W115 Owner Advice Needed: Buying a 1976 240D - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Screwdriva · #31 05-15-2019, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

...sometimes I think 90% of what I end up doing on old cars is essentially just cleaning

Aren't those the best kind of cars?

Stretch · #32 05-15-2019, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Screwdriva

Aren't those the best kind of cars?

Actually yes - often the ones that need a good clean come cheaper than the ones that have been tarted up

Screwdriva · #33 05-15-2019, 06:34 PM

Strangely, the car has been shutting off a couple times during deceleration/ coasting to a stop. This has typically happened after I take my foot off the throttle and shift to neutral. Starts back up though.

Is this caused by something well known?

Stretch · #34 05-16-2019, 11:32 AM

I'd check the idle speed after you've done all the service things like fuel filters etc

cleeves · #35 05-16-2019, 11:11 PM

By rebuilding my fuel injectors, I went from burning a quart of oil every 50 miles to a quart every 1000 miles. Two of my injectors were pissing a straight line of fuel and it was knocking something mean. Went from max 65 MPH on a flat highway to over 90 post-rebuild. The results were astounding. If oil burning is an issue, I highly recommend this.

Henry

Screwdriva · #36 05-17-2019, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cleeves

The results were astounding. If oil burning is an issue, I highly recommend this.
Henry

Hasn't burnt any oil at all in nearly 200 miles. I would have expected a motor with blowby to do this but it has zero consumption or leaks (not a drop on the ground where its parked). Good power too! Struggle to start without throttle when cold though.

math · #37 05-17-2019, 12:19 PM

I would check the spring(s) on the back of the injection pump if it's cutting out. Just make sure your idle and return spring are functioning properly, i have had one of them fail on me in the past.

Screwdriva · #38 05-19-2019, 02:09 PM

Picture of the car with the nice British couple who helped me find it!

Screwdriva · #39 05-26-2019, 04:23 PM

Following parts being ordered from Mercedes Benz:

1) Bonnet Hood pad Part # 114 682 14 26 (W114 6 Cyl part # hopefully will fit my diesel)
2) Both replacement drive belts
3) Rocker cover gasket (for after the valve adjustment)
4) Engine stabilizer dampener (don't know the part number)
5) Turn indicator relay (The darn thing stopped flashing)
6) Alternator mounting bolts & nuts (Missing one at the very bottom of the alternator it would appear)
7) Front R&L brake rotors, front hose and brake pads and associated replacement hardware (pins etc.)
8) Replacement oil filter with replacement washer, rubber seal and pre-filter
9) Front R&L Anti- Roll bar drop links
10) All door, sunroof and windscreen seals ($ Ouch!)
11) Fuel filters
12) Gear lever bushing set
13) Monark hand primer pump (not from the dealer but looks way better than the Bosch)
14) Engine mounts
15) A boatload of the best fluids and additives out there! (see pic)

The driveshaft couplers, axle boots and subframe mounts look OK. Definitely not pristine but not collapsed or cracking in any way. Haven't looked at the strut top rubber but I'm guessing its the same. Would you recommend I preemptively replace any of those or anything else I've missed?

Screwdriva · #40 05-27-2019, 04:21 PM

Despite the above, took the car out for a 100 mile drive. Regularly hit 80mph with a one time 90mph max speed hit. Drove like a charm but the car shut itself off twice when to shifting out of gear to neutral to come to a stop.

Screwdriva · #41 06-19-2019, 05:16 AM

A few hopefully tasteful "modifications" making their way into the car:

1) A OE hood pad from the 280E. Not sure how much of a difference this will make to sound deadening but worth a shot.
2) 14 X 5.5 "Steelie" alloy wheels replacing the steel wheels
3) "Coverdale" OE looking floor mats for the car. (As seen on Wheeler Dealers)

t walgamuth · #42 06-19-2019, 08:34 AM

Sounds good!

vox_incognita · #43 06-20-2019, 07:07 AM

Screwdriva, did you get the proper oil for the transmission? It takes ATF (well, the obsolete Type A Suffix A spec and most folks use Dexron ).

About the shutting issue - it might be something like:
-not properly adjusted throttle linkages
-sticking (occasionally?) rack damper (dirt,gummed up...).If it is sticking in aft the diaphragm will tend to pull the rack further towards the "stop delivery" position .

IP rack at idling position

-IP rack sees some harder to pass spot somewhere around aft position ..
I'd change the filters,make sure the IP oil is up to the correct level, make sure the fuel supply system is air-tight and in-spec pressure-wise(I guess the rubber hoses are still the factory ones) , and adjust the idle speed and all linkages,engine hot.

