Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-16-2019, 01:27 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 3,777
Is there a w123 transmission mount test?

Did my engine mounts, one was somewhat compressed (not terribly but to be expected). Engine stop and AT mount look great. But if I’m doing other work, would like to determine if they are needed. I guess I could do them anytime in the future... but is there a “simple” test besides their look, to see if replacement is prudent?

__________________
Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-16-2019, 02:21 PM
Maximan1's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 239
I check to see if mounts are compressed or coming apart, as well as give them a few good pokes to see how soft they are. Every mount I've touched on my '79 240D has been bad (pretty much rock solid), which probably was exasperated by the 4 cylinder vibrating more than the 5 cylinder would. I had low compression on one cylinder (when the OM616 still ran) which made the shaking worse.

I like to replace all the mounts.
__________________
Milan Brown 1979 240D (dead), currently rebuilding a 1985 OM617 to swap in.

1996 Honda Civic (daily driver)

Instagram: @maximed93
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-16-2019, 02:41 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 3,777
That’s the thing. My 240d is really clean and always garage kept. Low miles.

The rubber is soft and not cracked. Which is what makes it confusing to me. I get the general concept to replace everything, but given the quality of many parts anymore due to offshoring, I might be better off keeping the OE part.

Was kind of thinking if the height and location of the through bolt on the mount, relative to the hardware on the crossmember, might be indicative of sag or compression. The image above would indicate to me that the mount is good...
__________________
Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-16-2019, 02:50 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 27,004
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
Did my engine mounts, one was somewhat compressed (not terribly but to be expected). Engine stop and AT mount look great. But if I’m doing other work, would like to determine if they are needed. I guess I could do them anytime in the future... but is there a “simple” test besides their look, to see if replacement is prudent?



The corner on the left of the pic looks like you had a fluid leak on it softened and swelled a little.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-16-2019, 03:02 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 3,777
I’ll have to look again. As I recall, that’s the thin clear semi-glossy coating that flakes off.

But noted and need to look again.

Even if so, it’s not apparent to me that the mount has sagged or failed.
__________________
Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-16-2019, 03:39 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,582
Perhaps not perfect but appears quite serviceable. I doubt a meaningful test really exists. Badly rotted or really compressed I would think otherwise. It is also not a situation where that part is going to leave you stranded on the side of the road.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-16-2019, 04:39 PM
Maximan1's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 239
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
That’s the thing. My 240d is really clean and always garage kept. Low miles.

The rubber is soft and not cracked. Which is what makes it confusing to me. I get the general concept to replace everything, but given the quality of many parts anymore due to offshoring, I might be better off keeping the OE part.
Normally I would agree, but a rubber mount that's been in the car for 35+ years is something I would replace regardless (though I would keep the original around, just in case). Would you drive on a spare that's been in clean dry trunk for 35 years?

That said, there are issues with quality on new parts. Cheap motor mounts lasted me 8 months before collapsing worse than the old ones. I got a new trans mount (granted, it was from autozone) for my '96 Civic about 3 months ago and it's already gone bad. I do beat the crap out of that car daily, but a motor or trans mount should last longer than 3 months.
__________________
Milan Brown 1979 240D (dead), currently rebuilding a 1985 OM617 to swap in.

1996 Honda Civic (daily driver)

Instagram: @maximed93
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-16-2019, 05:56 PM
Shern's Avatar
Earnest Spring-whisperer
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 584
I'm assuming you also have the manual transmission?
My mount looked similar before I replaced it... and now I honestly can't tell much difference, if any at all.
__________________
1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-16-2019, 06:17 PM
Maximan1's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 239
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shern View Post
I'm assuming you also have the manual transmission?
My mount looked similar before I replaced it... and now I honestly can't tell much difference, if any at all.
You will notice bad mounts way more in an auto than in a manual.
__________________
Milan Brown 1979 240D (dead), currently rebuilding a 1985 OM617 to swap in.

1996 Honda Civic (daily driver)

Instagram: @maximed93
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-16-2019, 07:43 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 184
When I purchased my 220D the PO didn't have a transmission mount attached at all.

I installed one and the bracket from my spare parts stash and lo and behold.. there is no difference in feeling. Go figure. (manual trans)
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-16-2019, 08:23 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 3,777
Mine is an AT.
__________________
Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-17-2019, 01:52 AM
okyoureabeast's Avatar
Rogue T Tolerant
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North America
Posts: 1,506
It looks ok, but if you're planning on doing any work on the drive shaft, I'd replace him while you're in there.

Replacing mine improved the coasting . Felt tighter. The mounts are cheap so why not?
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:24 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page