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  #1  
Old 05-26-2019, 05:59 PM
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Posts: 122
Mint-ish 300sd acquired- how should I preserve it?

As title says. I bought a 1983 300SD that has been wrecked slightly on the front passenger side.

Other than that, it's a time capsule. Original spare, never on the ground. Stored Indoors its whole life. 156k miles. Original first aid kit. Lots of paperwork. Excellent paint. Everything works except the rear right window, and the passenger mirror adjustment.

With all that in mind, I've only owned trashed om616/617 w123 diesels over the past few years . To the point of it not being worth restoring cosmetically, but just to keep in good mechanical shape and on the road.

This one is so awesome that I want to keep it in tip top shape. I want to preserve it.

What are some first steps to take? Like for instance, with the air conditioning system? It works wonderfully even in the southern US summer heat, but should I do something just to confirm everything is in working order?

I know the basics, and some things I'm already getting on the way (fluid/filter changes on everything, change belts, valve adjustment, replace air cleaner mount and rubber bushings, air cleaner elbow rubber seals need replacing, air filter, etc etc)

But anything I should look for specifically?

Pics never hurt

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fNjJsUKAsZRiotht9
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'83 240D 4spd
'83 240D Slushbox
'83 300D + Mud tires
'83 300SD
'89 300SEL
'00 CNG Crown Victoria
'10 E63
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  #2  
Old 05-27-2019, 04:20 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,453
Quote:
Originally Posted by dinman View Post
As title says. I bought a 1983 300SD that has been wrecked slightly on the front passenger side.

Other than that, it's a time capsule. Original spare, never on the ground. Stored Indoors its whole life. 156k miles. Original first aid kit. Lots of paperwork. Excellent paint. Everything works except the rear right window, and the passenger mirror adjustment.

With all that in mind, I've only owned trashed om616/617 w123 diesels over the past few years . To the point of it not being worth restoring cosmetically, but just to keep in good mechanical shape and on the road.

This one is so awesome that I want to keep it in tip top shape. I want to preserve it.

What are some first steps to take? Like for instance, with the air conditioning system? It works wonderfully even in the southern US summer heat, but should I do something just to confirm everything is in working order?

I know the basics, and some things I'm already getting on the way (fluid/filter changes on everything, change belts, valve adjustment, replace air cleaner mount and rubber bushings, air cleaner elbow rubber seals need replacing, air filter, etc etc)

But anything I should look for specifically?

Pics never hurt

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fNjJsUKAsZRiotht9

I might be wrong but it sounds like you might need some cleaning tips!


Cleaning is boring but it is the best way to keep an eye on things - you are bound to find things when you clean a car - in some ways I'd like to wash every car I'm considering to buy (!) but I guess I'd be chased out of town...


...avoid "easy" cleaning options like stem cleaners and pressure washers - these are way too powerful for old cars - you can end up causing damage.


I advocate a decent old fashioned water in bucket wash with a soft haired brush (that's meant for washing cars). Never ever use a sponge to wash a dirty car - the chances of scratching paint and glass surfaces are too high.


After washing a decent wax will not only help to preserve but will help with the next clean / wash


####


The biggest problem with old cars is water ingress (never use pressure washers!) so look very very carefully at all of the bodywork seals. Clean - preserve with something like Aerospace 303


####


Leaves!


Bastards!


Pine needles!


Bastards!


Clean out drains


Remove door cards and check inside doors - make sure you refit the plastic sheeting barriers under the door cards properly and carefully



########




Under chassis mud - clean away


Do not smear bitumastic goo or any other "rust proofing" underseal gunk on the underside if the factory plastic crap is still intact. This is an utter waste of money time and effort...




########


Cavity waxes - good products that are sometimes used badly (!)


You have to clean and treat any rust before squirting this magic juice in your car - make sure these products don't block the drains





#######


If you want more detailing DIY tips have a look for Chris Fix on the toob of yew
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #3  
Old 05-27-2019, 08:22 AM
oldsinner111's Avatar
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I would inspect flex joints first,a dropped driveshaft,can messed things up,then all rubber suspension,and steering,followed by brake lines.Then wiring,as these cars can burn
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  #4  
Old 05-27-2019, 09:30 AM
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Location: Newport News, Virginia
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Depends on how far you want to go down the rabbit hole of detailing, if you want to car to stay in mint and be easy to maintain I suggest the following.

Prep your paint. This will rid ALL contaminants before you seal off the paint.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGkNZUc8aJc

DO NOT use a brush of any kind, it will ruin your paint, the whole detailing community will agree.
After the paint is prepared, you now need to preserve it, there's 3 options.

Wax - Standard issue, does the job but is pita to apply, doesn't last as long as other options.

Sealant - It's essentially a modernized wax, outperforms wax in every regard, easier to apply, last longer and beads/protects better, think of it as a synthetic blend oil. I HIGHLY recommend a good sealant.

Ceramic coating - Absolute best protection bar none, known to last 1 year and is very durable, outperforms sealants and waxes in regards to water beading. It actually forms a hard ceramic barrier above your paint. Because of this it will nearly eliminate scratching from washing. Extremely easy to apply. It's like your synthetic oil for your car. Only drawback is price.

Just go here, they know more than any of us here, and they'll get you started on equipment needed etc. sign up asap! Great forum.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/
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1997 E300 Captain Slow - 218,000 miles

2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - New daily driver.

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  #5  
Old 05-27-2019, 09:30 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,734
If stored in a garage attached to a house. A battery post switch is cheap insurance. Just remember to use it. Preserving a car is also limiting the miles you put on it to some extent. Chasing everything down you find.

