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  #16  
Old 07-09-2018, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
I talked to the Manager there, maybe some other guy was to lazy or doesn't like working with the older cars, I know almost every M-B _Dealer_ is like this, why I go to the Classic Center .
Did you actually confirm that they can cut the cylinder to match the original VIN code? Because they told me they could get it, then upon researching further, found out they couldn't and that what was available is the "service" cylinder that comes with a random key.

Having been told yes, then no, then yes, then no by so many places including the Classic Center, unless someone orders one and it comes in and fits the OEM VIN-Coded key, they're NLA.
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  #17  
Old 07-10-2018, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
Just FYI, VIN-matched lock cylinders for pre-1990 vehicles are NLA. Confirmed by the dealer just last week. They can still get the keys, just no ignition cylinder. You can still get an OEM one, but it'll be randomly keyed, no more VIN matching and only comes with a single key (you can't get a 2nd key unless you get it duplicated by a locksmith). They want $180 for it.....OUCH.

This is the reason why I hope soon to go into the business of re-keying ignition locks to match the rest of the original locks. I have a locksmith partner and will do all keys to my cars first, then do others. Will probably specialize in 123 124 126 and the 50s-60s cars.
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  #18  
Old 07-10-2018, 06:30 PM
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Post Un Sticking Old Locks

Notice I didn't mention powdered Graphite, that's for a reason .

Liquid Graphite will soak into the nether regions of old dirty, gummed up locks and loosen them up, then the liquid carrying agent evaporates leaving behind Graphite....

Don't take short cuts and never give up until you've tried everything .
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  #19  
Old 07-11-2018, 03:42 PM
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hey , nate , I just tried whatever I had , got me today a can of graphite , soaked it in there as well , lifted the front wheels up , as if that would really help, but worth a try, the last 3hrs, I was messing around with everything that vibrates, jigsaw etc. to apply vibration to the key , while applying light pressure on the key as well , I felt for a second it was moving , but I keep on trying ,gotta go to work now , I hope the manager from the mb center has soon good news for me , because apparently they have a problem with my vin number in their archives , well at least he tries , mb walters in riverside , basically "refused" to help me, they cant get matching keys for the tumbler and my vin ,oh well , I guess they are too good to deal with a customer that never gave them business before . I will keep you updated , I will be on it tomorrow morning again .
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  #20  
Old 07-11-2018, 07:15 PM
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Post $tealership NO Service

O.K., I understand the frustration on that end, when I worked in a dealership (not M-B) I was one of the very few there who gave a rat's patoot about anything older than five years .

Do what you have to do I guess .

DO NOT use WD40 ! that's a solvent not any sort of lubricant and always causes troubles .
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-Nate
1982 240D creampuff 370,000 miles
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 428,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Moto R60/6 Barn Find, 8,000miles
1959 VW #113 Deuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk, Rust
Arthritis, Crushed Spine,Broken Neck&Back
Memories &Peace Of Mind
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  #21  
Old 08-29-2018, 01:54 PM
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Update : so got the new , of course didn't worked :-(

so I went ahead ordered a new lock assembly plus tumbler , but not from the stealership , too expensive.


so here I went and attacked the old lock assembly , glad I didn't drill out the tumbler , come to find out the whole lock assembly was faulty once I took it out .


drilling it out is fairly easy , my cheapo de walt cordless driller did the job within 4 minutes drilling with rotary moves , went straight through the column and lock assembly "shaft" , of course I took of the clamp first and those 3 bolts beneath the brake release "latch" , after I drilled through it , the steering column easily dropped on my chest , definitely not an easy job for a tall guy I assume lol .


so ,yeah, she is running again , sorry for the late reply I was busy as.....
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  #22  
Old 08-29-2018, 02:02 PM
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if you plug off the egr/3.2 valve vacuum lines and you still get a flare - I highly doubt that replacing a 3/2 valve is going to fix a flare. I've rebuilt mine, and had the whole assembly on and off a few times - it has very little impact on the shifting. In any case, a big leak there would probably lead to harsh down shift from 2 to 1. not the flare, which will be more related to the pressure setting in the modulator.
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