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  #1  
Old 01-14-2019, 01:56 PM
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190D - Drive without speedometer?

I want to send my speedometer out for odometer repair and calibration. I'm using my 190D as a daily driver and am wondering if I could cause any damage to the cable or sender if I drive with the cable disconnected.

Another question, does the speedometer come out of the cluster OK or do I need to send the entire cluster out?

I know this is probably a DIY job but given my past experience in odometer repair I'd rather just pay a professional to do it right the first time.

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  #2  
Old 01-14-2019, 02:20 PM
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It’s not too hard. Pull the cluster and partially disassemble to remove the speedometer. You can put the rest of the cluster back in. Just be sure to tie up the cable so that nothing gets caught as it spins. Do you know how to pull the cluster?
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Old 01-14-2019, 02:27 PM
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If it has a direct read oil gage, you better cap that line if you want to drive with the cluster out. I'd worry a bit about the end of the speedo cable. Seems like it could rub on something or a stray thread, wire, etc. could get wound up in it.
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  #4  
Old 01-14-2019, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxfrank View Post
It’s not too hard. Pull the cluster and partially disassemble to remove the speedometer. You can put the rest of the cluster back in. Just be sure to tie up the cable so that nothing gets caught as it spins. Do you know how to pull the cluster?

I've watched a few videos and will probably order the hooks to get it out properly. Any tips aside from the hooks?

I will put the cluster back in considering the oil pressure gauge while I drive and will cap the speedometer cable so it doesn't interfere with anything.
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  #5  
Old 01-14-2019, 02:52 PM
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Just remove the panels under the dashboard in the foot well and feel with you hand up to the instrument cluster and push (and swear and keep some bandages ready for the probable loss of blood)

As for the 190D - I don't think there is a speed sensor. There is for the petrol engines but I'm pretty sure the diesel don't have one.

To avoid speeding tickets use a GPS navigation system / clever telephone (!)
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  #6  
Old 01-14-2019, 03:04 PM
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I assume it is a w201 190D. 2 things to watch out.

1) you must hook up the oil gauge otherwise you will regret big time.
2) the speedo assembly may be a ground bridge to the gauge on the left. So you may lose electric connection. It is the case for the w123.

I wouldn't worry about the spinning speedo cable. Just cover it or move it out of the way.

Btw:There is sensor for the cruise control inside the speedo assembly.
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  #7  
Old 01-14-2019, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
I assume it is a w201 190D. 2 things to watch out.

1) you must hook up the oil gauge otherwise you will regret big time.
2) the speedo assembly may be a ground bridge to the gauge on the left. So you may lose electric connection. It is the case for the w123.

I wouldn't worry about the spinning speedo cable. Just cover it or move it out of the way.

Btw:There is sensor for the cruise control inside the speedo assembly.
Thank you for the tips. I'll certainly hook the oil gauge back up. I had a pressure gauge on an old Chris Craft boat fail and started leaking oil directly on my leg. It wasn't enjoyable.
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  #8  
Old 01-14-2019, 06:56 PM
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Running without a speedo attached to the cable might let the cable work out of the housing. This can occur on US style cars but I am not familiar with the construction of a MB cable.

In any event, it is a good idea to lube the cable when everything is out.

If you remove the cable from the trans and drive it, be sure to use plastic bags , tape to protect the trans and cable ends from dirt.
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  #9  
Old 01-14-2019, 07:49 PM
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Electric oil pressure send &gauge

Quote:
Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
I assume it is a w201 190D. 2 things to watch out.

1) you must hook up the oil gauge otherwise you will regret big time.
2) the speedo assembly may be a ground bridge to the gauge on the left. So you may lose electric connection. It is the case for the w123.

I wouldn't worry about the spinning speedo cable. Just cover it or move it out of the way.

Btw:There is sensor for the cruise control inside the speedo assembly.
The OM60X series of engines have an electric oil pressure sender and an electric gauge. There is no chance of oil leaking from anyplace but the sender which is located at the rear and lower side of the oil filter housing just in front of the firewall on the driver's side of the engine.
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  #10  
Old 01-14-2019, 09:22 PM
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The oil gauge will be electric, but it doesn't matter if he replaces the balance of the pod.

