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  #1  
Old 07-31-2018, 10:51 PM
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Thoughts? '82 300CD - 125k mi

I spent 2 hours with this vehicle doing my due-diligence. I wanted to get some thoughts here before I call in my mechanic. It appears the car was maintained well, but unfortunately the seller didn't have complete documentation to back it up.

I've driven 300TD's and 300D's before, but this is my first CD - and it was GREAT. It almost ruins the other trims for me...

- Rust: My spot checks didn't catch any rust in the usual spots. The bottom of the doors were bone dry, trims were dry, and the bottom of the car was clean. Their were very slight hints of rusts surrounding some screw holes on the wheel wells - I'm not sure if there's supposed to be a chrome trim here?

- Fuel Tank Meter: the needle just floats back and forth. I think it was showing an accurate reading when still. Is this a DIY fix or part of the "charm"?

- Stuck rear window: The window goes down, half way. Is this a regulator issue? Possibly a simple DIY fix?

- Cracked dash: - This seems to be the norm across all the 300's. This shouldn't be a deal breaker right?

- Headliner: There's some slight rust color stains around the ceiling lamps in the rear. Anyway to determine if theres rust damage here? Or is this innocent sunroof roof leakage?

- Screws in the wooden trim: Is this an easy fix with some donor parts? Or is there a reason they had to be screwed directly through the wood into the dash? I think there's supposed to be a metal plate/clip behind the wood?

- Weird front wheel stance: Is this a common issue with the suspension? An easy fix or will this need some new parts/labor?

- Rubber trim: most of the exterior rubber trim is dried out. The big knob of rubber by the door edge is almost brittle. Is this a potential problem? Are replacement parts plenty for the CD? I fear they are not...

I've been searching for a black/black CD for a long time and this particular reference drives great and looks great. My paranoia is saying this may be too good to be true, but I also think this vehicle is in true honest condition for 125k miles. Car starts up, drives strong, love the turbo, and shuts down quickly.

Additional maintenance and detailing post-sale is part of the game, but my biggest concern is the potential cost in sourcing obscure parts and getting my issues noted above resolved.

Anyone with experience cleaning up and maintaining a 300CD? I appreciate any input!

I apologize for the wonky post, typing from my phone...










Last edited by davebenz; 07-31-2018 at 11:02 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-31-2018, 11:13 PM
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Other than the few blemishes you mentioned, it looks like a decent car. Since you were looking for an original black/black CD, you know as well as I do how rare they are. I used to have one, and I have only seen one other (I've seen many a 300CD). We don't know what you paid for it, so you may be the only one to know if you got a good deal or not.



Yes you will need to replace the wood trim, it is a bummer someone screwed it in. I saw a thread here somewhere about the window rubber being available from somewhere in Europe. Coupe window regulators are harder to find than sedan/wagon, so hope it is not bad. It sounds like a switch though, so you may be in luck. I hope it is not hot where you live. An all black car is like driving around in an oven, even if the A/C works. There is something extra "cool" about an all black car though. I am just not sure what that is
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  #3  
Old 08-01-2018, 05:26 AM
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Needy old cars will lighten your pocket book , I would live with some of the items that are cosmetic, you can open up more problems than you want if a mechanic or interior shop gets their hands involved.I can say the stance looks right ,the raised wheel well is common.I would concern yourself with mostly the weatherstripping,doors are known to rot at the bottom due to water getting past the ws .
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Old 08-01-2018, 05:32 AM
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Rear window regulators bend binding the motor Up, their is a fix with welding that can be performed.
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  #5  
Old 08-01-2018, 07:12 AM
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I have an '83 300CD that I have been daily-driving for 6 years. You are correct irt charm. There is nothing else I want to drive and that includes my 2008.

- rust: Check your side wells in the trunk. Pull the plastic insert to look under. Also
check under battery. None of this is a show stopper but should be fixed.

- fuel gauge: Probably sender. Accessible under the First Aid box well.

