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  #1  
Old 07-28-2018, 12:24 PM
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1999 E-300D 606 shutting down

Good morning All!! Over the years, I have gleaned Tons of valuable and applicable information from this forum...Thanks to All of you for your input!
I have a 99 E300 606TD. I have done a CAT delete with open exhaust, Full EGRectomy with the resistor mod and it runs Amazingly well but I've also tried to accomplish the MAF delete with the resistor but am still running into code issues and limp mode. The MAF delete thread kind of died years ago and I need to revive it....if anyone can help.
I'm also having a new issue that just started recently......you can be driving normally....maybe 10 minutes, maybe 30 minutes and it just shuts off....nada, done, dead and won't restart for hours.
I did some digging and found a possible problem being the K40 relay assembly. Apparently on the gas cars, this relay controls the fuel pump and the diesel models it operates the fuel shutoff valve and is prone to failure after a lot of years. Anyway, I ordered a new one and installed it with high hopes, but still did the same thing!! Does Anyone have any ideas on what might be causing this?
Help is MUCH appreciated!!
Thanks!!

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  #2  
Old 07-28-2018, 04:00 PM
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I would replace the K 40 just on principle… Cheap and easy and what you’re experiencing is a known symptom.

Edit...oops, sorry...didn't read your post carefully enough.
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Last edited by shertex; 07-28-2018 at 05:12 PM.
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  #3  
Old 07-28-2018, 04:51 PM
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I had an issue once that appeared to be the K40 cutting off power, turned out to be a faulty connection from the wiring harness to the SOV itself. Back then there were no donor cars around, I had to fly a new harness here from Germany.

Since you have a new K40 already, I'd look at the electrical plug and SOV itself.
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  #4  
Old 07-28-2018, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
I would replace the K 40 just on principleÖ Cheap and easy and what youíre experiencing is a known symptom.
As I read his post, it sounds like he already replaced the K40, but it didnít solve the problem.

Does a diesel have a crank position sensor? I just went through a random shut-off situation on my wifeís car (2006 E350 wagon with the 3.5L V6 gas) and it ended up being the crank position sensor.
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  #5  
Old 07-30-2018, 06:52 PM
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Yep, replaced the K40 relay right off and it didn't fix it......Very disappointing!!! I was under the impression that the crank sensor would still allow it to fuel, but not start.....you know....a little cranking smoke but no go... I was also thinking the crank sensor wasn't as intermittent as some other problems.....i.e. when it goes, it's done. I haven't run any of the harness connectors yet but it's on the list of things to try next before spending any more $$$.
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  #6  
Old 07-30-2018, 07:33 PM
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The injection pump on the W210's is electronically controlled. If the crank sensor is kaput, it would stand to reason that the computer wouldn't give the engine any fuel. When you're cranking the engine, does the tach needle move up off the peg?
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  #7  
Old 07-30-2018, 07:49 PM
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I just went through this on my 98 E300.

CKP failure WILL result in immediate, sudden, engine shut down. See if you have P0725 on OBDII or P1335 on HHT (or the Xentry HHT Emulator).

Get the real MB starred part from an MB dealer. Make sure it’s Bosch part 0 281 002 124 which correlates to MB part number 003 153 74 28.

Bosch claims that part 0 281 002 123 is a direct replacement. Well no it is not as I found out, I tried 2 different sensors before going to the dealer. The -123 is the sensor Pelican sells. (No disrespect meant to Pelican, they are going by the Bosch sensor guide, linked in my thread linked below, which has bad information.)

If you are willing to get a little banged up on the hand and wrist, then you can reach down in the hole just below the oil filter to wrangle the sensor out. Otherwise you will need to remove the intake. If you look just below the oil filter you will see a right angled plug on the bell housing. The sensor is under the plug.

First unplug it, grasp the plug head and pull straight off. A 5 mm hex adapter, a swivel, and two 12” extensions will loosen the single bolt, take the bolt off, then just grasp the body and pull straight out of the engine.

W210 CAN bus issues
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  #8  
Old 07-30-2018, 09:52 PM
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Good info.
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  #9  
Old 07-31-2018, 04:31 PM
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Thank you Jay Bob! I'll update when I have the time & $$ to get back to it!!!
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  #10  
Old 10-08-2018, 07:23 PM
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Just wanted to give an update on the '99.......as ya'll might have figured, this is a project car and hasn't been needed for transportation.....till now! Got T-boned in my wifes Acadia Denali and totaled it.....now to scramble for another means of transportation!! Ordered the crank sensor from MB on friday, arrived this morning.....went ahead and yanked the intake to do a little housekeeping, replaced the crank sensor and Life is Good!!!! So now with a new K-40 relay module And a new C.S., I should be ok for a while!!!
I DO have another issue I'm chasing though.....for you power tuners.... I've done a CAT Delete and free flow exhaust, full EGR delete with intake porting and I've been trying to get the MAF delete done but it's giving me hell.... I pulled the info off of another thread on here and added a resistor inline to give the computer a full fuel reading but it's still throwing P0100 codes and going limp!
Somewhere I was reading that there was an equivalent MAF sensor from a VW diesel that would work in place of the MB unit at WAY less $$$ than the MB. My cost on the MB MAF is a little over $320.00 but I'd Rather go a little cheaper just to get it running again without throwing codes until I can get back to decoding the delete.
Do Any of you know which VW MAF this might be? Again, All help is Greatly appreciated!!
Thanks, TxQuigly
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  #11  
Old 01-22-2019, 11:25 AM
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Location: Huntsville, Alabama
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Did you ever do the resister version of the MAF disable? I did it on my 98 e300 and it worked great. I think it was a 22k resistor.

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Last edited by Shrimpblue; 03-17-2019 at 06:46 PM.
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