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  #16  
Old 01-03-2019, 12:24 PM
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Sealed bearings wouldn't make any difference as the bearings are lubricated by the engine oil. You do want to avoid the plastic/nylon caged bearings.
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  #17  
Old 01-03-2019, 12:30 PM
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You did not say if it is the down shifts that are hard, upshifts that are hard or both.

When my vacuum line to the transmission modulator got disconnected I had harsh down shifts but the upshifts were nearly normal.

There is no vacuum amplifier on my year and mode.

It would not hurt to inspect the bearing on the Vacuum Pump. If it is the bearing with the plastic cage you would to change it to a bearing with a steel cage.
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  #18  
Old 01-03-2019, 12:35 PM
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Post Bearing Choices

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Sealed bearings wouldn't make any difference as the bearings are lubricated by the engine oil. You do want to avoid the plastic/nylon caged bearings.
That's what I thought .

I sometimes use sealed bearings in rear wheels as some oldies have mediocre designs that allow gear oil to weep out and contaminate the brakes, also in generators sealed seems to last longer than the original open bearings .

Good point about the metal cages ! .

LM brand bearings are to be avoided at all costs ~ not even for FREE .
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1982 240D creampuff 370,000 miles
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 430,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Moto R60/6 Barn Find, 8,000miles
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  #19  
Old 01-03-2019, 03:09 PM
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[QUOTE=Mike D;3875032]If it comes down to it, the pumps are rebuild-able, including replacing the bearings with improved, caged style bearings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWvLY82zcFg/QUOTE]

That's a 617 pump, which is a very different design. I don't know of anyone who has rebuilt a 602/603 pump.

Here's a comparison of the bearings used in the old and new style vacuum pumps.



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  #20  
Old 01-03-2019, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
If it comes down to it, the pumps are rebuild-able, including replacing the bearings with improved, caged style bearings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWvLY82zcFg

Comparison of bearings on posts #14 and #15.

OM606 Vacuum Pump

I recommend using paint thinner/mineral spirits and hot soapy water for the cleaning. I'm not a fan of the brake cleaner/carb cleaner approach.

This job is a lot easier with the radiator pulled
That video shows a 617 pump rebuild. Or did I miss something later in the video?

I haven’t seen parts or instructions to rebuild a 601/2/3 pump. Nor have I heard of the pump section fail. It’s usually external check valve seizure or drive section collapse - bearings or pivoting lever hinges come apart.

The early style crimped on cover can leak oil as the seal hardens. I haven’t seen the seal available separately but that would be a straightforward in situ repair.

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  #21  
Old 01-03-2019, 04:03 PM
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My mistake. I forgot the '91's had the OM603.
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  #22  
Old 01-03-2019, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
I recommend using paint thinner/mineral spirits and hot soapy water for the cleaning. I'm not a fan of the brake cleaner/carb cleaner approach.

This job is a lot easier with the radiator pulled
What makes you prefer these solvent over brake cleaner?
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  #23  
Old 01-03-2019, 06:18 PM
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They are not as toxic or as harsh on my skin, lungs and liver. They take a bit longer to clean but they do not affect rubber seals, polished surfaces, etc.

Mostly personal preference.

Check out some of the results of long term exposure to those cleaners.

https://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2009-12/dont-get-careless

https://sciencing.com/ingredients-in-carburetor-cleaners-12080316.html
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  #24  
Old 01-03-2019, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
They are not as toxic or as harsh on my skin, lungs and liver. They take a bit longer to clean but they do not affect rubber seals, polished surfaces, etc.

Mostly personal preference.

Check out some of the results of long term exposure to those cleaners.

https://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2009-12/dont-get-careless

https://sciencing.com/ingredients-in-carburetor-cleaners-12080316.html
Converted
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Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.
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  #25  
Old 01-04-2019, 01:27 PM
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Exclamation Chemicals

I've been telling folks to discard carby cleaner sprays for decades ~ it makes a bee line to your kidneys and liver, nothing good can come of it .
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1982 240D creampuff 370,000 miles
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 430,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Moto R60/6 Barn Find, 8,000miles
1959 VW #113 Deuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk, Rust, Arthritis, Crushed Spine,Broken Neck&Back
Memories &Peace Of Mind
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  #26  
Old 01-07-2019, 01:24 PM
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Downshifts are fine... always have been.

I did use my stethoscope on the vacuum pump and heard no odd noises or knocks.

I was set to do vac line testing this weekend, but just as suddenly as the harsh shifting appeared... it disappeared. My back being in a state of pain, I didn't do anything under the hood. In fact, I never even popped the hood... she just started shifting very normally on the drive home from work Friday night.
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  #27  
Old 01-08-2019, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
I've been telling folks to discard carby cleaner sprays for decades ~ it makes a bee line to your kidneys and liver, nothing good can come of it .
I have ditched them and now am using industrial surfactants to clean greasy stuff, carby clean is still used if Im trying to remove shellac gasoline or other crap like varnish stuck on throttle bodies. - All others get the purple stuff from sams club or the orange stuff from homedepot with a lot of watering down.
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  #28  
Old 01-08-2019, 08:52 PM
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I use dishwashing detergent and water as my first step. Usually that's all that's required.
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  #29  
Old 01-09-2019, 12:14 PM
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Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
I have ditched them and now am using industrial surfactants to clean greasy stuff, carby clean is still used if Im trying to remove shellac gasoline or other crap like varnish stuck on throttle bodies. - All others get the purple stuff from sams club or the orange stuff from homedepot with a lot of watering down.
For the varishy stuff I use cheap, plain old Ether , starting fluid in a can .

Just work in a WELL VENTILATED AREA AND DON'T SMOKE , it'll be far safer than carby cleaner, you really don't need it , it -will- kill you, just slowly .
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-Nate
1982 240D creampuff 370,000 miles
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 430,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Moto R60/6 Barn Find, 8,000miles
1959 VW #113 Deuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk, Rust, Arthritis, Crushed Spine,Broken Neck&Back
Memories &Peace Of Mind
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  #30  
Old 01-10-2019, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
For the varishy stuff I use cheap, plain old Ether , starting fluid in a can .

Just work in a WELL VENTILATED AREA AND DON'T SMOKE , it'll be far safer than carby cleaner, you really don't need it , it -will- kill you, just slowly .
got it, im ditching the carb cleaner.
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