I have a 1985 W123 300D Turbo California version, with 72,000 miles on the odometer, which was in a rear end collision back in October 2014. We had a repair shop repair the right rear end side member, quarter panel, trunk pieces etc. However the job was largely done incorrectly with harvested clip pieces. We are now doing a second phase collision repair with a reputable body shop with knowledge in older model Mercedes.

My main question is in regards to the repair of the rear right side member (part# 123-610-02-10) (luckily the left side was largely unharmed in the collision). Is it best to replace the entire side member, or is sectioning sufficient? My concern is long term value of the vehicle. All other components of the car are pristine. The original owner had it garaged, all paperwork intact, clean interior, etc.

Any advise/perspective would be appreciated.

Where are you located? If you are in Southern California, I can recommend an excellent body shop/painter with lots of experience on W123 models.

BWhitmore2@earthlink.net

Don't have any advice to offer really, but I've got a 1982 300SD that I'm just using for parts. The rear end is basically mint. I'm on the other side of the country from you but if you need any of the parts off of it just shoot me a PM with an offer (and preferably a guide for how to remove said part). All I really wanted out of the car was the engine so the rest of it is just taking up space.

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2010 Mercedes E350 4Matic - 77k miles
1986.5 Nissan D21 V6 4x4 - 276k miles
1987 Mercedes 190D 2.5 Turbo - 3??k miles
1983 Mercedes 300SD turbo parts car
2017 Honda CBR500R - 15k miles
2016 Suzuki GSX S1000 - 9k miles

Thinking as a buyer, I wouldn't care if it was sectioned as long as it was done very neatly and it was structurally as good as new. Nice welding, no rivets, no excess undercoat. Less obtrusive work can be better at times.

You may wish to see the work before it is painted or undercoated, this should set the tone that you care how it is done and that you will only accept a properly done repair. One that looks correct and is structurally sound.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Please expand on this a bit.

What specifically was done wrong with the job? Welding , fit, installing used parts?

It has been awhile since I responded to this post.

I have not proceeded with the re-repairs yet, but am currently in the search process for a capable body shop in the So. Cal. region again.

The main issues with the prior repair were for one fit & finish. The parts were harvested off the rear of a wrecking yard car. The passenger rear-end side member was not pulled all the way and therefor the rear passenger fender is bowed out. There is also cracking bondo where the base of the c pillar & fenders meet. Garnish pieces were taped with 3M tape as opposed to re-attached with proper anchoring screws. Trunk floor is also poorly pieced together with salvage pieces and original sheet metal from car, plywood spare wheel cover no longer sits flush in it's groove.

I just had my 85SD rear end fixed. The guy had the undamaged parts car to take measurements. He got everything back in shape before cutting. The left rear quarter was bowed and the right trunk lid seam was pulled in. Only the rear panel had to be replaced.

This is mostly a sentimental refurbishment and the car won't be worth what I have in it but it's hard to find one in that good condition and I intend to keep the car.

Consider whether you can find a better starting point with the money you're going to pay for this repair.

It is hard to say a lot from the information given.

My only comment is that you should take measurements from an original car not the plywood spare cover which tends to warp and might have expanded in length.

The profile of the fender should follow the trim piece that runs along from front to back just under the windows. Last I knew the original plastic fasteners for that trim were still available.

As for where to cut you want to be far enough forward to catch all the damage and in a place where you can make the weld physically.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

PM sent.

Great body shop/painter in Southern California with years of experience working on vintage Mercedes:

Montebello Auto Center
1112 W. Whittier Blvd.
Montebello, California 90640

Joe Ortega, owner, (323) 890-0045