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  #1  
Old 11-28-2018, 03:59 AM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
Posts: 204
w123 300td front end rebuild questions

Background: I bought a 1982 w123 300TD that was not well maintained. I have installed a rebuilt engine, transmission, drivetrain and radiator and now it runs extremely well.

The tires are showing some shoulder wear, and after hitting a rock a few days ago the car now pulls a bit to one side. I'm thinking to rebuild the entire front end.

My questions are:
  • Mercedes vs Lemfoerder vs Febi. Lemfoerder is half the price of Mercedes and Febi is half or 2/3 the cost of Lemfoerder. I've had good results with all three of these brands. Any reason not to buy Febi front end parts vs Lemfoerder or Mercedes?

  • I'm thinking to replace all of the following. Please let me know if you think preemptively replacing these parts is excessive:
    * 123 330 18 03 Tie Rod Assembly LEFT/RIGHT (2 per Car)
    * 123 460 15 05 drag link
    * 126 460 08 19 idler arm repair kit
    * 000 463 51 32 steering damper shock
    * 116 333 40 14 Bushing (front sway bar to upper control arm) x4
    * 116 586 05 33 Grease Boot repair kit, upper control arm ball joint x2 I think this is included with the control arms?
    * 123 330 46 07 LEFT upper control arm assembly.
    * 123 330 47 07 RIGHT upper control arm assembly.
    * 123 330 13 75 lower control arm bushing repair kit x 2 I think this is included with the control arms?
    * 116 333 09 27 lower ball joints x2 I think this is included with the control arms?
    * 116 586 04 33 Grease Boot repair kit, lower control arm ball joint x2 I think this is included with the control arms?
    * 116 330 00 18 eccentric bolt kit x2
    * 123 460 02 10 Steering Coupling
    * 123 320 00 30 FRONT shocks x2


  • Any parts I missed? Any other comments?
Reference: W123 Front steering suspension rebuild list


Last edited by 300TD1982; 12-02-2018 at 04:11 AM.
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  #2  
Old 11-28-2018, 04:33 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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I personally will never ever buy Febi again. They are box shifters - they don't appear to actually appear to make anything themselves. Not only have I found their products to be over priced and substandard when I tried to get them to replace parts where the rubber had cracked in storage the regional manager for the Benelux countries was a rude ignorant arse hole.

I don't expect others to fight my battles for me - but there you go - you asked for opinions (!)

I say avoid Febi like the plague.

#####

The list you are using is a generic list.

It is useful but if you were to buy the whole upper control arm assemblies for example you wouldn't need to get the grease boot repair kit as well.

#####

I think you are best off looking for structural damage before making a bulk buy of parts and throwing parts at the car.

Although times seem to have improved with regards to the quality of replacement parts I'm firmly of the opinion (having done it myself) that original parts are / were of better quality than those that are available now.

Don't look at the "old" part and assume it won't carry on doing a good job for you just because it is old.

It is best to check and measure rather than blanket replace.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #3  
Old 11-28-2018, 01:28 PM
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Tire wear
Sagging upper control arm bushings will cause the camber to become negative, resulting in inner edge tire wear.
Barring some catastrophic failure due to rust, the most common cause of the front wheel tilting inward at the top is failure of the upper control arm's inner bushing, where it's bolted to the inner fender.

Rotted out Lower Control Arm Bushings will cause outer edge Tire Wear and unless they are extremely bad you cannot see the Bushings are no good.
Personally I would not replace more then is needed to fix the issue (I say that because over the last Year my car was hit and run in parking lots X2. An accident can turn you prize into junk quickly.). But, you should check all.
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  #4  
Old 11-28-2018, 02:01 PM
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After rebuilding several W123 and W126 FEs I can tell you this is what fails in order...

1. Caster rod bushings. Don't cheap out here.

2. Lower ball joints.

3. Upper ball joints and control arm bushing.

4. Tie rod ends and drag link.

Seldom do I find the other bushings worn to the point of not maintaining alignment.
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  #5  
Old 11-28-2018, 03:23 PM
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I would do all parts in sections. If you remove the spring, do upper and lower ball joints bushings, guide rod mounts and sway bar bushings if necessary. My 126 sway bar bushings were fine so I left them.

