Did you change out the Guide Rod Bearing Mount when "throwing" parts at the front end? My experience of popping turned out to be these mounts.
__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 07-19-2018, 01:04 PM
ykobayashi's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 492
I solved my popping problem

So I posted here and Iíd had this popping problem in parking lots when making a sharp turn. It came from the drivers side.

Well on a whim I jacked up the car this morning and slipped a 22mm box wrench around the lower balljoint nut and ...it turned a 1/4 turn!

So I torqued it up as much as I could without splitting the upper joint and removing the caliper. The sound is gone.

Just thought that might help someone.

Perhaps when I was in there last I didnít get it tight enough. It is hard to access and as I recall it wants to spin unless you load the car which is hard with everything open for access. Or maybe it just worked loose.
__________________
ykobayashi
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 200k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 160k miles
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 07-19-2018, 10:36 PM
vwnate1's Avatar
Diesel Dandy
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
Posts: 3,305
Love simple solutions.
__________________
-Nate
1982 240D creampuff 370,000 miles
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 428,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Moto R60/6 Barn Find, 8,000miles
1959 VW #113 Deuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk, Rust
Arthritis, Crushed Spine,Broken Neck&Back
Memories &Peace Of Mind
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 07-20-2018, 06:48 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
This is a pic of a tool I tried to make with for the C-press so it would push on the lip of the Lemforder Ball Joints. I gave on it before I finished it. In the pic it needed to be much shorter and have a step on the opposite end that fit into the C-press would have been helpful.

The tool needed to be cut long the dotted line to shorten it. That is a tube welded to a Washer. In order to get the right ID of tube I had to cut the tube length wise, pinch tube together and weld the length of the cut together. I could find no tube locally that with a good inside diameter that matched.

Even more helpful would have been if I read the old thread because another member, Dormison had already made the same tool.

Another problem with the C-press (I have 2 from different makers and also used a free rental from Autozon just to see the differences) is that the thread rod and hole have a very sloppy fit to them and there is a good deal of wobble. That makes it harder to press straight in.
When I needed to make an adapter to press w123 ball joints, I found that a threaded coupler for 1.5” schedule 40 pipe could be made to fit by taking a die grinder to the threads on the inside of one end. I ended up welding mine to a heavy plate with a notch cut in it and using an H frame press and they went in easily.

X2 on double checking the guide rod mounts for the noise though.
__________________
'83 300D turbo diesel (334k daily commuter)
SOLD '80 240D 4 speed manual, #2 piston pitted from crushing a 10mm nut. Running it 'till it burns through.
'78 F-150 300cid 4spd od (with my great unkle's original sales receipt)
SOLD '66 Ford P-350 delivery truck (almost driveable)
'49 Dodge B1D (1 ton Pilothouse era truck) not running but all there, candidate for om617 and 4x4 conversion when money permits.

Last edited by TurboRedkneck; 07-20-2018 at 06:50 PM. Reason: Add more musings
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:24 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page