My question is concerning the rack stabilizer adjustment. I am working on a slightly rough idle and noticed that I would have to use the wrench to run the adjustment bolt in further.should I be feeling that much resistance or should I be able to use my fingers to run this in? I appreciate the assistance, this website has helped me cure a myriad of small issues. I picked up a 1982 300D that has been in long-term storage due to a bad transmission. I installed a transmission this week and all is good except for a few minor issues. Again thank you for your assistance. I would like to add that the bolt is not screwed in very far.

Is this a new or old one? I believe the rack stabilizer is there to take out a little extra shake on an engine that is with in specs. It may not compensate for some out of spec issue.

To adjust it you should back it out so it has no effect on the idle rpm.

Adjust your idle speed with the Idle Adjustment Screw (not the rack stabilizer). How fast of an rpm range is on the emission sticker on mine it has 750 plus or minus 50 rpms so my max it supposed to be 800 rpm but an older engine may take a little more.

Notice that in general the idles is smoother at the higher end of the idle speed range.

Once the regular idle speed has been adjusted you turn in the rack stabilizer screw. What would be ideal is if you got rid of some shaking but did not change your idle speed.
You don't want the idle speed being adjusted with the rack stabilizer.

On mine I found that the new rack stabilizer had a much stronger spring and that the old one had part of the plunger worn off on the tip.

You decide if you want to do it with a Hot engine or cold engine. My shaking showed up after driving the car about 10 minutes and the engine was hot so I did the adjustment hot.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hear is my story: I bought a new Rack Damper Bolt but it did not help much.

Rebuilt my Injectors with new Nozzles (This took away most of the shaking) (Worn out Injector Nozzles and or Injectors with out of spec opening/pop pressures can cause idle shaking.) My stock bosch nozzles were worn out and a the stock nozzles had a tiny passage that was plugged solid with carbon.

Doing a Valve Adjustment (took away some more shaking). If you can adjust the Valves yourself do that first except for the new Valve Cover gasket is free.

Changed Motor and Transmission mounts (took away some more vibration)

Found that I had a small air leak that showed up when the Engine was hot due to hard fuel inlet lines that did not seal even with the clamps tight.

Finally was able to use the Rack Damper Bolt to tune out a little more shake. (that bolt was made to reduce the shake on a new engine; not to compensate for a bunch of worn and out of spec parts

Uneven compression can cause idle shaking and some have said if the Delivery Valves are worn out it can cause idle shaking.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Rough idle check compression, since you have an OM617 your valves may need adjustment.

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Thanks for quick reply.My son has decided to take a 7 k mile trip in the old girl.All new isolation mounts,a valve adustment and wheel bearing service and should be go to go.Again,thank you for the advice.