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Best way to cut off fan clutch? Fan clutch bolt stripped.
A while ago I decided to replace the tensioner and tensioner shock, but the fan clutch bolt stripped.
I thought about using a die grinder but I'm unsure on if it can fit down in their. I'm looking to cut off the tail end of the water pump. Surely a reciprocating saw will work but I don't want to spend too much.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
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Helps to know the year and model of the car you are working on.
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96 E300d |
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So do you have the pump off or is it still on the engine? But by cutting off the clutch it will ruin the pump anyway so it must be off the engine yes.
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#4
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Quote:
It's still on the engine, the water pump is impossible to remove with the fan and fan clutch on.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#5
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Don't the 606 engines use the T-55 Torx bit? How'd you manage to strip that out?
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Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
#6
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Quote:
Nevermind the above response. From what I gathered original OEM where 8mm hex, but OEM replacements where Torx. The fan clutch and pump are original a far as I can tell.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#7
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Take a look at this..........it might give you some ideas: https://www.2carpros.com/questions/mercedes-benz-300d-1997-mercedes-benz-300d-fan-clutch-removal
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96 E300d |
#8
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Quote:
You have my deepest empathy on getting that bolt out. Mine was so seized it stripped out the TOOL, not just the bolt head! I have a thread on here somewhere about it. Clutch and water pump were wasted by the time I got it apart, I only wanted to save the fan blade.
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Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
#9
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Quote:
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#10
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Remove the water pump housing, the unit with the thermostat that the water pump bolts to. The bolts go sideways into block. The fan/clutch/pulley isn’t in the way.
Sixto 98 E320 wagon 02 C320 wagon |
#11
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Hopefully this work, it'll save me from trashing parts.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#12
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Bumping thread, what's the easiest way to remove the sheared bolt? I have no idea how i'm going to remove it once the water pump housing is off.I don't have a vise to secure it with either.
I need to get this done because my shock tensioner is worn.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#13
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Unless I'm missing something really obvious why not just remove the radiator and/or the condenser?
You'd be looking right at the bolt and could utilize any of the standard bolt removal techniques, Ez-out, drill-out, weld a bolt onto the exiting bolt, ect. No need to destroy the water pump, clutch and buy a reciprocating saw. BTW using a reciprocating saw 1 inch from the radiator is a great way to pretty much guarantee you'll be removing the radiator anyways to replace it when your saw blade slips and nicks up a couple rows of highly fragile aluminum in the radiator. It's been awhile since I've removed the radiator on an OM606 but as I recall it takes about 5 minutes.
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98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (123k) 13 GLK250 (135k) 06 E320CDI (323K) 16 C300 (62K) 82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K) |
#14
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I have a feeling attempting to drill it out will be useless, that thing is STUCK in there, plus the bolt is massive. Looking back at the SDL, it tooks ridiculous amounts of force to remove the fan clutch bolt when I did, that one didn't strip.
Tried EZ outs and lefts hand drill bits on mere valve cover bolts with failure. The more I look at it, the more sense it makes to just cut it off. I have a spare water pump and fan clutch.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#15
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If you have a spare pump and clutch, why are you wasting your time trying to save that one? Hit the nearest trash can with it and save your sanity.
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Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
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