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#1
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'87 300td accordion
Hi, my "accordion" gasket/connector (looks like stainless steel) between exhaust manifold and turbo as developed a crack and I am getting not much turbo pressure combined with exhaust leak in that area.
I looks on the net but did not find a definitive answer on what is the easiest way to replace this? Do I have to take the whole exhaust manifold off, together with the turbo charger or is it enough to just loosen some bolts in order to push the manifold parts apart enough to pull out and replace this connector tube? I see it is held in place with two clamps which ware easy to remove, but with them out of the place there was no way to get the connector out; I will definitely need to remove some more parts, just want to know which approach will be the best? |
#2
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Which one? There are 3 corrugated joints on the 603. There is one from the exhaust "bypass pipe" to the EGR valve on the turbo outlet, one between cylinders 2 and 3 on the exhaust manifold, and a large one on the outlet of the turbocharger where it connects to the exhaust downpipe.
If you're talking about the latter, it has NO EFFECT on your boost pressure, it is after the turbocharger.
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Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
#3
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Hi, it is one before Turbo, between cylinders 2 and 3
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#4
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The exhaust manifold needs to come off to replace that section.
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Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
#5
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I don't want to hijack this thread, but I have a similar problem on my OM603. Has anyone tried to wrap the offending connector with some sort of exhaust wrap to just seal it up "good enough"? I don't have the time and patience to remove the exhaust manifold given all of the nightmares I have read. Is there a particular product anyone would recommend?
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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission. My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear). |
#6
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Quote:
Beware that removing the exhaust manifold is a hell of a job because of clearance between the last exhaust studs and the firewall. You'll need to remove the last stud from the head to get the manifold out. It's almost easier to pull the head with the manifold. The Euro/.971 manifold is a far more rational design.
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CENSORED due to not family friendly words |
#7
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Thanks a lot, already ordered the part, but really worried now about getting it done!
I found this Youtube where he cuts the metal part and removes just the right section of the manifold: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvIOy8jNhhg In this video it shows that there is actually another internal tube inside the accordion, so I am worried if I cut trough I would need that part as well. Does someone knows if my car ('87 300td) would also have that additional sleeve on the inside or there is just the outside one there? Thanks a lot for any tips that might help me doing this! |
#8
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Yes you have the internal sleeve. The internal sleeve carries the vast majority of the exhaust gas while the accordeon only function as a gasket. Without the sleeve the accordeon will fail very quickly. You can remove the cyl 1 and 2 manifold while keeping the cyl 3-6 manifold in place IF you can first remove the cyl 1-2 studs from the head. Then you can just slide the cyl 1-2 manifold forward, no cutting required.
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CENSORED due to not family friendly words |
#9
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OK, thanks, will try removing those studs; hopefully some WD40 soaking ahead of time might help...
Last question; should I expect my internal sleeve also to be broken? I did not order that and it would be real pity if I get all opened and find it needs replacing as well. |
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