I never had any issues with my original rely powering the pencils...
Just ran the #8 feed wire to each pencil and it worked fine for the 3 years I drove the car...

I did change the 50a fuse to an 80...

My original relay says 60A max. is that even enough for the quick glow plugs? These new plugs come from a G class....

well my glow light doesnt work after replacing the pencil style?

It glows really good compared to the old system.

bulb has been checked.

Anyone know how to rewire?

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...921/q50bDy.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...921/iS9wuM.jpg

A more clear picture:

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTk5WDc0O...FbY1RN/$_1.JPG

I guess I need to wire G and La together?

G and La will work but, lamp will go out after cut out will find timer relay.

Sorry for the late response but it could be that all you need to do is adjust the valves and use lighter weight oil.

adjusted, 5w40 is light. Starts fine now. 10 secs wait and go.

When I tested the Pencil Glow Plugs on my 84 300D with an dash board type Amp Meter that had to be connected into the circuit when I first applied the current it pegged the gauge out at 60 amps which is as high as the gauge would go then as the tip of the Glow Plug to hot the amperage fell to about 16 amps and held steady.

If you are going to use the Glow Plugs in the attached picture what you want to do is entirely safe.

Look like you plan to use the original Relay to activate a Ford type Starter Solenoid.

I am not sure if the original relay is going to function properly but I can't see you damaging anything. If the original Glow Plug Relay dose not work you can use a push button switch. That is what I did no my Volvo Diesel.

I don't believe the Starter Solenoid activation circuit need an 80 amp Fuse. On the activation circuit on the Volvo Diesel I used 16 gauge wire with no issues.

You won't need a 150 amp fuse because you it should use a 80 amp fuse.

A wiring diagram similar to what I used.

I don't need this, I am using external relay and timer. But, still thanks for the idea.

Well other people with questions will likely read this post at sometime and it could be helpful to them.

Here is a sample of mine conversion.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...922/MODoCP.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...922/5tKiiF.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...924/9CMsge.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...923/WnDBFb.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...921/q50bDy.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...922/w2NSWh.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...924/GIBldL.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...924/0llgpV.jpg

Diagram voor aansluiten:

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...921/WSHixt.png

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...924/adcgPV.jpg

Glow Plug Variables
 

I'd get rid of that 120 ampere fuse straightaway .

I'd also solder every one of those crimp connections as they're going to get resistance over time......

All these diagrams are great ! they allow DIY'ers to choose the path they prefer and then do it correctly .

For me, using the original times relay makes the most sense because you're making it idiot proof .

80 amp fuse is fine.

Keep in mind, the stock relay is a LOOOOONG timer. Like 1.5 minutes...

Ya need like 30 seconds, except in sub zero temps... so be ready to crank soon.

at 30F - 10secs is hot enough to crank

Glow Plug Time Interval
 

It really depends on your engine's internal health, the condition of the injectors, the IP's timing, the amount of timing chain stretch and so on .

I prefer my engine to start with one or two revolutions maximum .