Parade video
 

https://youtu.be/gIqPNFImNUQ


The Grand Marshal is seen about one minute into the video.

Compressor bracket
 

I welded and painted the compressor bracket, as well as the two braces. I am a little bummed that I did not notice that the plate was not square with the block before I got it half welded. I may just make another one just in case the belt alignment is too far off. Now I just need to grind the webs off of the upper pan in the car. Photos of before and after painting......Rich

New bypass pipe and turbo housing
 

It has been a month since I have had time to work on the car. I have been wanting to replace the ARV turbo with a standard one, and I finally got the time to do it yesterday. I figured while I had the turbo off, I would replace the bypass pipe. Paul (mach4) made this original one from the flanges of the old trap-ox. I got the fixture from him years ago, and started producing these pipes to sell. I kinda wish I saved one of the stainless steel units I had for this car. I sold all of them, and the pipe bender is reluctant to bend more fore me (busy with major jobs). I wanted to retain the EGT probe in the new pipe, so I cut a slug from a piece of iron pipe, and had my welder friend TIG it on for me. I drilled and taped it for the fitting. I also found a couple exhaust leaks from loose bolts and no gasket. These don't have a gasket between the manifold and the trap-ox from the factory, but I provide one in the pipe kit.
I decided to just replace the compressor housing, rather than replacing the entire turbo. I removed the pipe and turbo as an assembly, as it seemed easier. It probably would have been easier to put the new pipe and re-housinged (is that a word?) turbo in as a unit, but I decided to do it the normal way.

Air cleaner
 

An added bonus for getting rid of the ARV is that I now have plenty of clearance for the air cleaner. The element needed the plastic nose cut off and a flat piece of plastic fitted so it did not rub on the fan shroud.

Turbo Work
 

Nice looking job Rich ! .

Those Ca filters look a lot neater than our conventional one. Seems my bracket often needs repair. Is it feasible to retrofit that type of filter to our non-Ca cars?

OK, I found this discussion. Sounds like it might not work on my 85 with 82/3 engine.

Rollguy - you may be interested in post #4 : https://www.benzworld.org/threads/anyone-have-either-a-ca-85-air-filter-housing-or-a-better-fix-for-the-air-filter.2041737/post-9073553

New filter
 

I finally got a new filter, and did not have to cut the nose off. Evidently there is a filter that looks exactly the same, but larger. I did not know exactly what year/model Ford the filter came from, so I bought one. It was the wrong size, so I did some searching, and found the model and year range for the proper filter. I was in no hurry, so I just ordered one from Amazon, and got it the next day.......Rich

I kind of wish someone would make and sell the metal adapter disc that will allow those Ford air filters to fit the OM617 turbos. But, we know hard it can be to sell enough to make it worth it.

Suspension parts replacement
 

I preparation for tomorrows car show (Mercedes Motoring in Glendale), I started the front suspension rebuild. I only had time today to do the upper ball joints and upper control arm bushings. The right side ball joint was original, so I had to drill/grind the rivets out. The left side was done previously by mach4 (former owner). I replaced it anyway. Next job- Lower ball joints and bushings=FUN!

I attended the Mercedes Motoring car show today, it was awesome! I will start a thread in events and gatherings. Here is a photo of the SLD. It was raining a little, so I brought my shade canopy to keep the parts I had for sale in my trunk dry.......Rich http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/events-gatherings/402446-so-cal-m-b-show-swap-gtg-12-8-19-a.html#post3983982

Looking great! I have to point out how cool the Mercedes support wagon is in the second picture.

ambulance
 

That's a super rare ambulance that Blue towed with his right hand drive S124 - the same car from his and Rich's Europe trip a couple years back.

Was nice to see some forum guys there. The SLD is looking choice, Rich!

I don’t think it would work on most of them. Only the California OM617 cars have the turbo mounted up high. I’m guessing here as I don’t have a 617 in front of me, but I bet with the standard setup it wouldn’t fit.

Polished valve cover
 

I had another valve cover polished and decided to install it today. I adjusted the valves while I was in there. I also replaced the oil cap gasket. This valve cover was the one that came on the car, and had the firing order shaved/polished off for a smooth look. It still has the three pointed star. Before and after photos below......Rich

Looks like you are having fun with that 107 cum 123! :)

Yes- loads of fun!!!!

I have a polished cover on my 617/39 Studebaker. Yours looks nicer!

Thanks! The photos don't actually do it justice, the light was all wrong.

Dead battery today!
 

