This is on the 1984 300DT. Just instsalled new heat shields along with newish Monark Fuel Injectors. I forgot how to properly bleed the five metal fuel lines coming from the injection pump going to the five fuel injectors. What is the proper procedure?

Diesel Basics 101. Crack lines, pump primer handle until pressure built, crank engine over until nuts spit fuel. Retighten and start engine.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

You did pop test the injectors, check for leaks, and verify the spray pattern right?

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

A well known local diesel shop installed the new Monark injectors, properly lapped them and pop tested them. That said, I'm in the process of building my own diesel injector tester so I won't have to rely on third party testing; I'll be able to see it with my own eyes.

OK, after reviewing other threads it appears I need to loosen the nuts on all five injectors before cranking. Next, my battery is a little low so I am putting it on the charger for the night. I will retry this thing in the morning.

Have faith Husky. It will start if it ran before. Just takes a lot of pumping and cranking. No need to floor the accelerator. Give it some rest between sessions so you don't overheat your starter. The OM617 is basically self-purging if it is airtight.

I go through this every year when I pull the lines to check my glow plugs and adjust valves.

To get fuel to the injectors:

1) Disconnect the hard lines at the injectors (17 mm flare wrench), and loosen the nuts on the hard line brackets (8 mm wrenches).
2) Unplug the glow plug harness (to save battery charge).
3) Use the primer pump to purge the air from the clear plastic hard lines.
4) Crank 30-45 seconds, wait 10 minutes to let the starter cool off, repeat until fuel dribbles out of the rearmost metal hard line.
Be patient, and take your time...you don't want to fry your starter. (I watched some Netflix shows between the cranking sessions.)
5) Tighten the hard line fitting (17 mm) on the rearmost injector.
6) repeat step 4) and step 5) until each of the remaining injector hard lines are reconnected. They fill from the rear to the front (ie 4, 3, 2 and then 1).
7) Re-tighten the injector hard line brackets (8 mm).
8) Reconnect the glow plug harness.

Glow twice for 45 seconds, depress the accelerator pedal and crank the engine.
She should start right up.

__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

With all five lines loose at the injectors, my helper turned the starter for about 30 - 40 seconds.....I had a shop light so I could see easily.....after about 30 seconds of cranking I could see fuel coming from all five lines at the injectors. I then told my helper to turn the starter key off.

I then re-tightened all five lines lines at the injectors and rechecked and reattached two loose fuel return lines. The car then started right up! I immediately noticed on the drive this morning the engine seems to run more smoothly with the new Monark injectors.

Next step is to acquire new fuel return hose (the currently installed hoses are fairly old and are beginning to show signs of wear), more heat shield washers and the completion of a home made diesel injector tester.

Thanks to everyone who weighed in with advice and moral support. With help from everyone on this forum, I'm getting more confident in dealing with these cars........

Even though the battery is showing a full charge, to my ears the starter isn't spinning up as fast as it should. I'm wondering if I might need to install a new battery?

You really shouldn't have to do all of that. Just hit the hand primer about 100x's and crank for around 15 secons, and repeat. Cracking those lines will probably introduce just about the same amount of air.

The 2nd time of the above the ol' girl should fire up. You will or may hear a metalic clangng which is air in the lines. That will go away on its own after 50 miles or less. New or newer injectors are chatty for up to 500 miles until they settle down.

Greazzer's method is how I do it. Hook it all up, foot flat on the floor/WOT, crank at reasonable intervals until it starts. Doesn't take long, runs funky for a couple minutes.

__________________
617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Check into a starter. My SD would crank slow when cooler out, to the point it could not start with a fresh G49 battery, new glow plugs, lashed valves, etc. It just could not spin over fast enough.

Obviously clean the battery cables first.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]