Rusty Delivery Valves
 

I'm betting you'll need to do a serious Diesel purge to get rid of all that occluded fuel in the wells .

I ran into this in one of my OM617's, I replaced all the DV's with new from the M-B Classic Center (don't forget to buy NEW SPRINGS TOO !) and it helped a lot but after a while (close to 5,000 miles) I opened up the IP again and still had occluded fuel in the wells so I gave up and bought a rebuilt IP, now the car runs *so* much better and NO BLACK SMOKE ! .

You may be discovering a DPO problem of poor or lack of proper maintenance .

Its had a couple of diesel purges, return line came through clear. Fuel may look opaque but reflection is probably not helping, just waiting for rain to clear finishing off.

The rust looking area is on top of the plunger which fortunately doesn't seat on anything, the aera when DV holder rests when in position is mirror finish (still).

Job done, good news - no more wobble, took it out twice just to make sure it didn't come back after a run.

What's really noticable apart from above, is how smooth and responsive it is, picks up really well, starts on the button too.

If you are doing the DV seals may as well do the job, good investment - if anyone needs these I can put you in touch with dieselmeken, very helpful and good prices as well - 6 valves and holders plus full gasket kit about 100 euros (that was shipped to UK from Sweden)

Oh wow, get me in touch now, I'll buy some immediately! How difficult are they to replace?

There's not much to it, need an accurate torque wrench, pair of angled tweezers and that's about it.

Follow Parrots 'how to' for DV's seals where he does the job, he didn't replace the holders as above but still removed them for inspection.

Send me your email address, will forward on.

Couple of tips, clamp both the return and feed hose - this prevents lots of cranking, engine should fire quickly.

When DV are torqued down top off the holder with diesel or WD40, again gives almost instant start.

I never would of thought of clamping the hoses, you mean the hoses to the IP?

Yup, you need to pop inlet manifold for access, once off you can easy get to the rubber pipes where they meet at bulk-head.

Just replied to PM

It's an excellent tip, actually.

I figured this one out after servicing my pump once and spending an hour getting all of the air of out.