Permission to Post OT Question
 

I'm having some difficulty with my 2006 Honda Pilot. The Piloteers.org forum has been zero help. Can I post my question here in hopes that I can get some advice that at least gets me on track for troubleshooting? FWIW, it's drivetrain related.

Many thanks,
Ben2k

That's one, is there another?

No reason why you can't but I would not expect a lot of help unless it is a very generic powertrain question.

Clemson88, I like the cut of your jib...

Short facts: 2006 Honda Pilot 2 wheel drive with 144,000 miles. Back in June, my wife noticed an occasional knock/pop when coming to a complete stop. You can feel it in the brake pedal. I can reproduce it by putting her in reverse, stopping, then putting in drive, then coming to a complete stop. The backing up and stopping sets the stage so to speak.

Summer hits. Hot as ballz. Can't really hear it over the AC. We got a cool saturday about a month ago, so I go through the routine with the windows down. Now I can hear a fair bit of driveline engagement noise when going from R to 1st (and vice versa)... unnervingly like my 124 sounded when the front flex disc was bad. Jacked the car up this weekend. Noise seems to emanate from the driver's side inner cv joint. Passenger's side inner CV is leaking grease... and seems to be making noise, but the other side is so much louder I can't tell.

Here are some vids...

Driver's side (yes, I say passenger side in the video, but it's the driver):
https://flic.kr/p/2afwaQq

Passenger side:
https://flic.kr/p/2afwauW

With the car on the ground, the driver's side inner cv will flex when going from 1st to R and vice versa. The can moves relative to the shaft about 1/8th of an inch. I can see the rubber boot twisting when it happens. Passenger side, I can't see that type of movement.

Initially, I'm thinking bad inner cv joint. But a good friend (a honda guy) says that sounds like noise in the front transfer case (transaxle). One I can fix, the other...?

Do y'all have any opinions?

Mods, if this is wholly inappropriate to post here, please delete.

Peace,
Ben2k

The vid stops and starts for me ( You tube works fine thought ).

Inner joints are usually a tri pod type not a 6 ball CV founder on the outer joint. Neither joint should have any rotational play relative to the axle shaft.

With the drivers side jacked up, hold the inner joint " can " from rotating then rotate the axle shaft / wheel. This eliminates any of the normal rotational play in the differential.

Given you can see the boot twist, I'd call the inner joint worn out.


HA ! Recently we had someone post sometimes arcane questions about : Weed wackers , garage door openers , AC systems and clothes washers. Your questions at least are automotive related.

Why would a 2WD Pilot have a transfer case?

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon

Beginning in 06 honda redesigned the transmission so that its output went to a separate gearbox that the half shafts mounted into. On the Pilot forums the term transfer case gets used. I think it should be called a transaxle... but whatever honda.

I keep coming back to the inner cv’s as the culprit too. At only $200 for a pair, it’s not too much gelt if it turns out they aren’t the culprit.

There's no way to tell where the sound originates in a video. It might not help but I'd find a good volunteer to twist the wheels while I used my trusty hose in the ear trick to try and localizes the origin of the sound.

At what mileage do these axles typically start causing problems? Are the transaxles subject to be a problem on this model? Have you drained the gear oil in the trans to check for signs metal wear?

Another thought, grab the inner CV can and try to move it up and down. I'm wondering if the differential bearings have failed and the boot flex you are seeing is the joint flexing in a normal manner and not in rotation.

Before you remove the shaft, measure the amount of plunge the inner joint has then , once you removed the axle shaft, move the shaft to that position. It will be apparent if the joint is worn out. The goal is to get the parts in the normal running position because if the joint is moved to a non worn position it can feel OK.

In any event, it is normal to have some rotational play / clicking inside the differential so take that into account. ( Transmission in park , one wheel stopped , other lifted and rotated. )