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  #16  
Old 11-21-2018, 09:33 AM
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Clemson88, I'm told you have info as to engine swap 123 300 CD Turbo in to 126 SEC 380. New on site need information. thank you Mickey

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  #17  
Old 11-21-2018, 05:37 PM
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Shelf life of an activator? Possibly good unless the viscosity of it is thicker or it has gone hard. I do not know for certain but this is based on the chemicals I suspect that compose it.

I have some very old stuff as well that is really decades over the expected shelf life. Every time I think of throwing it out I forget to do it. Automotive painting supplies tend to be very pricy in Canada. Far cheaper in America even though not really even that cheap there.
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  #18  
Old 11-23-2018, 10:56 AM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captmd View Post
Clemson88, I'm told you have info as to engine swap 123 300 CD Turbo in to 126 SEC 380. New on site need information. thank you Mickey
Somewhat, I took a 617 from an 84SD and put it in an 85SE body. I had the luxury of taking the wiring from the SD body and installing it with the diesel engine.

I'm not writing a book but I'll be happy to share information on specific questions. The only real complications came from wiring details.

I began by swapping the engine/transmission assembly. You'll have a bit more difficulty with your project due to the distance between the engine bay and differential. Driveshaft, exhaust and possibly wiring according to which year 126 body you're using.

Mickey, I'm retired and have plenty of spare time as in 'all my time is spare.' You might want to send me a private message so we can exchange email addresses due to me not logging on here in manner which would help me minimize the response time.

You will find yourself spending about as much time researching issues as preforming the work. I can certainly contribute to your progress and will be delighted to help as much as I can but I warn you, I stuck with the factory service manual drawings on the wiring which lead me to remove original wires and install them in the project car exactly as they came off the original.
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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic
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  #19  
Old 11-23-2018, 12:01 PM
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Did you really spray 1.5 gallons of black on the dash?
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  #20  
Old 11-23-2018, 03:39 PM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
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Originally Posted by tyl604 View Post
Did you really spray 1.5 gallons of black on the dash?
No, if that's what I said it wasn't what I meant. I sprayed a gallon and a half of SEM paint on the interior including the quart of SEM dye I used on the seats.
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84 300SD
85 380SE
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  #21  
Old 11-24-2018, 05:38 PM
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DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
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ok...

I have 2 126's here... one is my original first MB 82... with a rod knock... crappy interior... rust free...

one is my 85, with the stupid vacuum pump failure popped valve cover, destroyed upper cam gear, broken cam.

I have replacement motors, and cams, and valve covers, and a shop to work in...
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My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
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  #22  
Old 11-24-2018, 06:53 PM
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Location: Middle TN
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Regarding wood, talk to someone who refinishes guitars. They will be able to deal with veneer. I'm sure there are forums too.
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  #23  
Old 11-26-2018, 11:36 AM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
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Junkman, that should have been the first thing I did regarding this wood. I actually want this trim finished like a cheap guitar. They apply way too much clear then cut and buff it to leave it without dimples which are defined due to the grains of the wood.

I suspect it's the same process good auto body painters use to remove the orange peel from applying too much two part clear. If the clear is of good quality like the Imron of decades ago the finish is super durable and easily buffed back to new paint conditions.

I'll find a guitar finisher and pay them a visit if possible. Thank you.

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