Need to rotate 617 diesel engine by hand - will these tools work? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Graham · #31 10-10-2018, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HuskyMan
So, question for the experts; will using a remote starter start the engine?

Quote:

Originally Posted by moon161

IME, yes. This is why I secure the e-stop in the stop position when using a remote starter for things other than starting the engine like bumping the motor over to adjust valves. Even then it's gotta be all the way down.

And it's easy to dislodge the vacuum line to the shutdown, happens if I do just about anything in the neighborhood.

In trying to pin down a noise I was getting when starting, I tested this.

With key off and using remote starter switch to spin engine, engine did start! It did it about three times before it would not start.

Probably enough fuel left in lines and engine was already warm.

Can't imagine engine starting by turning it over by hand, especially after letting it sit overnight so valves are cold for adjustment.

BillGrissom · #32 10-11-2018, 12:41 AM

I used to use a socket on the crankshaft nut, with just the right length 1/2" extender to fit the socket wrench between the pulleys and radiator shroud. For wrench, I used a long-handled ratcheting torque wrench from Harbor Freight. The socket would keep falling off the nut, making it tedious.

Much easier since I started using the p.s. pump bolt (27 mm long-handle wrench I recall, HF set). I move the washer jug to the side for room to swing the wrench. Doesn't ratchet, but pretty fast. I never had the belt slip. I keep mine tight, plus fairly new Goodyear gatorback or such, and the front of the engine is clean (after replacing the crank seal). My 1985 has >400 psig compression in all cyl, so sometimes have to wait for the air to leak past the ring gaps before continuing.

You almost have to use the p.s. bolt if doing delicate turns of the crank, such as when setting "start of injection" to the crank angle, and just thump the wrench with your palm to jog the crank 1 deg at a time.

barry12345 · #33 10-12-2018, 11:46 AM

Not a safety feature. Yet with no glow plug action when turning the engine by hand and the engine is cool. The probability of these particular diesels firing off is pretty much non existing.. At the same time I would not trust some of the modern diesels to this extent.

One tool I appreciate is the long breaker bars with a ratcheting feature. I just do not use them beyond common sense. They are not really designed to be anywhere as tough as a normal breaker bar.

A tool I like is my long 3/4 inch breaker bar with an impact grade reducer on it to half inch. As you age you are not as strong as you once where. Plus there is no flex or concern about destroying that breaker bar. I should buy an electric impact tool as for infrequent work using the air tools is too involved. My air line does not reach to where I am working for example at times.

It took too many years for those ratcheting breaker bar tools to appear on the scene in my opinion. Actually when I was young the tools on average where crude in comparison to so many today.

Although the physical amount needed with all the variations in fastenings today. Is also a world of difference.

Graham · #34 10-13-2018, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

_This_ ~ it's a simple thing, I don't like using the large Crescent wrench as over time it leaves tool marks on the nut,

Oops

Having grown up in a different part of the world, I thought I should use the US name for a ring spanner! But got it wrong!

Box end wrench? Ring spanner sounds better

OK, now I know - Crescent Wrench is an adjustable spanner. And I agree, I wouldn't use one of those on my PS nut

vwnate1 · #35 10-13-2018, 08:50 PM

Correct ~ we're not really sharp on the correct terminology in America sad to say .

I like to use an open end spanner but a slightly cranked ring spanner works well too and no slippage / tool marks .

strelnik · #36 10-15-2018, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocky raccoon

My prefered method is using the PS nut. Have done it this way many times. Have done it without removing the glow plugs although I remove them once/year to inspect or replace anyway and try to co-incide the jobs. Using a remote switch works o.k. but I have a vision of how difficult it is to change the starter on these cars.

I have never done it using the crank nut since I work alone. I may look into gwizzer's method next time.

IRT accidental engine starting, I don't think it can happen without the key turned since the fuel is cut off.

I have used the PS nut on my 240D cars all the time. Now that I bought a 300TD wagon, I can see how that works, but that guy needs a lot of TLC before I try to do anything on it.

HuskyMan · #37 10-17-2018, 05:21 PM

I'm thinking with the injectors removed, using the power steering nut should be fairly easy. I may go ahead and tighten the PS drive belt before trying it.......

JHZR2 · #38 10-17-2018, 08:22 PM

There should be minimal issue doing it with all injectors removed. No way would I rotate the engine against its compression by the PS pulley, but if there’s no compression, I wouldn’t be concerned.