Mobile 5-40 truck diesel - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

cad58y · #16 08-26-2018, 12:24 PM

Does anyone know the part number for the oil cooler hoses or where I can buy them? Peach Parts no longer stocks them. Thanks, Bob Smits

vstech · #17 08-26-2018, 04:12 PM

Just take off the rubber parts, and have a shop weld on an fittings. No more leaks.

You can also cut out the crimp collar, and replace the rubber with high quality high temp oil pressure hose.

ROLLGUY · #18 08-26-2018, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Just take off the rubber parts, and have a shop weld on an fittings. No more leaks.

You can also cut out the crimp collar, and replace the rubber with high quality high temp oil pressure hose.

X2. I use #12 A/C hose, and it works great. I have the hose and crimper, but any hose shop can do the job with hydraulic hose. You can also cut the sleeves off with the hard lines in situ, and use quality A/C type hose clamps. I have done it this way several times. One of the first cars I did it on years ago is still on the road.

cad58y · #19 08-26-2018, 10:07 PM

Thanks again for all the information. I will feel better driving down the road with new hoses. Bob Smits

shertex · #20 08-27-2018, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Father Of Giants

Woah wait 10k miles on an old diesel? Maybe if an oil analysis says it's ok.

I never actually make it that far...this morning changed it after 14 months and 5500 miles.

cad58y · #21 08-27-2018, 07:06 PM

VSTech, I would like to replace the hoses in the car without removing the solid lines. Any tips would be appreciated. What are AC Type hose clamps? Thanks

ROLLGUY · #22 08-27-2018, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cad58y

VSTech, I would like to replace the hoses in the car without removing the solid lines. Any tips would be appreciated. What are AC Type hose clamps? Thanks

I use a "whiz wheel" (cutoff tool) to cut the sleeves. The sleeves on the elbows can be done off the car. I have used heavy duty worm gear clamps (for A/C hose) and 5/8 hydraulic hose.

chronometers · #23 09-02-2018, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

I remember that sale, I stocked up as well. Was only ~12 gallons or so in the area I was willing to drive around to, but I bought it all and would happily do so again.

I bought a bunch too and then later swapped for 0w40 m1. That can be used in the newer (non-dpf) engines as well!

CDTurbo001 · #24 09-02-2018, 11:13 AM

Preface: I've been running a synthetic 5w40 (Schaeffer's) in my car for the last year/7,000? miles, and it showed signs of leaking when I got it but doesn't leave any drips. I've also done multiple oil changes on 3 other 617's with Rotella T6 or Schaeffer's 5/40 and none have started gushing like some swear they're bound to do.

No downside to 5w40 unless your engine is in poor enough shape that the dirt helping the seals do their job gets washed out by the better cleaning properties of synthetic. And for a car driven regularly at all, in anything but all-city driving, intervals can be safely extended from 3K to 5K, or further depending on oil analysis results.

vwnate1 · #25 09-02-2018, 11:17 AM

I've only had valve cover and oil caps weeps get worse but it's maddening to try and keep the engine spiffy clean when driving 500 ~ 800 miles every seven days .

Thinner oils seem to burn slightly faster too .

OM617YOTA · #26 09-02-2018, 08:05 PM

My engine really cranks faster at 15 degrees when cold starting on 5w40, oil pressure comes up sooner and doesn't seem to go as high during that first cold startup. I only put ~5k miles/yr on the truck so it's 5w40 year round. If I ran enough miles to do different summer and winter oils, I'd have no problem running the less expensive 15w40 during the summer.

barry12345 · #27 09-03-2018, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cad58y

My reason for going to the Mobile 1 is that a jobber friend gave me about 50 gal of outdated oil so the price is right. I do NOT plan to extend the change interval past 5K. If you want the best synthetic use Amsoil in my opinion. If you are driving a high horsepower gasoline muscle car use their Z-Rod which has higher ZPPD. Thanks for all of the replies. At 90K I have changed every hose except the oil cooler lines which look fine. My 87 300SDL went 386K on the original oil cooler hoses because I didn't know any better. I would still be driving it today if I hadn't stumbled on this 86 300 SDL with 65K milage. It still had the fiberglass underbelly pan in place.

Outdated new engine oil? Any ideal of what deteriorates or changes with time in storage? Dino oil does not in general I believe but the additives may for all I know. Maybe this is a consideration with holding synthetic oils longer term?

Why I post this? Just last week when buying oil for the wives car. I noticed the chain had mobile I on clearance. Normally that chain has a few oils on sale anyways and still did.

Never on clearance to the best of my recollection though. Just seemed odd to me at the time. Then your post appeared.

barry12345 · #28 09-03-2018, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cad58y

Does anyone know the part number for the oil cooler hoses or where I can buy them? Peach Parts no longer stocks them. Thanks, Bob Smits

Since they are no longer available from peach parts. Replacement oil cooler hoses for the turbo charged 123 cars. Are available manufactured by the same firm that did the originals in Germany. Ken has had them specifically remade for him to sell. The normal aftermarket one are a poor fit apparently in comparison.

Nothing really wrong that I can think of in substituting a replacement effort locally. As long as you incorporate safety wires so they just cannot blow off. Clamps alone do not turn my crank. Even the original hoses fittings have barbs to help in the hose retention. As the clamping action of the hydraulic fitting loosened with deterioration of the hose medium. Clamps lack these.

I am a little anal as the loss of an oil cooler hose in service is pretty serious in consequence for these engines usually. Safety wires can save the day but few use them. The rubber coating rots with time is just the nature of rubber. Faster with running at elevated temperatures as in this application.

I have in my now longer lifetime have seen just too many simply clamped hoses blow off to ignore the situation as a potential possibility. Safety wires are not a cost issue. So I see no sound reason not to incorporate them. An occasional check to make sure a hose is not being abraided by the vee belt as the motor mount sags is also not a total waste of time either.