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  #31  
Old 07-04-2019, 09:08 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Location: New Jersey
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Note there was still issues in that thread, regarding routing.

Thanks for the insight on turbine oil. I was curious what the right viscosity should be. I’m not sure that 3 in 1 is that different than turbine zoom type oil. Is it more detergent or what?

Wonder if there’s anything else that needs to be done to the speedometer cable...

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #32  
Old 07-05-2019, 09:13 AM
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Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
Posts: 7,717
Post "ZOOM" Spout Oiler

This is an amazing product, one I only heard of last year .

The price varies all over the map so check all the vendors before clicking 'buy'.
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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #33  
Old 07-05-2019, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
This is an amazing product, one I only heard of last year .

The price varies all over the map so check all the vendors before clicking 'buy'.
Yeah not much to that stuff. I have the clear white version for sewing machines. Some variants turn yellow fast, which may indicate rapid oxidation. The stuff claims non gumming, but not sure in the long run.

Thinking of using super lube synthetic low viscosity oil which should be more resistant, and has no additives or ptfe.
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #34  
Old 07-09-2019, 07:17 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,268
So, after looking at zoom spout oilers, which generally have ISO 100 or ISO 68 non detergent oil in them, I thought it would be good if something a bit lighter was used. After all, this thing has to spin without viscous drag in conditions below freezing.

I found that Slip2000 EWL is a lot less viscous, as it’s around 20cSt at 40C, versus... 68 or 100cSt.



This:
https://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_ewl.php

Data:
https://www.slip2000.com/downloads/herguthlabs2.pdf

Applied it to the outer side of the bushing:


And the inner side:


I also used some dorman graphite in the cable tube, it flowed right in.



This stuff:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-graphite-cable-lubricant-03344/11245160-P

More solvent than oil. Not sure it was necessary or what...

Now it’s as smooth as any mechanical speedometer that I’ve seen, with just a very slight bounce/wobble below 10 mph, which is very minor compared to before (maybe 1-2mph up to 5-7 MPH then smooth after that).
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #35  
Old 05-03-2020, 10:11 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,268
Finally had the time to do the 240D. Had it out this weekend because it was beautiful out. They reopened state parks so we did a road trip to the beach, and exploring around. Did great for a 65mph cruise about half of the trip, 25-45 the rest. A 240d really shines in that 25-45mph range. Mine is super smooth and a joy to drive at those speeds.

But no speedometer lights!

For some reason I had a much harder time getting this one out and back in than the one in my 300CD. Probably due to door lengths and maybe the seat travel.

It’s just this one screw:



I have some nice thin lead tin solder. And flux. It’s really tough to get the brass clean and bright... I have 14ga automotive rated wire (flame resistant insulation and whatnot), so this time I bought a 100w soldering gun (have a 30-40w iron which is ok but figured the extra heat would speed things up). It worked well. Not saying my soldering skills are great, but I managed to meter out at 0 ohms between the terminals, the backlights in the cluster are nice and bright, and after leaving the lights on for a 5 minute trip, the metal on the potentiometer is cold. So I guess it’s fine...



__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #36  
Old 05-03-2020, 10:28 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
Posts: 7,717
Thumbs up Brighter Dash Lights

Yep ~ this works and isn't hard to do .

I use a shorter bit if stranded wire, I remove the insulation and solder it on .
__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #37  
Old 05-04-2020, 08:27 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,268
Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
Yep ~ this works and isn't hard to do .

I use a shorter bit if stranded wire, I remove the insulation and solder it on .
My original intent was to slip some wire under both brass busses, and then fold it over the top, and solder it there. I figured the friction fit underneath would be suitable electrically, and the soldering would just be for support.

The issue was that as I tried to bend the brass up, I feared it was putting too much strain on the spot weld and the rivet that hold them on. Because the brass is recessed, it’s hard to get a wire under and back out. Maybe if I only used one strand, but that seemed like too small an amount (even though the original wire is pretty fine).

The conundrum then is that the riveted hole is always seemingly dirty and challenging to clean. I tried picks, Emory cloth, and a tiny ignition file. Not great luck. But putting some portion of the wire in the hole gave a nice friction fit.

The potentiometer wire is tiny. Not sure how much current it has to handle, but it’s a good number of little bulbs. Say, 10? And they’re 2-5W each? So it might have to pass 2-4A? So probably not critical but the wire I have is the wire I have, and I didn’t want more unexposed positive conductor under ther so close to the grounding wire group.
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 05-04-2020, 09:34 AM
vwnate1's Avatar
Diesel Dandy
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
Posts: 7,717
Post Potentiometer Repair

I always stuff the wire into the brass rivet holes, you have a 1-- watt soldering gun and I assume you're using rosin core solder, makes it all easy .

Agreed the rheostat's wire is far too flimsy, not great engineering there .

.5 or 1.5 on the bulbs .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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