|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Turbo Diesel Intake/Exhaust Manifold Replacement - Any Advice?
1983 300d-turbo
I just finished a valve job, including valve cover gasket. Now I'm finally getting around to doing the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets. I read about people burning the contents of the manifolds to clean them out, and other methods I was wondering, other than the actual cleaning out of the guts of the manifolds, and cleaning the mating surfaces, what other associated repairs can be done at this time? Or any other advice about talking this repair job Thanks, -Sev
__________________
i know Jim Smith. i don't actually know him, but I know of him
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/6201/RQ1H6A.jpg |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I swapped mine with manifolds from a '79 SD because it didn't have an EGR.
Alternatively, you could take this opportunity to install a block off kit. Paint the exhaust manifold a nice silver color that will soon flake off... BTW, I've heard that you could warp your manifold from the "fire chief" cleaning method.
__________________
1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
If you really want to clean them up take them to a machine shop and have them run them thru their parts washer cabinet - it's made to clean stuff like this. And while they're at the shop have them take a light cut to flatten the cylinder head mating surfaces. If you want a nice finish you'll need to have them ceramic coated but I just live with mine in the raw state.
Dan |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
I would try the typical foaming citrus engine degreaser first. Or, People have said that oven cleaner works. However, with the oven cleaner I would not leave it in there more then 2 hours. It will turn the aluminum black if left on too long.
If you are lucky one of the manifold studs will unscrew and yo will see that there is only about 4 full threads on the end that screws into the cylinder head. That means they cannot be tightend down a lot or they will strip. When I removed the manifolds I never found the torque for the Nuts and it would be difficult to torqe some of them anyway. I looked on the internet and did find a torque for generic copper manifold nuts but I don't remember the torque. Someone posted a torque in one of the threads but I cannot remember that either. Take a straight edge across all of the precision surfaces especially on the exhaust manifold and see if they are straight across.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I used diesel as a solvent and long thin flexible brushes to get almost all the guck out of my intake manifold, followed up with soap and hot water with those same brushes to get the last bit. Rinsed with clean water and blown out with the air compressor. This was NOT a fun job and if a local engine shop will toss it in their parts washer next time they do a run for a few bucks, I would definitely do that instead. Would have done a much better job, too.
Definitely disconnect the EGR as well.
__________________
617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Note be careful removing the Nut from the Turbo outlet expansion joint clamp. I tried to remove 2 of those at the Junk Yard and the Nuts were seized onto them and I actually twisted of the threaded portion on one of them and simply gave up on the other.
With that in mind when I did the one at home I had penetrating Oil, a propane torch for heat and a wire brush to clean the thread off before I tried to turn off the nut. If I had to I also had a Nut Splitter to crack the Nut off and simply buy another nut. I don't have a memory of what I actually ended up doing with it but I know I did not break off the threaded end of the Clamp.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|