All of the steering parts between the tie rods are easy and may have a lot of mileage left. Same with steering damper. Do shocks if they are old.
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  #6  
Old 11-28-2018, 08:56 PM
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lemforder is the OEM supplier of the w123 undercarriage parts so stick with that. MB also buys from Lemforder. Never ever buy febi they dont do R&D they just copy.
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  #7  
Old 11-29-2018, 09:22 PM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
Posts: 204
Thanks everyone. I appreciate all your comments.

Today I drove four hours to the closest auto repair place. They said nothing looks bent or obviously trashed. They don't actually have the tools to align my car, so now I have an appointment next week at the repair place that is 5 or 6 hours away. "Country life."

I'll see what they say and go from there.

I'll go with Mercedes or Lemfoerder parts for sure.

There's a lot of play in the steering box, so I might try to get a remanufactured one delivered in time for my appointment next week.
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  #8  
Old 11-30-2018, 07:02 PM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
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Ordered a remanufactured steering box. It'll be here Wednesday and I'll take the car in Thursday to have the new box installed and alignment performed. Or, if parts are too knackered to do an alignment then I'll go from there.
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  #9  
Old 11-30-2018, 08:21 PM
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You're wasting your money aligning it before installing suspension parts. Every 126 that I've looked at has had worn parts because there is over 100,000 mi on the suspension. You'll get that Mercedes handling if you refurbish the front end.

I've had several that "could be aligned" but followed the road crown way more than when new. Refurb fixed that. There are lots of threads with pics and destructions.
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  #10  
Old 12-01-2018, 03:12 AM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
Posts: 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
You're wasting your money aligning it before installing suspension parts. Every 126 that I've looked at has had worn parts because there is over 100,000 mi on the suspension. You'll get that Mercedes handling if you refurbish the front end.

I've had several that "could be aligned" but followed the road crown way more than when new. Refurb fixed that. There are lots of threads with pics and destructions.

Hi, I appreciate the tip! Are you suggesting pre-emptively replacing parts? If so, which ones?

Also, this is a 123, not a 126, for what that's worth. I bought it used, and the suspension has somewhere between 20,000 and 300,000 miles on it.
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  #11  
Old 12-01-2018, 09:27 AM
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It is my opinion that a complete front end rebuild is in order. Especially if you are planning to put on new tires soon. I have done several, and the ride quality and road feel is greatly improved. Comparing my low(ish) mile '85 300D with my other one with 300K+, the '85 feels like a new car. I have driven several others with low miles, and the cars with rebuilt front suspension feel the same or better. It is worth every penny in my opinion......Rich
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2018, 09:29 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
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Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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The Lower control arm bushings on a W123 can be upgraded to the W126 specification - quite a popular upgrade

(I still wouldn't chuck old good stuff though!)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #13  
Old 12-02-2018, 03:26 AM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
Posts: 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
It is my opinion that a complete front end rebuild is in order. Especially if you are planning to put on new tires soon. I have done several, and the ride quality and road feel is greatly improved. Comparing my low(ish) mile '85 300D with my other one with 300K+, the '85 feels like a new car. I have driven several others with low miles, and the cars with rebuilt front suspension feel the same or better. It is worth every penny in my opinion......Rich
Which parts do you replace during a complete front end rebuild?
Everything on that list above (I realize there are some redundancies)?
Anything else?


I love this car and I'd like to do it once and do it right!
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  #14  
Old 12-02-2018, 11:17 AM
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Lemforder is worth the replacement:



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-benz-Steering-Tie-Rod-Assembly-LEMFORDER-OEM-Quality-1243301403/191658634202?hash=item2c9fbeabda:g:BJgAAOSw5AFZZoQp
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  #15  
Old 12-02-2018, 07:51 PM
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ROLLGUY
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300TD1982 View Post
Which parts do you replace during a complete front end rebuild?
Everything on that list above (I realize there are some redundancies)?
Anything else?


I love this car and I'd like to do it once and do it right!
If I remember, I did not replace the guide rod bushings. Everything else in your list was replaced. I have a thread here somewhere from a few years ago. I have done several others since then......Rich

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