OM606 Belt Tensioner Lever Bushings, & Other Questions
 

Has anyone found a source for the split sleeve bushings that are pressed into the belt tensioner lever on OM606 engines? Or perhaps another way of going about it, does anyone have the dimensions handy that would allow someone to source the sleeves through a supplier such as this?

FLANGED SLEEVE BEARINGS | Split Type - Metric

I'd like to rebuild the tensioner lever I have rather that buy a new one from Pelican. Pushing the old sleeves out and pressing new ones in would be easy and inexpensive, and less wasteful.

I'm also considering just replacing the lever to save the effort/time but would like to avoid paying the extra money for the genuine M-B part if the quality difference is minimal or non-existant. How about the Febi replacement lever, 606-200-01-73-M36 offered by our host? Or how about the INA W0133-2040882? How different can they be from "genuine"? I've had good luck with lots of Febi parts, and INA too.

I'm getting into this because the pin the lever rides on is scored and the fit between those parts is a tad loose. The plastic cover is gone and has been since I bought the car a couple years ago. Who knows how long dirt and water have been getting in there. Along with the pin I'm replacing the spring, damper, thick washer, and cap and seal with genuine parts. I'm going to use the INA pulley. I've got a 3000+ mile trip coming up and I want to make this repair before hitting the road.

Thanks!

You should deal with this problem. The pulley on my alternator came apart in two pieces a few months ago while I was driving. I think the cause was a bad belt tensioner which, most likely, caused vibrations on the pulley. Anyway, the tensioner was also bad and had to be replaced.

INA is a good brand. They make some Mercedes parts.

I guess you are talking about repairing the Y or V shaped part that holds the spring and small shock absorber. I have no idea as to whether it can be repaired. I think the better choice is to replace it.

Sometimes its better to bite the bullet, and spring for the GENUINE parts rather than nickle and dime a repair. The tensioner lets go, and YOU ARE DEAD IN THE WATER, and hopefully the serpentine belt doesn't wipe out anything else that can cause a catastrophic event.

Thanks for the replies, but I still am curious about rebuilding the lever myself. It looks like compatible bushing sleeves are available. If nothing's wrong with the casting and the lever-to-pin fit is good with fresh bushings, why not? Geez, if I had a lathe large enough I'd make them myself. The idea of rebuilding the lever is not new - it's been done at least once on OM603 (different type bearing, yes):

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/365364-om603-belt-tensioner-lever-option.html

And just what is a "genuine" part? I've bought parts by Febi, Behr, Corteco and others that came to me appearing identical to the factory original part being replaced, but with original M-B markings milled or ground off. Hence my probing for anyone's experience with the Febi and INA tensioner levers, for example. Sometimes the $40 part is equal to the $130 one with M-B markings and packaging.

Well, it's moot now. I ordered up all new M-B genuine parts, lever and pulley included. I don't have the time right now to fuss with figuring out the lever rebuild (hoped someone else already had), and it was easier ordering everything from a single supplier so I can just get it done and go on the trip sooner rather than later.

I will hang onto the old lever I'm going to replace, though, and look for the bushing sleeves to make the repair and have a spare on the shelf. When I figure it out I'll let you know, if I'm successful.

Thanks again for your thoughts!