With 3/4 camber on one side and 0on the other, you will be getting " camber lead " this tends to pull the car in the direction of the higher camber. ( On the LF, if the camber is negative / inside edge with more pressure, the car will pull to the right )

Some toe out typically used on race cars for better turn in as it generates some artificial Ackerman for better turn in. However, it is unstable because when a LF tire in a right turn loses grip, the car starts to slide to the left but the still gripping RF snaps the car to the right. Given traction is never constant, the car is nervous to drive.

With proper or slightly excessive toe in, if the LF loses grip in a right turn, the car will start to slide to the left and the still gripping RF will further pull the car to the left. This is much more stable than toe out because the slide is in the same direction rather than the L , center , R transition of toe out.

Those people who tell you to use a tape probably have never done it before and just repeats what they've heard.

What you need is a light and stiff caliper that can span the width (track) of the front tires. The best material I've found is easy to come by. The vertical section of a screen door plus some aluminum strips, screws, thumbtack and glue holds it together. Here's a pic of one end of the caliper. It should be self explanatory how it works. Under the masking tape is a thumbtack with points sharpened so it can prick the tire and stay put horizontally on both tires. I have a piece of cork and tape to cover up the sharp point so I do not prick myself handling it when not in use.

I like to put a piece of masking tape on the tire before marking it then circle the prick mark with a pen to make it easy to find after rolling the car .

Edit: I get repeatable results with this DIY caliper. I estimate accuracy of +/- 0.002 "

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

A lot of good info here .

Toe measuring sticks are not expen$ve and are the very best as they measure from the center of the tread and so are not bothered by out of spec. wheels, belt or wobbly wheels are much more common than most realize .

I lay a stripe of something on the center of the tread as I roll the jacked up wheel then use a screw driver to scribe a line dead center , measure from that after rolling the wheels 180 degrees as mentioned previously .

Zero or 1/16 toe seems to work for me, if there's any slop / play in the front end you may want up to 1/8" toe in .

Agreed, I've seen lots of tires ruined in short order from improper toe as too much either way causes the tires to scrub sideways....

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better