I have a 1984 300d I intend to keep up well and limit use. It has similar milage to yours and is really good overall. Other than it should be re painted unfortunately.

I assume some of the kids or grandchildren may get some of our cars. I also have a lower milage 114 coupe. To say these were less than desirable when I picked up the better example is true. I just like the way it drives and handles. It too has a pristine original interior. They are slowly becoming more acceptable.
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  #6  
Old 05-27-2019, 01:59 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 122
Thanks guys! All good stuff

I have washed it and treated it as I would my 2010 E63. Clean, soft wash mitt, quality soap, 2 clean buckets, water hose, etc. Now I just need to clay bar or maybe just wax it.

Upon inspecting the undercarriage, all suspension components and driveline components are in excellent shape except for the front lower ball joints. Both of them have cracked boots, and have leaked most of the grease out and I imagine, taken on dirt. Will replace them asap. I've done them on my w123, I'm sure it's not drastically different.

Guide rod bushings were replaced ~2 years ago on this car.

Super excited about this car. I've never been able to experience one in the condition they were meant to be experienced in.
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'83 240D 4spd
'83 240D Slushbox
'83 300D + Mud tires
'83 300SD
'89 300SEL
'00 CNG Crown Victoria
'10 E63
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  #7  
Old 05-27-2019, 02:39 PM
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Location: Alhambra California
Posts: 2,067
If the AC system is blowing cold from all vents it is probably in pretty good shape. Some items to check/change include:

Fan belts
Coolant (change)
Transmission Service
Oil & filter change
Fuel filters (change)
Fuel screen in the tank
Valve adjustment
Air filter (change)
Air Filter Can mounts
Rubber brake hoses (check and change if found leaking or with cracks)
Date codes on tires (if older than 5 years best to change tires unless you plan on city, close to home driving only)
Replace all fuses with copper fuses
Check Rear axle boots for cracks/leaks
Check the driveshaft center support
Check the age of the battery
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  #8  
Old 05-27-2019, 06:46 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: South Florida
Posts: 253
Splendid find!

1. The blue dashes for some reason are most prone to cracking. Yours is like new. To keep it like this always use a full coverage sunvisor when parked outside, and regularly apply 303 protectant.

2. I have the same splitting at the seam in the rear seat at the top middle. The leather dries out and becomes tight as a drum and splits. Apply leather conditioner and also cover it.

3. If the AC is running 134a this is known to lead to the early demise of the R4 compressor not built for the higher pressure that refrigerant runs at. I'd recommend switching it to R12 (which requires changing to R12 compatible oil) or a hydrocarbon refrigerant like duracool or enviro-safe (which does not require changing the oil).

4. Check under battery tray for lifetime accumulation of leaves resulting in constant moisture and rust. Also check under plastic cowling where the wiper motor lives. A permanent layer of dirt which never gets cleaned can also have lead to rust.
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  #9  
Old 05-28-2019, 04:00 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 81
I had the same car. Bought it when it was about 5 years old. The frame rusted in the area of the front of the car. Suspension and steering parts connect to the frame. It was too big of a problem so the car went to the scrap yard with 325,000 miles. Engine and transmission still working well.
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  #10  
Old 05-29-2019, 06:46 AM
Bengoshi2000's Avatar
1991 300D 2.5 Turbo
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 268
Quote:
Originally Posted by Father Of Giants View Post
Depends on how far you want to go down the rabbit hole of detailing, if you want to car to stay in mint and be easy to maintain I suggest the following.

Prep your paint. This will rid ALL contaminants before you seal off the paint.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGkNZUc8aJc

DO NOT use a brush of any kind, it will ruin your paint, the whole detailing community will agree.
After the paint is prepared, you now need to preserve it, there's 3 options.

Wax - Standard issue, does the job but is pita to apply, doesn't last as long as other options.

Sealant - It's essentially a modernized wax, outperforms wax in every regard, easier to apply, last longer and beads/protects better, think of it as a synthetic blend oil. I HIGHLY recommend a good sealant.

Ceramic coating - Absolute best protection bar none, known to last 1 year and is very durable, outperforms sealants and waxes in regards to water beading. It actually forms a hard ceramic barrier above your paint. Because of this it will nearly eliminate scratching from washing. Extremely easy to apply. It's like your synthetic oil for your car. Only drawback is price.

Just go here, they know more than any of us here, and they'll get you started on equipment needed etc. sign up asap! Great forum.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/
My car needs this badly... thx for posting. I'd been at a loss as to where to begin.
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  #11  
Old 05-29-2019, 08:41 AM
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Posts: 4,734
You mention there is some body damage. I would not use a lot of modern products in that area until the damage is repaired. It can impact elements of the painting. I have a 114 coupe in generally good condition other than it needs painted.

Whatever someone treated that finish with did not come off well enough for my satisfaction. I believe the original maroon paint was oxidized and they put something on it that I cannot identify nor totally remove. I may have to strip the paint yet. Various solvents I have tried the rags still come off with a trace of color.

Years ago there were color match waxes on the market. I almost fear whatever it is got down into the paint and is probably very high silicone in nature.
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  #12  
Old 06-03-2019, 12:40 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 122
Hopefully can get back on this project soon.

I pulled the battery and tray, and removed the stash of vintage leaves.

No rust! Just a little dirt. Cleaned up very nice.

A bit of corrosion in the bottom of the tray, but no holes rusted. I cleaned the tray up and re painted it.
__________________
'83 240D 4spd
'83 240D Slushbox
'83 300D + Mud tires
'83 300SD
'89 300SEL
'00 CNG Crown Victoria
'10 E63
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