300SDL wheel bolt/lug snapped. What next? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ah-kay · #1 03-12-2019, 08:10 PM

I don't know what happened as I don't normally over-tighten the lugs. I want to swap the tires but I had 3 bolts on the front passenger side wouldn't budge. The rest came off easily. I tried to use a breaker bar and 1 snapped off. I hesitate to do the other 2. I remembered I sprayed WD40 on the bolts before I torqued it, may be it was over torqued due to the oil. Now what next? Any ideas would be welcome?

btw: the rim is disposable if necessary.

Maximan1 · #2 03-12-2019, 08:21 PM

Is the snapped off bolt holding the wheel on? If not, remove the rest of the bolts and pull the wheel off, see if you can get the rest of the stud out by hand.

If you can't get the wheel off, you'll have to start drilling.

Use an impact wrench on the other wheel bolts if you have access to one.

ah-kay · #3 03-12-2019, 08:43 PM

The snapped off bolt is holding the wheel on. I think I need to drill it out. I have impact wrench but the other 2 don't want to budge either. 3 out of 5 won't come out, it is not my lucky day.

Maximan1 · #4 03-12-2019, 08:47 PM

Pneumatic or electric impact? 3/8" or 1/2" drive?

If it's a small or electric impact, run down to a tire shop and see if they'll unbolt them for you.

ah-kay · #5 03-12-2019, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maximan1

Pneumatic or electric impact? 3/8" or 1/2" drive?

If it's a small or electric impact, run down to a tire shop and see if they'll unbolt them for you.

Pneumatic 1/2" drive but the 2 bolts will not budge. I probably will soak them with penetrating oil and blow torch it and see what happen. It is a pain but car is still driveable.

EDBSO · #6 03-12-2019, 09:23 PM

I have had several frozen wheel bolts on the ‘99 300TD and
I have perfected a removal method that has not broken one.

Tools required.
- large t bar
- 8 pound sledge
- blocks of wood

Methodology.
Put the t bar on the seized bolt.
Suppport the other end of the t bar level with the wood blocks.
With you backside to or on the fender.
Lift up on the left side of the t bar
Step down on the right hand side of the t bar
Firmly, really firmly strike the end of the t bar against the bolt as you lift up and step down, let the vibrations do their majic and the bolt should come out.
(Clarification, strike the other end of the t bar that is on the nut)(wack the end that is supported by the wood). The vibrations travel down the length of the t bar to the bolt and into the threads and the bolt loosens.
All of mine have loosened using this method.

Good luck

Maxbumpo · #7 03-12-2019, 09:39 PM

If you use the torch, find a thin steel pipe just large enough to fit over the head of the bolt but slip inside the hole in the wheel. This will act as a heat shield to focus the heat on the bolt, not melt your aluminum wheel. Pipe needs to be about 4 inches long. Hold with a big pliers so you don't get burned.

ah-kay · #8 05-27-2020, 05:52 PM

Car is fixed awhile back. I sacrificed the caliper , rotor and the wheel/tire.

This is what I did. Removed the spindle lock nut, removed the 2 nuts that holds the 2 halves of the caliper, caliper nuts, this allowed me to remove the wheel and rotor together. Replaced them from my junk car. Problem solved.