How to remove the intake/exhaust manifolds with turbo - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

gregp1962 · #16 02-18-2019, 12:56 PM

Thanks Alec, I think that's exactly what I needed. Now wish me luck in a few hours.

gregp1962 · #17 02-18-2019, 01:59 PM

OK, I got a 17mm wrench on it. WOW! it isn't budging. I'm leaving some WD40 on it to sit a little while. I'm thinking this should have been the first thing to loosen in this whole process.

GTStinger · #18 02-18-2019, 05:52 PM

Kroil oil will do a much better job than the WD40. Sometimes I think that stuff could flow uphill.

gregp1962 · #19 02-18-2019, 07:14 PM

Well, I got it out finally. I don't think I would have found that secret bracket underneath if it weren't for ROLLGUY and ALEC. Thanks guys. Since some cars don't have that bracket, I'm considering not putting it back on when I reassemble the engine.

There is so much oil under the manifolds that I can't even tell where it is coming from. Surely it is coming from the turbo somewhere.

ROLLGUY · #20 02-18-2019, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregp1962

Well, I got it out finally. I don't think I would have found that secret bracket underneath if it weren't for ROLLGUY and ALEC. Thanks guys. Since some cars don't have that bracket, I'm considering not putting it back on when I reassemble the engine.

There is so much oil under the manifolds that I can't even tell where it is coming from. Surely it is coming from the turbo somewhere.

Even though it is a pain to remove and put back on, I suggest NOT leaving it off. There is much vibration with these engines, and every brace/bracket is there for a reason. Also, if the air cleaner drain tube is not supported, it will vibrate and wallow out the connections. That will cause oil leaks, and I know you don't want that.

Alec300SD · #21 02-19-2019, 12:14 AM

Congrats on removing the turbo.

Definitely reinstall the exhaust manifold stay (bracket).
Also, IIRC, the guide/isolation bracket for the positve battery cable clips to the exhaust manifold stay (bracket).
While the turbo is out, now is a good time to replace the o-rings and seals on the turbo oil return line.
EPC diagram attached.

If the PS of the block is awash in grimy,oily sludge, the most likely culprit is a long-standing leak from the valvecover gasket.
A rag dipped in diesel fuel will make for easy removal of most of the grime, now that the manifolds are off.

I'm curious as to why you needed to remove the turbo?

gregp1962 · #22 02-19-2019, 05:42 PM

I started out only wanting to replace the manifold gasket. Then my starter went out. So, I figured I could get to the starter with the manifolds out and check out the turbo while I'm at it. I will also do the O rings as suggested. First, to get the grime off, I'll start with a putty knife. Then the diesel covered rag. Will alcohol also clean it well? Alcohol doesn't smell as bad as diesel. My wife is very sensitive to smells in the garage.

Alec300SD · #23 02-19-2019, 06:01 PM

A small scrap piece of wet nylon carpeting will remove the grime without marring the engine paint, and have no noxious fumes.

Does require a bit more elbow grease though.

gregp1962 · #24 02-20-2019, 01:20 PM

Assuming the valve cover gasket is the culprit for all this grime, what is to best way to cure it? I adjusted the valves a few weeks ago so I do have a new gasket on it now. I'm not convinced it will not continue to leak.

ROLLGUY · #25 02-20-2019, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregp1962

Assuming the valve cover gasket is the culprit for all this grime, what is to best way to cure it? I adjusted the valves a few weeks ago so I do have a new gasket on it now. I'm not convinced it will not continue to leak.

The best way I have found to keep VC gaskets from leaking, is to use Gaskacinch on the cover before placing the gasket, and then on the gasket where it seals against the head. Of course both surfaces need to be free of any oil. I like to let the cover sit, and drain any oil off the sides before applying the sealer and gaskets.

gregp1962 · #26 02-20-2019, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

The best way I have found to keep VC gaskets from leaking, is to use Gaskacinch on the cover before placing the gasket, and then on the gasket where it seals against the head. Of course both surfaces need to be free of any oil. I like to let the cover sit, and drain any oil off the sides before applying the sealer and gaskets.

I've heard it both ways. I've heard people say that you should put the valve cover gasket bare and others say something like Gaskacinch is good. What do others think?

Alec300SD · #27 02-20-2019, 07:31 PM

X 2, on using Gasgacinch on both sides of the valvecover gasket.

I use a wooden dowel with a shop rag to wick the oil out of the rocker arm recesses.

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