I have a question about rear windshield replacement.
 

I have the MB seal and I'll pick up a small tub of plumbers putty before I start and I've had Whunter's DYI on this project marked and read for months. I have a question for those who have done this job.

Does the cord get pulled from inside the car?

Yes from the inside. You're essentially lightly pushing the glass into place while pulling the gasket over the metal lip of the body. Overlap the string a lot at each end, be patient and start over if something is going as planned...it isn't that difficult.

Good luck!!!

I appreciate that. I have new (to me) glass which is perfect. The rear windshield I'm replacing is frosted and so is the one on my parts car. The newer glass is off an 89 420SEL and has a layer of the MB glazing compound. Though it sat in the sun for over a decade the glass isn't frosted. I suspect the MB compound is the difference between those.

I feel much more confident now that you've shared the instructions and advise. Thank you.

strongly advised
 

before the project itself... please take a look

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4hAT0aSIyM&t=


its w116 but technique is the same...

good luck

ChO


.

Dude, awesome video link! Thanks a bunch, this pretty much removed all the confusion I had on doing my w123 front and rear windshields. Explained all the stuff I didn't know

Good video, but when removing the seal, if the seal is getting thrown away, you can cut the lip with a razor blade. Then you can just push it out from inside without suction cups.
I thought the FSM called for glycerine (any pharmacy), but it's good to have some silglide around. Good tip, but you don't need a turkey baster for the W123. It does wear in the fingertip IIRC.

That video is nothing less than magnificent. It's exactly what I needed. He left no stone unturned by providing exhaustive instructions on what, how, when and where.

As my granddaddy would say, 'much obliged.'

I also appreciate the recommendation of glycerine too. That seems like it would be slower to dry than regular dish washing liquid.

Sev, the section drawing of the trim and gasket has the barb (or hook) on the trim turned wrong. The barb turns toward away from the glass according to his video. I know it's not a big issue but it had me second guessing my estimation of how the gasket sits in relationship between the body and glass.

After getting a close look at the seal it seems obvious that anything the size of the clothes line woven rope ( ~1/4th inch) is unnecessary. I have some string I use to string top plates while framing houses, I'm going to try that instead.

The body lips of the gasket seem thin and fairly soft which is much less intimidating that I previously conceived.

Nnooo. Plumbers putty will dry out, harden and crack despite what the package says. You want the stuff I've described below




2X NNooo. Never use silicone lube near anything you ever might want to paint. Silicone is a real mess to remove since it just smears around and won't dissolve. Glycerine will interfere with the bedding compound I've described above.

I dropped by Keystone in Greenville and...
 

Picked up a tube of the 3M stuff. 20 bucks. I'm using pure Ivory Liquid dish washing liquid for a lube.

Ammonia will remove silicone residue if you'll wipe the majority off with a dry rag or disposable towel. I know because I stripped the all the vinyl in my project car with ammonia/Ivory then used the SEM process. I got nothing off the vinyl with any of those products because there was nothing left after the ammonia bath.

I didn’t use any sealant. The rubber is really pliable and it seals well to the sheet metal so long as he surface is smooth.

I had to do a little rust repair in the lower corners with quick steel.

If you are going to paint the window area, the time to do it would be while the window is out. In any case, make sure it's clean first.

Why not use the recommended MB sealant? 001 989 31 20
Glycerine is safe with that.

A fatter clothes line is softer on the rubber lip when it pulls it over.

Someone in another thread used the MB sealant, no idea as to how it compares to the 3M. The 3M stuff can be had at any decent auto body supply house.

One of the issues with using lube us the sealer won't stick to the surface leaving a future leak path. Things won't leak right away and by the time you have an in car leak, the flange will be rusty.

I put some 3M stuff in the glass groove in the gasket ( not too much as it will make the gasket stick out too much ) , a thin bead around the cars flange ( where the pinch welds are ) , install glass then use the caulking gun to run a bead under the rubber to car area for a final seal.

Well, Mercedes says to use their sealant and glycerine. That's what I do. It's available from Peach also for around $20-$25. Next time you need an oil filter you might want to consider it. The MB tube comes with a special flat tip that lets you slip the applicator under the seal.