The black crap is algae/asphalt from bad fuel and rubber deposits from the fuel lines. It doesn't hurt to flush it out but don't expect a diesel purge to fix your problems. You can treat the fuel with BioBor JF or Startron if you're concerned about algae/diesel bug.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Yes, it looks like coffee grounds and your engine cannot run properly with it anywhere in the fuel system .

It rarely wrecks the IP, that is done by water most often .

It's a simple thing to run the car low or out of fuel then add a gallon and drive it directly to a work place, jack up and safely block the rear end up and remove the fuel tank screen for easy cleaning with a toothbrush and soap, rinse dry with alcohol, re assemble, add a gallon of fresh clean Diesel fuel and drive to the filling station, add some Biobor JF (approved by Mercedes) , and drive it, every time you see the clear plastic intake screen get that black crud in it, it's another simple thing to remove it and blow the crud out, re install and motor on, in time the Biobor will kill off the fungus .

Wait until you've run two complete tankfuls through with -no- crud in the clear plastic intake screen then change the secondary spin on filter and if it still runs poorly and smokes, begin pop testing the injectors ~ the spray _must_ be a fine conical mist, no visible droplets and the injector proper must not dribble any fuel below the pop point .

It's all pretty simple and most BOSCH Diesel injection service stations will do the injector pop testing cheaply or free once you remove the injectors and hand carry them in.....

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Great advice. I would imagine it may have clogged an injector? The engine runs smooth around 2500 rpm but not so smooth below it. Time to get this done.

Practical advice, just remember : as long as you're seeing little black crud in the clear plastic intake screen, monies spent on injectors may be wasted.....

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

It's always interesting how these threads develop. Nowhere before this did you mention that your car was having other running problems other than just a rough cold start.


Injectors are a potential problem, but unless they're *SERIOUSLY* bad, they're unlikely to be the source of your 2500 RPM issues.


Time for compression/leakdown test. Remember, this is a "rod bender" engine, if you have mechanical problems, injectors are the least of your concern.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

I found the black fuel while doing the diesel purge 2xs which then showed the particles in the pre filter. when I did the purge the smoke cleared a lot while the motor ran on it. Yes I believe the rod bender is bent, just not 100% sure. If you actually read the posts I mentioned the motor may be hurt a few times. I'm full aware what this engine is. Mercedes swept this debacle off Google. You can hardly find any parts (factory upgrades for it) I would try to fix it
I like this car because its in great shape, love the way she rolls. Whether I go through the hassle to fix it is another story.

No doubt..

An 87 short block will fix your problem. Keep your head and use everything else on a the older short block. Or 606 swap it. Not hard on a 140. You can use the 603 pump and the 722.3.

__________________
Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

? Cannot you replace the 350 with a 603 ? .

Or just too much work for a DIY'er ? .

My brother's 1987 300SDL has the OM603 and being a 6 banger lover since childhood I love it, the car is WAY too big to suit me though .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Sure,Fwiw she is a 603. I would do it with a 606 instead like the euro ones. Why Merc never sent them across the pond is beyond me

Yes Thanks. I have full access to all being in the biz. I would need a knowledgeable diesel benz wrench though to finalise it. Its just a toy or hobby for me..

Do you have the part number for the actuator you used? Was the process the same or similar to that in the Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962? thread?

__________________
1992 300SD 140.134 Sold

Yes same process,I do not have the part number I just took it of from a first turbo I found on my friends used part shelf .I did it with turbo on car,so no need to remove it.
P.S. The one I took had a longer actuator rod,so I have shortened it,and no problem.

__________________
Mercedes W140, S350TD, 95.
Mercedes W140, S350, 92.
Porsche 944, 86 N/A.
Porsche 944, 85 N/A automatic.
Porsche 944, 84 N/A.
Porsche 944, 83 N/A.
Opel GT, 73.
Toyota Supra MA61,84.

Would a clogged intake or egr make the engine run rough and smoke like a locomotive? If there are any good diesel peeps in the CT/NY area let me know. Seems they are all but gone.. I think the head gasket may be toast too. I have 3 nice diesels that I may off soon. I'm moving..

I going to hate myself for jumping in here, but here I go again.

I've done my own maintenance for years, because there's a vacuum of Diesel Benz mechanics in this area. But one shop you might consider is ENI Motorsports on Federal Road in Danbury. They are an authorized Bosch shop with Benz experience and I did seriously consider them for a transmission rebuild some years back. That's a suggestion, not a recommendation as I haven't had repairs there.

Blocking off EGR is an idiot's delight, and the happy hobby of many here. EGR has zero impact on idle, nor does it affect foot to the floor performance. All it does is reduce pollutant output while cruising by recycling a bit of exhaust gas. Over a very long term, it will cause the intake manifold to soot up and you may be seeing bad effects from that. So the first question is how much mileage is on this engine. If it's up there, then pull the manifold and clean the goop out. You won't have to do it again for a long time. This is a disgusting, messy job. Get a great big plastic tub from home depot (you will be throwing it away when done), a big bottle of degreaser, thick rubber gloves, and go to town.

It's pretty easy to tell if the EGR valve is seeing the correct control signal...just plug a vacuum gauge into the EGR line and go for a ride. EGR vacuum should be zero at idle or at wide open throttle, and highest when cruising at steady speed. If that's the case, the EGR system is getting the correct vacuum. To test the valve itself, just attach a vacuum source to the valve nipple, then quickly remove it. You should hear the valve shut smartly. And done.

Air leaks anywhere in the engine envelope can be a cause of drawing oil through the breather. If you haven't done so recently (ever), replace the oil cap and the o-rings on the dipstick. If the valve cover is leaky, it may be a good time to replace the gasket. And I hate to suggest fixing leaky oil pan gaskets, but maybe.

You have one obvious priority, which is cleaning up your algae problem. A little info: living algae in the tank requires water, so the question is where the water came from/is coming from. Ordinary pump diesel can carry a little moisture or long periods of sitting in humidity can cause condensation, but I suspect that major infestations mostly are caused by leaking storage tanks at whatever station you buy from. So if you are a regular customer of one station, find someplace else to buy. Algae infestation is self-limiting. Water and oil separate and the algae live at the water/oil interface, consuming both. When they consume all the available water, they die. The black stuff is dead algae. Since you have or have had a major infestation, the best solution is to pull the tank and have it steamed out at a radiator shop.

At what speed are you idling? Idle control is another function of the EGR computer. So if your idle is slow in addition to being rough, it may be the control system. To test this, find the idle solenoid, which is the round gadget on the back of the IP. Remove the electrical connector, and see if idle changes. It should slow. If it doesn't, you're closer to pinpointing your problem.

I'm not sure why you would consider a short block at this point. But if you do need any heavy metal, Dave Hendy in Bridgewater is your best bet for a local source.