Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 08-26-2018, 12:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: college station, texas
Posts: 62
Does anyone know the part number for the oil cooler hoses or where I can buy them? Peach Parts no longer stocks them. Thanks, Bob Smits
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 08-26-2018, 04:12 PM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,179
Just take off the rubber parts, and have a shop weld on an fittings. No more leaks.

You can also cut out the crimp collar, and replace the rubber with high quality high temp oil pressure hose.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 08-26-2018, 05:33 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,876
Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
Just take off the rubber parts, and have a shop weld on an fittings. No more leaks.

You can also cut out the crimp collar, and replace the rubber with high quality high temp oil pressure hose.
X2. I use #12 A/C hose, and it works great. I have the hose and crimper, but any hose shop can do the job with hydraulic hose. You can also cut the sleeves off with the hard lines in situ, and use quality A/C type hose clamps. I have done it this way several times. One of the first cars I did it on years ago is still on the road.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 08-26-2018, 10:07 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: college station, texas
Posts: 62
Thanks again for all the information. I will feel better driving down the road with new hoses. Bob Smits
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 08-27-2018, 12:40 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Barrington, RI
Posts: 5,389
Quote:
Originally Posted by Father Of Giants View Post
Woah wait 10k miles on an old diesel? Maybe if an oil analysis says it's ok.
I never actually make it that far...this morning changed it after 14 months and 5500 miles.
__________________
06 E320 CDI "Benson", Platinum Blue, 173k mi, DD
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 127k mi, other DD
98 E300 "Murray", Silver, 125k mi, Stage 2 Rocketchip chip tuned, son's DD

Twelve other MB's owned and sold
2002 Honda Odyssey 237k mi (want to name it "Homer," wife won't let me)
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 08-27-2018, 07:06 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: college station, texas
Posts: 62
VSTech, I would like to replace the hoses in the car without removing the solid lines. Any tips would be appreciated. What are AC Type hose clamps? Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 08-27-2018, 08:20 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,876
Quote:
Originally Posted by cad58y View Post
VSTech, I would like to replace the hoses in the car without removing the solid lines. Any tips would be appreciated. What are AC Type hose clamps? Thanks
I use a "whiz wheel" (cutoff tool) to cut the sleeves. The sleeves on the elbows can be done off the car. I have used heavy duty worm gear clamps (for A/C hose) and 5/8 hydraulic hose.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 09-02-2018, 10:13 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Oberlin, OH
Posts: 471
Quote:
Originally Posted by OM617YOTA View Post
I remember that sale, I stocked up as well. Was only ~12 gallons or so in the area I was willing to drive around to, but I bought it all and would happily do so again.
I bought a bunch too and then later swapped for 0w40 m1. That can be used in the newer (non-dpf) engines as well!
__________________
-- Chris

'95 E300, 216k miles, Silver Surfer
'05 E320 CDI, 138k miles
'07 S550 4matic, 69k miles

Gone but not forgotten:

'76 300D, 350k miles?, SOLD in 1995
'75 240D, 300k miles, SOLD in 1991
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 09-02-2018, 11:13 AM
CDTurbo001's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Campbellsville, KY
Posts: 127
Preface: I've been running a synthetic 5w40 (Schaeffer's) in my car for the last year/7,000? miles, and it showed signs of leaking when I got it but doesn't leave any drips. I've also done multiple oil changes on 3 other 617's with Rotella T6 or Schaeffer's 5/40 and none have started gushing like some swear they're bound to do.

No downside to 5w40 unless your engine is in poor enough shape that the dirt helping the seals do their job gets washed out by the better cleaning properties of synthetic. And for a car driven regularly at all, in anything but all-city driving, intervals can be safely extended from 3K to 5K, or further depending on oil analysis results.
__________________
'82 300CD
"Pearl", the very first turbo diesel 123 coupe
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 09-02-2018, 11:17 AM
vwnate1's Avatar
Diesel Dandy
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
Posts: 3,295
Post Synthetic Oils & Weeps/Seeps

I've only had valve cover and oil caps weeps get worse but it's maddening to try and keep the engine spiffy clean when driving 500 ~ 800 miles every seven days .

Thinner oils seem to burn slightly faster too .
__________________
-Nate
1982 240D creampuff 370,000 miles
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 428,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Moto R60/6 Barn Find, 8,000miles
1959 VW #113 Deuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk, Rust
Arthritis, Crushed Spine,Broken Neck&Back
Memories &Peace Of Mind
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 09-02-2018, 08:05 PM
Mad Scientist
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,379
My engine really cranks faster at 15 degrees when cold starting on 5w40, oil pressure comes up sooner and doesn't seem to go as high during that first cold startup. I only put ~5k miles/yr on the truck so it's 5w40 year round. If I ran enough miles to do different summer and winter oils, I'd have no problem running the less expensive 15w40 during the summer.
__________________
617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 44k miles on swap
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 09-03-2018, 10:18 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,361
Quote:
Originally Posted by cad58y View Post
My reason for going to the Mobile 1 is that a jobber friend gave me about 50 gal of outdated oil so the price is right. I do NOT plan to extend the change interval past 5K. If you want the best synthetic use Amsoil in my opinion. If you are driving a high horsepower gasoline muscle car use their Z-Rod which has higher ZPPD. Thanks for all of the replies. At 90K I have changed every hose except the oil cooler lines which look fine. My 87 300SDL went 386K on the original oil cooler hoses because I didn't know any better. I would still be driving it today if I hadn't stumbled on this 86 300 SDL with 65K milage. It still had the fiberglass underbelly pan in place.




Outdated new engine oil? Any ideal of what deteriorates or changes with time in storage? Dino oil does not in general I believe but the additives may for all I know. Maybe this is a consideration with holding synthetic oils longer term?

Why I post this? Just last week when buying oil for the wives car. I noticed the chain had mobile I on clearance. Normally that chain has a few oils on sale anyways and still did.

Never on clearance to the best of my recollection though. Just seemed odd to me at the time. Then your post appeared.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 09-03-2018, 10:46 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,361
Quote:
Originally Posted by cad58y View Post
Does anyone know the part number for the oil cooler hoses or where I can buy them? Peach Parts no longer stocks them. Thanks, Bob Smits


Since they are no longer available from peach parts. Replacement oil cooler hoses for the turbo charged 123 cars. Are available manufactured by the same firm that did the originals in Germany. Ken has had them specifically remade for him to sell. The normal aftermarket one are a poor fit apparently in comparison.


Nothing really wrong that I can think of in substituting a replacement effort locally. As long as you incorporate safety wires so they just cannot blow off. Clamps alone do not turn my crank. Even the original hoses fittings have barbs to help in the hose retention. As the clamping action of the hydraulic fitting loosened with deterioration of the hose medium. Clamps lack these.


I am a little anal as the loss of an oil cooler hose in service is pretty serious in consequence for these engines usually. Safety wires can save the day but few use them. The rubber coating rots with time is just the nature of rubber. Faster with running at elevated temperatures as in this application.


I have in my now longer lifetime have seen just too many simply clamped hoses blow off to ignore the situation as a potential possibility. Safety wires are not a cost issue. So I see no sound reason not to incorporate them. An occasional check to make sure a hose is not being abraided by the vee belt as the motor mount sags is also not a total waste of time either.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:12 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page