The very hardest way of doing this is from the bottom, so be careful of what you're watching on Youtube. Also, it's impossible to reconnect the HVAC tubing if you try to do it from the bottom. The correct way of doing this is as documented in the FSM: remove the left HVAC vent and surround, then reach around from the left side and disconnect the speedo cable. Once that's done, the dash will pull out about an inch and you'll have just enough room to work (have bandaids ready) There's also no need to remove the steering wheel, although it would give you a bit more clearance.

If you've ever worked on a 123, you will be surprised that the same minds designed the 190 dashpod. In addition to the speedo cable, there's a multiway plug, plus ten or more individual wire connections and six fiber optic connections. To make it more fun, you have to disconnect and reconnect everything by blind feel. And the final joke is that there's some sort of insulating blanket that will seem to be too bulky to stuff back into place. It gets especially annoying on the right side, where the idiot lights are each individually wired. There's a good chance of putting a bulb in the wrong hole, so be careful. (Yes, doing it with a second multiway connector would have actually killed them.) Work slowly, examine and label each wire and connector, and make a diagram. When the dash pod is out, photograph the back to help you remember what has to be plugged back in. The only break you have is that any fiber optic line can plug into any slot. After a few times, you'll find it never gets easier, but your first time is going to be an epic ordeal.
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  #11  
Old 01-14-2019, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxfrank View Post
The oil gauge will be electric, but it doesn't matter if he replaces the balance of the pod.

The very hardest way of doing this is from the bottom, so be careful of what you're watching on Youtube. Also, it's impossible to reconnect the HVAC tubing if you try to do it from the bottom. The correct way of doing this is as documented in the FSM: remove the left HVAC vent and surround, then reach around from the left side and disconnect the speedo cable. Once that's done, the dash will pull out about an inch and you'll have just enough room to work (have bandaids ready) There's also no need to remove the steering wheel, although it would give you a bit more clearance.



You just saved this man so much pain if he reads that before he dives in, lol. Ask me how I know
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  #12  
Old 01-14-2019, 11:17 PM
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If there is any chance of fairly easily getting under the car grab your 10 mm socket and ratchet and unbolt the speedo drive cable from its boss near the tail end of the tranny. Unclip the speedo cable from any plastic retaining clips along the underside and up to where it passes through the bottom of the fire wall. You can give the part of the cable that passes through the rubber grommet a quick spray of WD40 or something like that to lube it up and allow it to slide back and forth a bit easier.

get the driver's floor mat out and any passenger compartment panels or insulation off the driver's side foot well/fire wall area, there is either a spring clip of a bracket and screw that holds the speedo cable in place along the fire wall.

Then with the speedo cable disconnected and loosened along its underside length, with the cable unsecured and loose along the fire wall; the entire cluster can be pulled forward with the cluster hooks to where it is easier to disconnect and later reconnect the wiring and cable to the cluster.

I never got to it on the 201 I owned but always thought it might be doable and definitely worth it to re-purpose a speedo cable from a 124 ca which is longer onto the 201 to builds slack into the installation.
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  #13  
Old 01-15-2019, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by if6was9 View Post
The OM60X series of engines have an electric oil pressure sender and an electric gauge. There is no chance of oil leaking from anyplace but the sender which is located at the rear and lower side of the oil filter housing just in front of the firewall on the driver's side of the engine.
Really?

I suppose it all depends on the year of the 190D. My 84 190D is NOT electronic oil pressure gauge. If you don't plug it then you will regret big time. I have driven my W123 and W201 with NO dash except plugging the oil gauge and everything is fine.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2019, 07:56 AM
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If using a rebuilder you may be able to get them to send you one ready to bolt in so you can do the work then return your core....be sure to tell them what mileage you wish to show. If you show a low mileage I'd document it so you can demonstrate the mileage on the car correctly at resale time.
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  #15  
Old 01-15-2019, 09:12 AM
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Important Caveat...

I had to pull the cluster out of my w124 300d about 3 weeks ago. If the cluster has never been pulled before it will take major effort to remove it. I made some diy hooks for the cluster that were an utter failure. I ended up taking out the vents to the left and right of the cluster... still couldn't get enough of a grip on the cluster to budge it. Finally used a quick clamp to lock onto the left side of the cluster and pulled firmly but slowly. Cluster went back in like butter.

Hopefully the 190d isn't as cantankerous...

The suggestion to have some bandaids on hand is a good one...


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