- rear window: If window does not operate from local switch either, probably lift
mechanism. Do-able DIY but not simple. Mine is same on one side and
I elected to not fix it.

- cracked dash: One of those hard plastic form-fitting covers worked for me.

- headliner spots: Possibly rust in the rear windshield channel. I had mine fixed for
about $350 + $200 R&R windshield by a glass shop and a new
gasket. Have a GOOD glass shop do the R&R. Those rear
windshields are rare and expensive.

- trim: I would fix it low priority. Replacement pieces available on ebay.

- wheel stance: ?. Take it to the alignment shop. Plenty of parts available if needed.

- rubber trim: Very expensive if aftermarket, heart-stoppingly expensive if OE. I have
replaced some and elected to live with the wind noise for others.

Great cars. That one looks excellent in the pix. I would be suspicious of that low mileage unless there is a good explanation. Mine has 347000 and has been driven on a number of 1000 mile-plus trips so far.

My advice is to fix whatever hurts your soul then drive it. If you try to "restore" it, it will make you a poor man.
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  #6  
Old 08-01-2018, 08:01 AM
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Great advise and sound input - thank you!

To be clear, I haven’t quite committed to the purchase yet. Still doing my due diligence and making sure I have my expectations and potential costs budgeted. I plan to hold long, manage some maintenance myself, and drive on weekends.

I’m used to fixing (still fixing!) and maintaining an old Range Rover with its spontaneous electronic issues, old air suspension, and brittle plastic interior. But it’s been reliable, and with plenty of donor parts available, the maintenance and cosmetic fixes have been an enjoyable experience and DIY.

Regarding the 300CD, my gut says if I wait, I MIGHT find another black/black with documentations for a premium cost. Or I can take the risk in its current honest condition and take it step by step.

Anyone else getting a sense that this is “too good to be true” or maybe my own perception of its rarity is skewing my perspective...

It’s been helpful already typing all these points out!

Last edited by davebenz; 08-01-2018 at 08:14 AM.
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  #7  
Old 08-01-2018, 10:36 AM
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It is not "too good to be true" but it is rare. As I recall only about 7200 Diesel W123 coupes were ever produced. To also find one in the color combination you want is even more rare.

As I perceive where your head is I would buy it assuming the unstated price is not outrageous. Just be aware that you will have some fun DIYing it and it will never be as came from the factory. The mechanics are same as sedans except for some very minor differences such as the length of the sunroof cable. Body and glass are peculiar to the coupe but they are around. I had my windshield replaced.

Buy it and give us a report in a year.
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  #8  
Old 08-01-2018, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davebenz View Post
...........................
I’m used to fixing (still fixing!) and maintaining an old Range Rover with its spontaneous electronic issues, old air suspension, and brittle plastic interior. But it’s been reliable, and with plenty of donor parts available, the maintenance and cosmetic fixes have been an enjoyable experience and DIY.
................................

I had a Range Rover, and I am glad I don't have it anymore. It suffered from the same ailments as yours, and maybe more. If you can handle the Range Rover, you are more than qualified to DIY on a 'Benz.......Rich
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  #9  
Old 08-01-2018, 11:57 AM
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I would say the decision depends on the price to a great degree. If it is priced decently for what it is the car might be gone before you decide.

A check by a competent mechanic familiar with these cars is money well spent. He may or may not find enough things to negotiate the price lower. Or you know what you are getting into better.

Tragically I never believe the claimed overall millage on these cars with very few exceptions. The presence of the factory provided oil change book in the dash is always a good thing to indicate a general ideal. When it is missing raises a flag to a certain extent. Especially on the ones like this that claim low overall millage.

A lot of mechanics also jot down work they have done to the car in them as well and when is indicated. That to me is the number one reason owners keep them. If they have exceeded the millage in the book. Or to prove oil changes where preformed when they should have been up to the milage limits in the book. One hundred thousand miles or perhaps a little more is provided for in them. Although I cannot remember the exact amount of milage at the moment they provide for.