On changing the IP oil (use a syringe and plastic tubing,amazon has them,via the oil fill hole), look whether there is excessive fuel dilution . The MoS2 oil is not a very good idea imho...

What brand full-flow oil filter(the plastic mesh) did you get? These are getting rare...

Screwdriva · #44 06-22-2019, 03:58 PM

Vox, I was planning on using the Liquid Moly oil for the tranny,differential and injection pump unless I find anything concrete that would suggest otherwise.

All filters have been changed but will clean, lubricate and adjust the throttle linkages as you suggest. Don't know enough about the injection pump to comment on the internal component suggestions you've made and would appreciate any additional details you can share (as Im sure you don't mean the steering rack damper).

I buy all my filters from Mercedes Benz where they have the mesh in stock. Is that not the case Stateside?

vox_incognita · #45 06-23-2019, 09:40 PM

I had in mind the sliding (control) rack(rod in some docs.) in IP that controls the injected fuel volumes. Its position (and consequently the inj. quantity) is determined by the changing forces of the vacuum present in the vacuum chamber(the rear side of the diaphragm) and the force of the control spring.
Vacuum loss along the line from the intake to the IP vacuum chamber or a cracked diaphragm will result in greater injected fuel volumes as the control spring will push the rack to the front towards "full load inj. volumes"...tight spots along the path of the control rack (rust;gummed up deposits;excessive oil/fuel mixture in the IP pump sump) will hinder the ease of movement of the control rack and will "feel like something is not quite right here". Nine years of sitting unused is not a short time and you're not certain what fuel was last used (it must have been ultra-low sulphur diesel per EU regulations but we're not sure of the amount of FAME back then).
Add to it old filters or air in the fuel supply system and/or lower than necessary supply pressure...
So like Stretch suggested above do the basic maintenance steps (changing the fuel filters ; inspect for cracked/old fuel hoses and clamps;purge air properly;correct oil level in the IP sump etc.)..then check and adjust the idle speed at the intake flap at recommended conditions (motor and oil warmed up)..adjust the linkages if needed and do the test to see whether the problem with the engine shutoff persists.
Do it under varying conditions and road slopes:
-let off the gas pedal while in gear as if approaching intersection,shift to neutral...
-accelerate swiftly,then shift to neutral as if you're preparing to engage higher gear but remain in neutral ...
-let off the throttle while in gear and on a downward slope using the braking power of the engine for some time...switch to neutral and slow down to halt...
...or whatever else you can think of and see how it behaves.

The manual transmissions need ATF . MB still insists on the obsolete (now available in packaging >20l. only ) ATF Type A Suffix A.
I have no idea why this is so. There might be special considerations about the frictional properties of the fluid and the proper function of the synchros MB used . The virtual unavailability of TASA fluids made the MB owners use later specs like Dexron II,IID etc. (with no harm reportedly).

https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/bevo-sheets-sort1.html

https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/231.1_en.html

List of MB approved TASA fluids:
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/236.2_en.html
...add to it:
https://www.smithandallan.com/documents/Shell_Spirax_S1_ATF_TASA_(en-)_TDS%20(1).pdf

If you insist using it a visit with an empty jug to to a agri supply store or truck/farm/road construction machinery lube place might be fruitful. The fluid itself is cheap but the dealer charges 27-30 USD for 1l. bottle (part # A 000 989 26 03 10).

The diff takes hypoid GL-5 xw-90 fluid .

I don't know how Monark primer pumps look like but newer Bosch units are just fine (made in Austria).

Some read for the pneumatically governed IP function:
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Engine/615/07-010.pdf

There is a vertical lever from the valve cover V-shaped lever to the IP "butt bolt" lever. This should be raised just a little (one mm.)to be attached to V-lever. This "butt bolt" ; Stupser(german); "stop bolt" or whatever else they may call it in various docs also has the function to "dampen" the vibrations of the control rack at idle and partial load conditions by the spring #18. The whole "stop bolt housing" is a sliding cylinder whose position is determined by the position of the vertical lever. Make sure the lever is attached at both ends and that it actually rotates the shaft at the IP rear end changing the position of cam #15.

Mann-Hummel , Knecht-Mahle and Hengst used to offer aftermarket plastic mesh oil filters(which is your full-flow oil filter...it is not a "pre-filter"). Mann-Hummel o5001 is NLA and I won't be surprised if the other two have seized production too. Since it's reusable it is convenient to have two(one readily cleaned) alternating them at OCI.