Sheared bolt head off OM606 intake manifold, now what? - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Maxbumpo · #46 01-28-2019, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tages

the correct method would be to remove manifold. Weld nut on to broken stud "put nut on stud and fill the inside of nut with weld". With heat it will back right out.

This is the right approach.

jake12tech · #47 01-28-2019, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tages

wow...

Drilling is the last resort. the correct method would be to remove manifold. Weld nut on to broken stud "put nut on stud and fill the inside of nut with weld". With heat it will back right out.

Would need a damn good welder. You’re working around an aluminum cylinder head. Warps and cracks easily.

Father Of Giants · #48 01-29-2019, 10:31 AM

So looks like I gotta drill it out again, hurray!
Fml.

Maxbumpo · #49 01-31-2019, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jake12tech

Would need a damn good welder. You’re working around an aluminum cylinder head. Warps and cracks easily.

I disagree, this is a very simple yet effective way to get the job done, and quickly. The intense but brief heat from welding a nut to the top of the stud will quite often break the hold of the corrosion, and the remains of the stud come out easy as pie. I would not be concerned in the slightest about damaging the head, especially when the stud is standing proud of the head like the photo. I would also not hesitate to try this if the stud were broken off flush. If a mobile welder could come to my house and do this for $100 or less, I'd be all over that. Much less risk, in my opinion, compared to drilling out the stud.

ROLLGUY · #50 01-31-2019, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxbumpo

I disagree, this is a very simple yet effective way to get the job done, and quickly. The intense but brief heat from welding a nut to the top of the stud will quite often break the hold of the corrosion, and the remains of the stud come out easy as pie. I would not be concerned in the slightest about damaging the head, especially when the stud is standing proud of the head like the photo. I would also not hesitate to try this if the stud were broken off flush. If a mobile welder could come to my house and do this for $100 or less, I'd be all over that. Much less risk, in my opinion, compared to drilling out the stud.

I agree as well. This is the best approach, with the least amount of risk.

tages · #51 01-31-2019, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jake12tech

Would need a damn good welder. You’re working around an aluminum cylinder head. Warps and cracks easily.

I can't even count on both hands how many I have done on gm Al heads on the LS series engines.

A flux core 80$ habor freight welder will be more then enough. You could run some 6010/6011 rod if you have it laying it around, but the point is; It doesn't matter.

I have even used this method to remove stripped bleeders on the big Porsche brembos. The heat dissipates very quickly and does not warp stuff like this.

you're not welding thin gauge metal...

vwnate1 · #52 01-31-2019, 03:30 PM

Many are not aware that electric welding will shrink the bolt/stud/pin and so break it loose from the corrosion .

I always make a point of laying a large flat washer over the protruding end before welding so weld spatter doesn't make a mess or damage anything .

Many older Motocycles didn't have the inner lip to facilitate removing the steering head races, some 1960's Fords had this issue in the drake drums too, what to do ? .

Easy-peasy : find a competent Welder (the only difficult part) and have him lay a bead of arc weld around the exact middle of the bad race, right where the bearings used to ride ~ when the circle of weld is finished, the race is shrunk and falls out in your hand .

Simpler=Better · #53 01-31-2019, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tages

I can't even count on both hands how many I have done on gm Al heads on the LS series engines.

A flux core 80$ habor freight welder will be more then enough. You could run some 6010/6011 rod if you have it laying it around, but the point is; It doesn't matter.

I have even used this method to remove stripped bleeders on the big Porsche brembos. The heat dissipates very quickly and does not warp stuff like this.

you're not welding thin gauge metal...

I've welded out bolts broken below the deck, it's not a big deal

Father Of Giants · #54 01-31-2019, 04:09 PM

Shoot, if only there was a good Mobile welder around me. I'll weigh my options.

vwnate1 · #55 01-31-2019, 04:51 PM

This is the hard part ~ when I was working in a HUGE heavy equipment shop the Welders earned $90K + / year and still botched most of the simple & easy jobs I gave them, often destroying vintage parts it had taken years to find .

A little boy was nearly killed once after the crappy welding job done on a flat tow bar failed, I made sure to cut it up for scrap so no one else could be hurt .

FESTINA LENTE here please ! .

tages · #56 01-31-2019, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

A little boy was nearly killed once after the crappy welding job done on a flat tow bar failed, I made sure to cut it up for scrap so no one else could be hurt .

FESTINA LENTE here please ! .

certified welder?

vwnate1 · #57 01-31-2019, 05:46 PM

Yes ;

The boob who ruined several expen$ive parts and botched the tow bar welding was in fact a Certified Welder .

Kinda like the A.S.A.E. Certified mechanics, most are very good indeed but most also have little understanding of vintage vehicle repair .

my83300cd · #58 01-31-2019, 07:22 PM

So from the photo it looks like you need to get the broken extractor out first. That's gonna suck, as they are harder steel. Getting the manifold off would give a welder more room to deal.
I've done the left hand bit removal method, and with patience and several size bits it usually goes well. The key thing is getting the first bit centered, and using plenty of Kroil or PB Blaster to washow out the swarf, and cool the bit. I upsize the bits till the last one is slightly smaller diameter than the threads, and have had the remainder unscrew itself.

Father Of Giants · #59 01-31-2019, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by my83300cd

So from the photo it looks like you need to get the broken extractor out first. That's gonna suck, as they are harder steel. Getting the manifold off would give a welder more room to deal.
I've done the left hand bit removal method, and with patience and several size bits it usually goes well. The key thing is getting the first bit centered, and using plenty of Kroil or PB Blaster to washow out the swarf, and cool the bit. I upsize the bits till the last one is slightly smaller diameter than the threads, and have had the remainder unscrew itself.

It's actually the manifold stud. The bolt head snapped off.

Simpler=Better · #60 02-01-2019, 01:20 PM

Go to a local muffler shop(not a chain). Talk to the dudes. Get one of them to bring a little mig over and zap it real quick.

Or post on craigslist, there's gotta be a bunch of people with little welders all around you.