Things like screwing down the trim rather than repairing it properly show a lack of caring at least in my mind at some point. As mentioned these cars are scarce and I expect the values will rise with time if they are maintained properly.

As usual unfortunately I take the claimed milage with a grain of salt. Unless real substantial proof exists. Did you examine it for a repaint? All too much depends on the price you are looking at. These are just my opinions though.

On the other hand a lower millage coupe in pretty much pristine condition commands real money today. A person also has to keep in mind that many people have to pay to have repairs done.

This takes cars with some issues out of their interest. Todays costs are just too high for paid for work on older cars. Doing it yourself is the only practical approach usually.

I am no different than many. When we want to buy something and especially used cars. Many of us wear rose colored glasses. For me it took many years just to learn to throw them away. A coupe of this type is worth from 1k to perhaps even fifteen K in my mind. Depending on the condition of the car. Below a certain condition it will cost more to get them into good condition than a more expensive one will cost. Because many parts are both scarce and expensive they may need. Plus my time is worth something. When one is at the needs restoration in general you have to really think about it.

Also prices vary by region to a certain if not substantial degree. At least you have found no rust basically in it. If it is not a repaint that is also a good thing. I think the minor rusting in the fender lips was created by a set of those chrome fender flare screws. That have been removed .

Last edited by barry12345; 08-01-2018 at 12:25 PM.
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  #10  
Old 08-02-2018, 11:57 AM
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Great insight Barry!

I was able to track down some additional car history online and feel confident in the car and it's mileage (odometer off ~10-15k miles), which was my biggest concern. It's original location (PNW) also supports the cars condition.

It's interesting to pull together a car's story piece by piece through wear and tear and some internet research. The chase is half the fun, maybe more!

If I acquire the car I'll be sure to keep the forums posted!

Great discussion - thanks everyone!
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Old 08-02-2018, 12:18 PM
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Mileage is NOT the greatest concern. Noting systems that need attention and whether you can repair or will farm the job out should be the concern. Next would be parts cost and availability.
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  #12  
Old 08-02-2018, 01:11 PM
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I have a vacuformed cover and a W123 dash with minimal cracking if you're interested.
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Old 08-02-2018, 07:45 PM
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Looks like a decent car to me too, I'm on my third Diesel Coupe and loving it in spite of 427,XXX documented miles .

Black ones are hard to find for sure .

There was a nice yellow one on craigslist last week in S.F. for $5K IIRC, I'd not pay that much for this one though .
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  #14  
Old 08-02-2018, 09:04 PM
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The trim popped because the glue gave up, and unless you strip off the old adhesive and redo, it will never stick injecting glue. Thus the scews. Better than busted trim.
If it runs well and drives right, it's all price and your willingness to go there.
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  #15  
Old 08-02-2018, 09:24 PM
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On the one hand, I'd be very comfortable with the car in this state. OTH, I've been working with these cars for the better part of three decades. Your joy will be a direct function of how much time you'd like to spend bonding with this machine. If you can put in the time, it will reward you with hundreds of thousands of miles of reliable fun.

The most serious of the problems you've described is the rubber...other than maybe the windshield, pretty much all of it is unique to the CD, and can be hard to find.

The dash wood has peculiar construction...it's wood laminated onto metal, and adhered to the dash with a foam/glue strip. when the glue dries out, they pop off and repairing them the right way...removing the entire piece, removing the old glue strip and reinstalling...is tedious and messy work. But now those bits are ruined. So you'll have to price out new pieces.

It certainly needs a wheel alignment, and may need new springs.

Uncracked dashes may be hard to find, but you can get a Coverlay, which is a plastic cap that comes in matching colors.

Rear window hardware is unique to the CD. Hopefully a spot of grease will do it. But if it can't be fixed, you'll have to hunt up a new regulator.

The fuel gauge is likely to be the sender, but it could also be the gauge. It should be an afternoon's finagle either way.

Be aware that although these are mechanically identical to 300D's, virtually all the body parts from the firewall back are unique. This is true of the seats, so make sure there are no broken springs in the bottoms.

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