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  #1  
Old 12-14-2018, 01:44 PM
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81 240d Manual Tranny swap question(s)

My 81 240d's manual transmission just bit the dust (lost 3rd, 4th gear, not the linkage or shifter assembly, lever at tranny moves freely back forth).

I have found one locally (Austin, TX) from a 78. Will that bolt in? or if not, what adjustments?

or, does anyone here have one that might go right in?

Thanks

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  #2  
Old 12-14-2018, 01:51 PM
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I'd expect the manual gearboxes to be the almost the same for those years - you should be able to see either 716.005; 716.210; or 716. 214 stamped on the outside of the casing(s) along with the other numbers that make up the serial numbers
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  #3  
Old 12-14-2018, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jroach View Post
My 81 240d's manual transmission just bit the dust (lost 3rd, 4th gear, not the linkage or shifter assembly, lever at tranny moves freely back forth).

I have found one locally (Austin, TX) from a 78. Will that bolt in? or if not, what adjustments?

or, does anyone here have one that might go right in?

Thanks

1981 is the changeover year from iron case boxes to aluminum case, and could be either. If yours is an iron case, the '78 box will be a direct replacement. If yours is an aluminum case, the iron case box can be used, but will require the matching selector, shift rods, mount, slave cylinder, and perhaps the forward portion of the driveshaft.
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Old 12-14-2018, 04:39 PM
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jr:

Have a close look at the connection of the 3-4 lever to the shaft that enters the trans case.
There is a bolt that retains the lever to the shaft. If it has backed out the lever will swing freely on the shaft, per your description.
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  #5  
Old 12-14-2018, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
1981 is the changeover year from iron case boxes to aluminum case, and could be either. If yours is an iron case, the '78 box will be a direct replacement. If yours is an aluminum case, the iron case box can be used, but will require the matching selector, shift rods, mount, slave cylinder, and perhaps the forward portion of the driveshaft.
Frank is correct. To visually compare, the aluminum case is one piece (no separate bellhousing) and the iron case is a two piece affair (separate bellhousing).
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  #6  
Old 12-14-2018, 10:49 PM
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Gotta love the tech advice known and shared by the Old Timers here......
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  #7  
Old 12-15-2018, 05:11 AM
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(I'd forgotten that the aluminium casings have different shifter rods and mechanisms)

I've heard of people losing their "shift-ability" because the bolt holding the lever to the shifter fork on the inside of the gearbox has come loose - access to these hex Allen bolts is tight when fitted in the car but might be worth checking...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #8  
Old 12-15-2018, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
(I'd forgotten that the aluminium casings have different shifter rods and mechanisms)

I've heard of people losing their "shift-ability" because the bolt holding the lever to the shifter fork on the inside of the gearbox has come loose - access to these hex Allen bolts is tight when fitted in the car but might be worth checking...

Stretch, see post #4.
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  #9  
Old 12-15-2018, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
Stretch, see post #4.
Aggggh!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #10  
Old 12-16-2018, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
(I'd forgotten that the aluminium casings have different shifter rods and mechanisms)

I've heard of people losing their "shift-ability" because the bolt holding the lever to the shifter fork on the inside of the gearbox has come loose - access to these hex Allen bolts is tight when fitted in the car but might be worth checking...

This has happened to me on my 190D and 240D. If it's loose, put some locktite 290 (wicking kind) on the thread and tighten it up. If it's backed out completely you have to put some weight behind it and twist to get the cap screw started in the fork because it shifts when the capscrew backs out. If lowering the transmission from the back doesn't give you the room you need and you don't want to remove the transmission, you can drill through the transmission tunnel and push on the hex bit and capscrew from the inside.

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