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#31
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Just re-read my original post. I have a power steering PUMP off an 83 300D on the shelf, not a box.....if you are interested......
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter) |
#32
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With all of this going on and with your limited experience do the following. ( And this is coming from pro not a DIY guy. ) Elevate the front wheels and with the engine off, turn the steering wheel. It should turn in both directions without any issue. If OK then the steering box should be OK. I'm really thinking you have never dealt with loss of power assist / a manual steering car. There is a small chance the suspension ball joints are so rusty they are binding. When this occurs the car is basically undrivable / catches a groove in the road / wanders violently due to the wheels not finding their own center. If the car drive smooth before the pump issue, rusted ball joints are not likely. Get a known good used pump and have someone experienced in building pumps reseal it. Any good mechanic can do this. You could have the current pump resealed but I'd be concerned that the shaft bushing is worn or damaged and would cause a leak. Also I'd be concerned that the current pump has missing / damaged parts from a home repair that a mechanic might miss if not familiar with this specific type of pump. Bleeding the power steering system isn't as big of a deal that some make it out to be. 1) Fill with fluid to the cold mark not the, the hot mark. 2) Elevate front wheels ( just to make it easier to turn ) , 3) Start engine , 4) Stop engine 5) check fluid level 6) start engine 7)Turn to full lock in both directions 2 x ( Don't hold the wheel hard on the stop as this elevates hydraulic pressure and aerates fluid ) 8) Stop engine, 9) Check fluid level / leaks. 10) Add fluid if needed 11) If the fluid is foamy, let it sit for a few minutes / until the fluid is clear. 12) repeat 5 - 11 as needed. Generally it only takes 2 go rounds to get things clear. |
#33
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I know this will sound absurd after reading about my previous mishap but I think I did actually rebuild and reinstall the pump correctly, albeit with the wrong seal. Ha ha! I went through the actual steps correctly though. I feel confident that I can correctly reseal the pump with the right parts at this point. Whether or not I did permanent damage to the pump or box remains to be seen though. I actually did use that link: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W123/52-ENGINE-Power_Steering_Pump_Rebuild/52-ENGINE-Power_Steering_Pump_Rebuild.htm as my guide and I made sure to follow it perfectly. In fact, I think I was so focused on following the steps correctly, I spaced on the fact that I had the wrong kit. Oh, and yes, I live Los Angeles. I've already figured out the correct parts, ordered them from Pelican and received them yesterday. I bought the seals and some more power steering fluid. I'm going to take another stab at the reseal and if I fail this time I will definitely buy another one or probably have someone else do the work. Thanks for the feedback! |
#34
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I already bought the correct seals and want to give it one more shot. If I fail again, I will definitely be hitting you up about buying yours. Thanks so much for the offer. I'll let you know soon if I need it.
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#35
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Thanks for the step by step breakdown though, I'll really appreciate it. I'll definitely follow it. |
#36
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We all approach our cars differently. I've been able to cross the river jordan with much help and assistance from this forum. That said, there are still a few repair problems I outsource.
Rebuildling transmissions and engines are among those items. Also, I will not attempt to rebuild steering pumps or steering GEARS. I've located an extremely knowledgeable shop in town that can rebuild/remanufacture almost anything on german cars. I'm planning on pulling out the steering gear on the 1991 560SEL and having them rebuild it. Could I do it? Possibly, but why take the risk when such expert help is just around the corner! |
#37
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I can't believe the nonsense I've read in this thread. Thankfully 97 SL320 among others have chimed in with accurate information.
If the OP needs any more assurance about the steering box I recondition these steering boxes regularly and have done over 150 of them. Your box is fine. Had you emptied the fluid out of the bottom of the box it might have less lubrication in it and I wouldn't run it very long, but short of draining the box you're just fine. The worst boxes I've ever received to be reconditioned were those who had water in the system, the fluid was never changed, the box was "cooked" by an improperly insulated exhaust system or had particulates in the system. Again, your box is fine.
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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes! 1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k 1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered 1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold] |
#38
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***UPDATE***
I'm happy to report that I now have a properly resealed and reinstalled power steering pump with upgraded enhanced power steering fluid. I no longer have leaks and most importantly.... my steering wheel is not locked up and it once again, turns left and right freely. What a relief!!! I can now move on to my next project, my temperature gauge (I'll post about that in a new post.) Thanks to everyone for their comments and tips. |
#39
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Just for completeness.
Please turn the ignition key to the run position but do not crank or start the engine. With the engine not running, try and turn the steering wheel. Is the steering locked as it was before? |
#40
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Nope, it's all good now. I was driving it around last night. The steering wheel turns nice and smooth now. Thanks for your input.
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#41
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My goal is to show the steering was never locked and that you only lost power assist. At some point, your engine might stall, power steering hose fail , pump drive belt fail and the loss of power assist _WILL_ cause you to crash. Not because the steering actually locked up but because you are unfamiliar with the loss of power assist. If for some nearly impossible reason the steering is actually locked when hydraulic pressure is lost, this is a major safety hazard that needs immediate attention as every car can be driven with loss of power assist. Proceed at your own ( and other road users ) peril. |
#42
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Ahh, I see now. I will try it when I get home from work and am able to access the car. Thanks for the info. |
#43
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Okay, so I elevated the front of the car, turned the key to the run position (without cranking or starting the engine) and the steering wheel turned left and right freely. I'm assuming that's a good thing, right?
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#44
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Good so far. Please try the same thing with the front wheels on the ground. |
#45
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Okay, so with the wheels on the ground and with the key in the run position it does not turn as freely. It turns freely when I start the engine though. Does this mean that I am indeed having a power assist issue? If so, what now? I know the car is having some vacuum issues so is this all related?
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