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  #46  
Old 02-11-2019, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
If the wheel/s were from 2004 or newer (2003 could be from a w210), can I assume they will work anyway?
Going from memory, W203, W209, R171 maybe a few others still used M12 wheels and bolts up to 2009 or 2010.

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  #47  
Old 02-11-2019, 11:36 AM
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Wheels from a 2004-2009 W211 should all be interchangeable, AFAIK. You could always check the part number (and width/offset) stamped on the back side of the wheel. I'm assuming OE MB wheels, btw, not aftermarket.

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  #48  
Old 02-11-2019, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
Wheels from a 2004-2009 W211 should all be interchangeable, AFAIK. You could always check the part number (and width/offset) stamped on the back side of the wheel. I'm assuming OE MB wheels, btw, not aftermarket.

The wheels in question are from an S class (not sure of the year). Yes I am aware that W211 wheels will work (actually 2003-newer), but I have not found too many 18" wheels from a W211. One guy has several sets from an S class, but he said I might need spacers or adapters for them to work on a W211. Others have said they should work as they are. I just need to know before driving a long distance to purchase a set......Rich
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  #49  
Old 02-11-2019, 12:42 PM
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You need to know the offset. If you cannot find the specs., then just lay a board across the inside of the wheel, and measure to the mounting surface on the set you have and the set you are looking to buy. If they are real close, it's good.

I used a set off of a W126 to mount snows for my W210. Same offset.
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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
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1998 SLK230 (teal)
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1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #50  
Old 02-11-2019, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
The wheels in question are from an S class (not sure of the year). Yes I am aware that W211 wheels will work (actually 2003-newer), but I have not found too many 18" wheels from a W211. One guy has several sets from an S class, but he said I might need spacers or adapters for them to work on a W211. Others have said they should work as they are. I just need to know before driving a long distance to purchase a set......Rich
As noted above, you need to know the offset... AND also the width. The two go together, you cannot just get an offset number. If buying any S-class wheels for a W211, simply ask the seller to take a photo of the back of the wheel where the size/offset is stamped. Or at least have them tell you what the numbers are.

Never, ever, ever accept "...they fit fine on this year/model and my best friend's sister's boyfriend's brother's girlfriend hear from this guy who knows this kid who's going with the girl that said they'll work great on a W211."

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  #51  
Old 02-11-2019, 10:50 PM
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Thumbs up

+1 what GSXR said.
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  #52  
Old 02-12-2019, 01:04 PM
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Yes, it's all about the offset. The "ET" number stamped on the inside of the rim signifies how many mm the bolt surface is from the center of the wheel.


My bundts on my 83 had ET30, I found a set of wheels from newer C class that were ET41 that I wanted to put on. I purchased a 12mm spacer (close enough...they don't sell 11mm) and 12mm longer bolts, and it's worked great for 10 years now and 100k miles.
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  #53  
Old 02-12-2019, 01:08 PM
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...and BTW, congrats on the CDI score. Needless to say I'm a CDI fan.
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  #54  
Old 02-12-2019, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by spark3542 View Post
.... Needless to say I'm a CDI fan.
Glad you told me, it is pretty hard to tell
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  #55  
Old 02-12-2019, 07:05 PM
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Exclamation PING !

Rich ;

Please check your PM inbox, reply by E-Mail .

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  #56  
Old 02-12-2019, 10:07 PM
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Nice score!
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  #57  
Old 04-10-2019, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
Just for accuracy, a salvage title is what one gets when a car is deemed damaged beyond economical retail repair by an insurance company.

A reconstructed title is what one gets once the car has been repaired and inspected.

The public tends to run away from " R " title cars depressing market value. However, they can be a good value to someone that knows the cars, what to look for and is going to run the car until it is junk.

Regardless, you might be able to determine when the car was crashed and repaired by looking at issue dates. The DMV might be able to offer a history as well.
I am a newb, but always wanted an old Mercedes. I am looking at a 1976 W115 and looking to pull the trigger. Current owner says it has a reconstructed title due to the fact when the original owner received the tile it said "mercury" instead of Mercedes. Does this sound even remotely possible?? Wondering if I should even waste my time. Any thoughts would be appreciated
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  #58  
Old 04-10-2019, 09:42 AM
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A reconstructed title isn't always a bad thing if the car is actually good.

Do they have proof of the error / correction? Is the title currently in the sellers name? The VIN number determines what a car is so I doubt their story is true or the seller is just repeating what the previous owner told them. There is a mechanism for correcting title errors and I've never seen the title being branded after a correction. Most states should have titling rules on their web site, have a look there for rules.

Most titles have a number that determines how many times the car was titled in that state, see if you can track that down. Also look for a date that shows when the car was originally titled in your state and if it came from another state.

Always have a good mechanic look at the car, nothing beats an in person inspection. Car fax and the like are useless other than a semi accurate mileage trail and are really just a shake down of car lots. RE: If a lot doesn't pay $ 1,500 a month to subscribe , they are hiding something. ( This is the actual cost for a larger lot )

Many older cars get hit with a salvage / reconstructed title for minor damage. I had a customer whose 15 ish year old full size Pontiac got " totaled " by a run away shopping cart. It got hit in a rear quarter between the rear wheel and bumper. Thing is the car still would have passed state safety inspection.

Sometimes titles for older cars get lost / owner can't be located / car is abandoned. Many times getting a reconstructed title is the only way to get a title.
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  #59  
Old 01-12-2020, 06:03 PM
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Yesterday I was working on my niece's CDI= "Black Death" has reared it's ugly head again.
when my friend Jeremy (bought the $1,500 CDI from his father Dave= post #31 this thread) called and said his CDI lost power, went into limp mode, and was making a "loud hissing noise". I told him to find a way to remove the plastic engine covers and have a look. He limped the car to an auto parts store and bought a T30 to remove the covers. He texted me back a video of #2 injector spitting out Diesel vapor ( what are the chances that a friend's CDI has the same problem as one I was working on at that exact time?). He had the car towed home, and I went there this morning to inspect it and take a photo. Sure enough, #2 and possibly #3 have catastrophic injector seal failure. We are not talking the gradual release of compression gasses that create the "Black Death" over time, but a hole large enough that it sounds like the injector or glow plug was removed, and the engine started. If I could upload the video, I would. It is pretty impressive. Jeremy will order the parts, and we will fix it together......Rich
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My new (to me) alt=,500 '05 E320 CDI-20200112_091739.jpg  
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  #60  
Old 01-26-2020, 08:53 PM
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After a good cleaning (first photo), we got five of the injectors out. Seal for #2 was very bad (second photo). Number 1 does not want to come out. We replaced the other five injector seals, and put it all back together so the car could be driven. I told Jeremy to get the car warmed up good, and take it for a drive so the injector would come out easier with a hot engine. Jeremy and his friend were trying to get the injector to turn by prying it with a big screwdriver, and broke the head cover. The injector will still not come out, so he is going to make up a fixture with two bottle jacks and some steel plate (suggested method on here and youtube). A new cover is around $200, so we may try to have it repaired (welded). More photos on the way......Rich
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My new (to me) alt=,500 '05 E320 CDI-20200124_132535.jpg   My new (to me) alt=,500 '05 E320 CDI-20200124_122819.jpg  

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