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  #31  
Old 08-27-2018, 09:05 AM
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Here are the lines in the engine compartiment.



Which direction does this check valve go?



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  #32  
Old 08-27-2018, 01:50 PM
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You can tell by applying vacuum to one end of the Check valve (actually you can simply suck on one end) of the valve. The end that you can suck through is the end that goes towards the Vacuum Pump.

If you are speaking of the Door Lock line your check valve may have 2 nipples. the double nipples go towards the fire wall.

In the pic with the Engne that check valve attached to the yellow lines is not the regular check valve. At least it does not look like the one on mine.
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  #33  
Old 08-27-2018, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
You can tell by applying vacuum to one end of the Check valve (actually you can simply suck on one end) of the valve. The end that you can suck through is the end that goes towards the Vacuum Pump.

If you are speaking of the Door Lock line your check valve may have 2 nipples. the double nipples go towards the fire wall.

In the pic with the Engne that check valve attached to the yellow lines is not the regular check valve. At least it does not look like the one on mine.
It has been replaced since the oem was broken.

Anyhow I managed to open the trunk and I removed the lines going to the actuator (looped). I also removed the trim where you can open in emergency.

I slammed it back and it won't open anymore. Anyway going to do it with a bamboo stick.
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  #34  
Old 08-27-2018, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jsp300D View Post
It has been replaced since the oem was broken.

Anyhow I managed to open the trunk and I removed the lines going to the actuator (looped). I also removed the trim where you can open in emergency.

I slammed it back and it won't open anymore. Anyway going to do it with a bamboo stick.
How did you do that?
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  #35  
Old 08-28-2018, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
How did you do that?
sucking on the red marked line from the door switch. Now I need the bamboo stick.
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  #36  
Old 08-28-2018, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jsp300D View Post
I slammed it back and it won't open anymore.

The real question is, . . . . why did you get the trunk open then slam it closed and now you apparently can't get it open again.
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  #37  
Old 08-29-2018, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jsp300D View Post
sucking on the red marked line from the door switch. Now I need the bamboo stick.
If you plan to remove the First Aid Kit and go inside with a stick to push the Trunk Lock Linkages you have to remove the Plastic Cover inside of the trunk to see the linkages.

The attached picture shows the cover removed and what you will see with the cover off. You need to push the linkages in the direction of the arrow and hold it that direction while someone else presses the Trunk Lock Button.

Is English your normal language or is it a 2nd language that you learned?

Note you said " I removed the lines going to the actuator (looped)" I think it would be a good idea to hook those lines back up since when they were connected you could at least suck on the line and get the trunk to open.

Without the ability of the vacuum actuator to move the linkages to the unlocked position your trunk will remain locked when you close it. That because in the position your trunk lock is in right now it is always going to lock the trunk when you close it.

If the plastic cover is still over the hole the linkages are in you will need to put some sort of hook on your stick to pull it off.
Attached Thumbnails
w123 300d trunk wont open-trunk-lock-linkages.jpg  
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  #38  
Old 08-29-2018, 05:28 PM
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you can't own one of these cars and not have a 25 dollar hand vacuum pump (mityvac or off brand) without going bonkers. Just get one! Trust me, within one year, another door actuator, or some other thing will stop working and you will need to track it down. You'll faint or have an aneurism if you try to chase leaks with your mouth and lungs.
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  #39  
Old 08-30-2018, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
If you plan to remove the First Aid Kit and go inside with a stick to push the Trunk Lock Linkages you have to remove the Plastic Cover inside of the trunk to see the linkages.

The attached picture shows the cover removed and what you will see with the cover off. You need to push the linkages in the direction of the arrow and hold it that direction while someone else presses the Trunk Lock Button.

Is English your normal language or is it a 2nd language that you learned?

Note you said " I removed the lines going to the actuator (looped)" I think it would be a good idea to hook those lines back up since when they were connected you could at least suck on the line and get the trunk to open.

Without the ability of the vacuum actuator to move the linkages to the unlocked position your trunk will remain locked when you close it. That because in the position your trunk lock is in right now it is always going to lock the trunk when you close it.

If the plastic cover is still over the hole the linkages are in you will need to put some sort of hook on your stick to pull it off.
Thanks for the reply. I did leave the trim off with the X on it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kuene View Post
you can't own one of these cars and not have a 25 dollar hand vacuum pump (mityvac or off brand) without going bonkers. Just get one! Trust me, within one year, another door actuator, or some other thing will stop working and you will need to track it down. You'll faint or have an aneurism if you try to chase leaks with your mouth and lungs.
Post is soo slow sometimes here but, the vacuum hand pump has arrived yesterday. I am thinking replacing all of it so I can clear this headache.
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  #40  
Old 08-31-2018, 01:29 PM
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When I got the Car it came without the key for the Trunk. I got tired of dealing with the Vacuum System and I bought a used set of Locks and Keys for a W123 (on eBay) and it of course had another Trunk Lock and Tumbler with a Key and I replaced the old one with that.

Over here in the US a New Trunk Lock with keys that only fit that lock is about $75 from Mercedes.
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  #41  
Old 09-18-2018, 06:54 PM
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Can't I remove the rear light from outside to access?
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  #42  
Old 09-18-2018, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jsp300D View Post


Can't I remove the rear light from outside to access?
Yes you can, but only with a hammer
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  #43  
Old 09-18-2018, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
Yes you can, but only with a hammer
Ok will pry off since mine is cracked and leaking.
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  #44  
Old 09-19-2018, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jsp300D View Post
Ok will pry off since mine is cracked and leaking.
I had to get in the trunk of my SD years ago. I had a spare set of tail lights, so I busted out the worst looking one and was able to open the trunk. On a different W123, I was able to get a 10mm wrench between the weatherstrip and the latch, and unscrew the two screws.
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  #45  
Old 10-17-2018, 08:09 PM
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I broke the rear left light as I needed to replace it. It was full of cracks. I managed to open it through breaking in.


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