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  #16  
Old 07-08-2018, 07:06 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MB140300SD View Post
Here are a few ways to tell if the engine was replaced with a factory crate engine. The engine number will be blank after 603 on the flat surface by the IP. It will have torx bolts for valve cover and other fasteners instead of head heads. It will have a part number plate on the passenger side bell housing. I have a 92 300SD that I picked up for $300 that has a factory crate motor and is the smoothest running diesel I have ever seen.
Thank you, good info! I will look for those clues.
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  #17  
Old 07-08-2018, 08:23 PM
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Location: NE Oklahoma
Posts: 122
This is what you would be looking for on the bell housing on the passenger side, should be able to see it with a flash light from the top side.

http://okiebenz.com/pics/603engine/images/MVC-011S.JPG
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  #18  
Old 07-08-2018, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MB140300SD View Post
This is what you would be looking for on the bell housing on the passenger side, should be able to see it with a flash light from the top side.

http://okiebenz.com/pics/603engine/images/MVC-011S.JPG
Thank you, I appreciate it!
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  #19  
Old 07-09-2018, 06:01 AM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
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Location: SF Bay Area
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Do you know if it has a late style vacuum pump? A telltale is 4 screw heads on the pump front cover but there’s a middle range of pumps that has screws but retains open bearings. Anyone who knows 603s knows about the vacuum pump.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
C320 wagon
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  #20  
Old 07-09-2018, 05:07 PM
WTB: 94/95 E320 Wagon
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,438
Don - ignore all the naysayers - if the car indeed has a factory crate engine installed, it'll be just as bullet-proof as any other OM60x engine from the eighties or nineties. My understanding is original issue was a bad head gasket design that allowed oil to leak into the #1 cylinder and cause a hydro-lock, which bent the rod, and it was all downhill from there.

Worse case scenario, you need to replace the engine. Spend a thousand or two and get an OM606 turbo, which is the next generation engine with far more power, from a '98 or '99 E300. Keep your OM603 injection pump, install the OM606 engine with turbocharger and intercooler, and then enjoy life for years and years.
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'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~380k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 379k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #21  
Old 07-09-2018, 06:11 PM
Diesel user
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
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Here is my 350SD om606 swap story if you (or some forum lurker) decides to go down that road:

W126 short body OM606
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  #22  
Old 07-09-2018, 07:33 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Do you know if it has a late style vacuum pump? A telltale is 4 screw heads on the pump front cover but there’s a middle range of pumps that has screws but retains open bearings. Anyone who knows 603s knows about the vacuum pump.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
C320 wagon
Thanks, I don't know yet. I'll know more on Saturday.
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  #23  
Old 07-09-2018, 07:50 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
Don - ignore all the naysayers - if the car indeed has a factory crate engine installed, it'll be just as bullet-proof as any other OM60x engine from the eighties or nineties. My understanding is original issue was a bad head gasket design that allowed oil to leak into the #1 cylinder and cause a hydro-lock, which bent the rod, and it was all downhill from there.

Worse case scenario, you need to replace the engine. Spend a thousand or two and get an OM606 turbo, which is the next generation engine with far more power, from a '98 or '99 E300. Keep your OM603 injection pump, install the OM606 engine with turbocharger and intercooler, and then enjoy life for years and years.
Thank you, Max. I've been talking to a couple of local diesel techs as well and they agree with what you wrote. If it is indeed a factory crate engine then it should be rock solid as long as it is kept up properly.

I think it is time for me to dump my newer cars and save the proceeds so if I really do need a new engine and/or transmission it won't such a heavy blow.
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  #24  
Old 07-10-2018, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wschotty View Post
Here is my 350SD om606 swap story if you (or some forum lurker) decides to go down that road:

W126 short body OM606
Wow, very cool thread! That's excellent information. I hope I won't have the need to go down that path but it is great to have this as an option in my back pocket! Thanks for your post!
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  #25  
Old Yesterday, 11:34 AM
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So I went to check out the car yesterday. The good:

-It is in very good technical shape
-engine sounds very healthy, no smoke, runs smoothly
-the engine (Shortblock) had been replaced under warranty
-haven't found any leaks
-drives like on rails, brakes very good
-transmission shifts smoothly, replaced under warranty
-has a straight body
-good chrome
-everything works inside, including vacuum operated locks
-leather in great shape except for driver's seat
-carpet good, will be great after a good cleaning
-extensive service records from 1991 to now
-tires about 50%
-mostly original so I don't expect a lot of 'creative' wiring etc.
-238K miles on car, 150K miles on engine and transmission

The bad:

-clear coat is bad from UV radiation, one small rust spot at bottom of rear windshield
-small hole in driver's seat backrest (repairable, seat is good other than that)
-clear coat on wood trim cracked but veneer appears undamaged
-b-pillar covers are loose, cracked plastic parts
-plastic lower side covers on front seats cracked
-passenger headrest stuck, motor humming but no movement at all

In my eyes the good outweighs the bad by far. I bought it and took it home! I'll be working on issues and enjoy driving this tank. :-)
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  #26  
Old Yesterday, 11:36 AM
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  #27  
Old Yesterday, 11:39 AM
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  #28  
Old Yesterday, 12:23 PM
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Looks like you scored a decent ride! When you get to driving it you'll quickly fall for it, especially the first time you take it on a road trip.

The problems you list are all pretty common and should be easy enough to fix with some care and common sense. Be *EXTREMELY* careful and gentle with any interior plastic trim pieces, they're about like potato chips in their level of fragility and will shatter if you don't handle them like a Faberge egg! The sun and heat just seems to turn the plastic brittle over time.
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  #29  
Old Yesterday, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
Looks like you scored a decent ride! When you get to driving it you'll quickly fall for it, especially the first time you take it on a road trip.

The problems you list are all pretty common and should be easy enough to fix with some care and common sense. Be *EXTREMELY* careful and gentle with any interior plastic trim pieces, they're about like potato chips in their level of fragility and will shatter if you don't handle them like a Faberge egg! The sun and heat just seems to turn the plastic brittle over time.
Thank you, I feel very good about this car. It will make for a reliable and pleasant ride. I will go thru it and fix the issues along the way, starting with fixing the paint.

I hope to find a serviceable set of OEM rims locally so I can fix them up and put new rubber on. The current tires look ok but the manufacturer stamp shows them to be 8 years old!
Stock size tires aren't very expensive so I won't take chances.
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  #30  
Old Today, 07:38 AM
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1991 300D 2.5 Turbo
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NC, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Andres View Post
So I went to check out the car yesterday.

The bad:

one small rust spot at bottom of rear windshield
Keep a close eye on that. The area under the rear glass on the w126 likes to rust out. If you do a google search for "w126 rear window rust" you will see some truly horrific examples.

Keep an eye on the undersides of the doors too.

POST MORE PICS! (I like the eye candy).
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