If your car (it's been a long time since I worked on a MW pump) doesn't have the drain plug then use a MityVac or it's ilk to suck the oil from the pump. As Sugar Bear said, use mineral oil as a flush. Refill with a good 30wt. oil. I've never used a synthetic oil in the pump but it probably wouldn't hurt it.

You should have a MityVac anyway to trouble shoot vacuum issues. Good reason to buy another toy, err, I mean "tool" to add to your kit.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Following up with Stretch's recommendation.

Things which aren't supposed to go "bump in the night"

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Cheers Mike. I've selected this MOS2 oil for the injection pump. Will give it a good flush.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPL94A4/ref=twister_B00EZJAPNO?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

__________________
Why I will never do business with "DieselKraut" again

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-used-parts-sale-wanted/378935-why-i-will-never-do-business-dieselkraut-again.html

Purchased the car and drove 175 miles from the Cotswolds back to London. The car drove in the most delightful way imaginable - very peppy and fun in the corners (I was expecting a slow barge!)

I've noticed several small issues and things to do (see list below) but found nearly no rust under the car. I did find noticeable engine blowby (demonstrated by the dancing oil cap video below) but the car started somewhat instantly when cold, leaked nothing after the drive, emitted no black or white smoke and drove like a new car (no exaggeration here). The previous owner did share that the car wasn’t used for nine years, which may be the cause:

1) Brakes pulsing under pressure. (Could be uneven/ warped rotors or the front calipers. Rear calipers were just changed)

2) Car pulling slightly to the left.

3) Both Front Doors locks not locking & central locking not operational

4) Engine blow by (filmed here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7zb34QLC9s)

5) Injection pump oil change (Lubro Moly MOS2 10W40) + Diesel Purge + 3 fuel filters

6) Power steering filter(s) and fluid change - (Febi Bilstein -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002LANU9A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1)

7) Manual Transmission Oil change - (Lubro Moly Synthetic fluid- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004GV07R0/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1)

8) All window, sunroof and screen seals need replacing

9) Front windscreen chip needs a repair

10) Gear lever bushings as the lever is very wobbly and imprecise.

11) Check subframe, engine, transmission mounts and driveshaft couplers

12) Lubricate speedometer cable

13) Minor rust repair on left hand side corner underneath rear windscreen.

14) Roof lining needs a thorough cleaning with minor repair

15) Sunroof jammed but doesn't look rusted. Owner swore it worked a few months ago but I can't hear the motor engage.

16) Series to pencil glowplug upgrade

That's all I can find so far!

__________________
Why I will never do business with "DieselKraut" again

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-used-parts-sale-wanted/378935-why-i-will-never-do-business-dieselkraut-again.html

At the risk of turning this into one the famous Peach Parts "oil threads" that looks a bit too modern too me!


I'd just change it with what ever is meant to be in there (see owners manual)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Like I said there's a fair amount of nice technology hidden under than rather boring German jacket



Brakes - could be the discs - but check the front wheel bearing end play / float too



Check tracking but only after you've checked the rubber parts in the suspension system - there could be worn parts that need replacing - no sense chasing your tail



Check vacuum - but make sure the mechanical parts work perfectly first



Do several oil changes and drive it for a bit - could get better with use




If you must! Bit of a BW fetish if you ask me!



Febi filters are usually 'king wank


Take a good look at the power steering pressure and return lines - often the oil has eaten the insides and you get bits of rubber floating about in the fluid




Changing to an oil that's not what the book wants (in this case it is ATF if I remember correctly) usually causes nasty shifting trouble



Wait till you see the prices!


Needs to be done in the UK though - this is the #1 (OK perhaps #2!) reason why old cars die in the UK



Go Kwikfit!



Just do the parts under the shifter first



Good plan - will transform the car



Does it squeak?


Often difficult to get access to MB speedo cables



Uh oh!



That'll be fun



Electric on a W115? WOW!



I wouldn't bother! Why change it for the sake of it?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Cheers Stretch! I don't have the requisite skills to do all of the above but will take a shot at as many as I can!

Would you replace the Master brake cylinder as a precaution given the history is unknown?

__________________
Why I will never do business with "DieselKraut" again

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-used-parts-sale-wanted/378935-why-i-will-never-do-business-dieselkraut-again.html

Nope!


I would leave as many original parts on the vehicle as possible


Often:- Modern stuff just isn't as good as the old


I have found that servicing / cleaning the old is often more reliable than "buying new because you think new is better". Admittedly things aren't as bad as they were ten years ago when the cost cutting box shifting mentality meant things were sometimes broken in the box (!) but even so things like an original 1970s / 80s Bosch alternator even with worn bearings will probably out last a new cheapo unbranded effort. Replace the Bosch bearings with new - tart up the windings if necessary and hey ho potentially another 40 years decent service from the original...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The key is in the servicing and the boring cleaning - put in the effort cleaning and you will be rewarded. Unfortunately cos of the cost of labour rates vs cheap parts, the attitude is often to just put on new - but I don't think in the long run you get the better deal.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Bingo. I've gone through a couple "rebuild" calipers to find debris inside straight from the parts store.

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Are factory power sunroof's rare?

__________________
Why I will never do business with "DieselKraut" again

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-used-parts-sale-wanted/378935-why-i-will-never-do-business-dieselkraut-again.html

Power sunroofs on four door W123s in Europe are quite rare - more of a coupe thing - I'm surprised to hear you have one on a W115


Try and get the VIN data from your local friendly Mercedes dealership - it should help you identify any other interesting options

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Noticed this strange squeal when I tapped the throttle on cold start idle while in neutral.

https://youtu.be/EKboTsw5kRE

Only suggestion received for that sound ^ is likely a lose fan belt.

I checked the mpg today - 30 mpg US/ 36 mpg UK. This sounds about right for this model. Given this and that the engine uses no oil and leaks no oil (not a drop on the ground), I'm optimistic I can reduce the blowby.

I have no service history so need to ask if the blowby can be caused due to vacuum pump issues (central locking not working) and/ or unadjusted valves/ tappets?

__________________
Why I will never do business with "DieselKraut" again

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-used-parts-sale-wanted/378935-why-i-will-never-do-business-dieselkraut-again.html

What can happen with the vacuum system is that oil gets past the pump and into the system itself. There is meant to be a check valve (as they say here) == non return valve that sometimes falls victim to the oily gunk.

Go have a look - I'm sure it will be apparent - yet again it is all about the cleaning...

...sometimes I think 90% of what I end up doing on old cars is essentially just cleaning

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!