Redline D4 ATF claims Dex II compatibility.

I read Type F ATF is an option of last resort for 722.3 and 722.4 transmissions. Keeps the car drivable as long as possible.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon

Do a search on this forum (or Google) for the K1 accumulator spring. When it fails, it often causes flaring and crappy shifting 2-3. The part is cheap and it's easily replaced with the transmission pan off.

after you replace that spring,

X2 on the valvoline maxlife atf , walmart

I have no trouble buying Dexron II here in Holland (The Netherlands) - for example a company called Kroon make it

And Castrol and Eurol and MPM and Combi Oil

(Just a few brand names found on a Google shopping search)

after changing the spring should I also drain the torque converter?

most people say no, draining the torque converter may cause a sludge ball to break loose. Keeping clean fluid circulating will clean out any sludge over time.


Change that filter if you haven't already.


One thing that is tricky is getting the fluid level correct when you refill it. New fluid is hard to see because it's clear, the engine has to be running when you check it, and

the level when COLD (on my 85 300td) is actually 10mm BELOW the mark. After a long drive, the fluid fully warmed, it will read at the normal level. There has been much discussion on that topic.

Always always always drain the torque converter when doing an oil change.

To ignore the torque converter is a waste of fresh fluid. There is so much fluid in the torque converter that you'll barely dilute the crud. The point of the exercise is to remove as much contaminated fluid (and sludge if it has gotten that bad) as possible. Some people here used to get worried about clearing the oil cooler lines (!)

The filter mainly protects the valve body: The parts with the friction material are left "in the sump " so to speak with all the muck. These are the parts that will slip - to stop slipping you not only need friction material on the clutches and the brake bands but also clean fluid.

Totally agree with draining the converter as well. I also blow out the cooler, and get as much of the old fluid out as possible. The photo below shows what happens when a trans is not maintained. All the passages in the valve body are filled with friction material.

In that vicinity of near enough to 400k. To me one problem is we seldom get the past history with the cars we buy. Chances are that transmission was rebuilt or replaced on the car at one unknown time or other.

Certainly if it is the original transmission or even a much earlier rebuild getting signs of it being tired could be quite common at that milage.

Actually an original transmission even making it to that is probably almost exceptional. If type F transmission fluid is known to have a life extending ability. I might consider it.

I would do the test described to separate vacuum issues from transmission flaws first before anything else. You get hard shifts the transmission itself is probably still good.

There are some subtle things in the vacuum control circuit that can cause issues. Expecting that circuit to still be as good as new at this kind of milage is a bit of a stretch. So my opinion is some fundamental testing is in order first.

That is just my opinion or what I would do. Divide and conquer is not always going to work out. At the same time it is a logical thing to attempt.

you my friend is a magnificent genius. I tried your method and there was under filled the transmission fluid so I put a little bit and topped it with the Lucas transmission fix. The results were immediate and impressive. The car drove a whole lot better especially on the gears it wouldn't get stuck as much as it did before and when it did it would get itself out of their gear to the next immediately.

Glad you got it going...drive on and enjoy it!!!

So it was just under filled. For everyone else, careful with the additives. I'm running mobil 1 ATF in mine and it shifts silky smooth, yet firmly. Replacing the K2 cured the flaring on my 1987 300D.

X2 the correct fluid level is crucial


X2 on additives too! Whilst I'm not one to go off on a "snake oil rant" I think there's often a desperate hope element in the purchase of such products which could mean you're just wasting money

I tend to agree in general. There are masses of additives with unrealistic claims out there. Plus situations that are well beyond any hope of an additive fix. Yet there still are a few that can help certain situations. Far far too many are just fundamentally useless at the same time.

The most useful chemical to me is just plain old laquer thinner for at least a few things. I kind of consider it and use it as a semi universal solvent. It seems to especially like attacking any residues of petroleum products.

It all started years ago. I was looking at a pair of zenith carbs on an early gas Mercedes. They needed taken apart and soaked and kitted. Instead I fed them with the laquer thinner as fuel and let them sit for about twenty minutes.

I had removed the idle adjusting screws and nothing came out first. Yet after a twenty minute soak they flowed again. Actually that engine ran better than anytime after I had acquired it. Gas engines also do not mind burning it as fuel as well. Easing your job after the soaking in place.

All the years I knocked carbs down and soaked them plus kitted them. I think that the vast majority would have responded to this approach instead. Today I see what I did before this as a waste of time and money in all too many cases by following the convention of the times.

Of course you have to have reasonable expectations. This will not fix any form of mechanical issue in a carb.

Like many people today I own a lot of smaller engines. I just restocked some additives that do work. Stabilizer for sitting fuel. A can of quick start to get some of the older smaller engines started easier the first time after sitting all winter or summer. I think miracle mystery oil as an additive has some value as well. Again depending on the situation.