A couple weeks ago, I replaced the battery because it was dead. It was about 5 years old, so I figured it was bad, and would not take a charge. I should have checked the charging system then, but I didn't. Today I drove the car to Home Depot, and when I went to start the car, it barely cranked. I called Auto Club and got a jump start. When I got home, I put the battery on the charger. I removed the voltage regulator and found one of the brushes missing. I had a good used one in stock and replaced it. It started right up and is charging the battery now! I really like how easy it is to replace the regulator on these alternators. A stubby Phillips and five minutes got the job done!.......Rich

Voltage Regulators
 

Wow, you certainly got your money's worth out of that one ! .

After 5 years you're on borrowed time, I too have had several 'runs fine but won't re start' when the 5 + year old battery dies in mid flight .

Almost always far from home .

I'm now using dynamic voltage gauges in all my Mercedes because the darn low charge light never comes on unless the fan belt breaks, here's a nice cheap handy one :

https://www.amazon.com/Palumma-Charger-Adapter-Display-Battery/dp/B0773BYS6P?pf_rd_p=5cc0ab18-ad5f-41cb-89ad-d43149f4e286&pd_rd_wg=SYbun&pf_rd_r=4K8E5D5F7SXV9J45PTZK&ref_=pd_gw_wish&pd_rd_w=bp3kv&pd_rd_r=d494c 7c0-f2a2-4ee3-89d6-7052b187c618

BEWARE of the slightly cheaper ones that have BLUE DISPLAY ~ it's hard to see in the sun or at night .

Blower problem=repaired Push Button Unit
 

I had no blower function, so I removed the PBU to see if I could find a problem with it. I could not, so I contacted forum member Jamesdean, and he had me send him all three units (PBU, Temp Regulator, and Blower Speed Control). He found a bad trace in the PBU, and serviced the other two units. He used parts from a couple other PBU cores I sent to make up a nice one for the R107. None of the other PBU's (126,123 etc) are compatible with the 107, so he had to fix mine. He even replaced the temp wheel tape! I highly recommend Jamesdean for Climate Control, Cruise Control, and Instrument Cluster repair. The work is top notch, and very affordable.....Rich

Cool!

The original batteries in my 03 Dodge lasted 11 years. I was impressed.

Actually, Hot! I installed the three units today, and I now have heat!!! Thanks again Jamesdean for the great repair!

Remote door locks (keyless entry)
 

I bought a remote door lock kit from A***** for the SLD. It came with enough parts for four doors, but I only need enough for two. Fortunately, it takes two of the rods per door, so I have enough of them to make both lock motors work. Starting on the passenger side, I removed the vacuum pod, and used one of the holes for the lower mounting bolt for the lock motor. I had to drill one for the top bolt. I also had to remove the bolts from the lock mechanism so I could get the rod through the hole of the lever. To fish the wire, I fashioned a hook on the end of a coat hanger, and fed it through where the vacuum lock hoses go and then hooked the wires. I pulled the end of the wires through, and routed them to the driver side where the controller is. For the driver side, I had to fish five wires through. The wires are thin, so there was enough room for them. After putting the door panels back on, I hooked everything up and now have keyless entry! The controller has provision for trunk unlocking, so I will do some research and figure out how to make it work. I will probably just use one of the extra lock motors and replace the vacuum pod. I don't really need a trunk "popper", just a way to unlock the trunk without using the key.

Pulling wire. Also, I repaired the compressor mount bracket and braces, so they are ready to install. Post #152- After I got the plate welded, I noticed it was not square with the engine. I remove a couple parts, and welded new pieces in, but straight this time!

If I remember right, a custom oil pan had to be made to get the diesel to fit in the SL. True?

NO. A pan from a W116 (300SD) worked perfectly.

A/C compressor mount
 

I started the job of mounting the compressor today. I had to remove the power steering pump and oil cooler lines to gain access to work on the mounting plate. I had to grind off the ribs of the aluminum oil pan so the plate would fit close to the block. It was quite an ordeal to get the plate mounted, as there was very little room to work from above, and none from below. Long wobble extensions were used to tighten the brace screws. I finally got the plate and two braces mounted after a couple hours work. I put the compressor on the plate temporarily (barely enough room to squeeze the compressor in with PS pump and oil cooler hoses removed), and it is tight to the sub-frame with no adjustment. I tried a few different tools to get in there to grind away the seam (thickness of the seam might be enough), but no luck. I decided to just remove the entire sub-frame at a later date to cut and weld in a notch for the compressor. More on this later.....Rich

Sub-frame removal
 

I decided it was easiest to remove the sub-frame to notch it to make room to swing the compressor. It will be much easier to cut and weld with the sub-frame out of the car. An added bonus will be the ease of removal of the springs so I can change the lower control arm bushings. I started the job by cleaning out my garage (have not been able to get a car inside for years). After jacking the car and placing it on stands, I removed the wheels, calipers, sway bar link bolts, shocks, steering arms, and motor mount bolts. I rigged up my engine support by placing a piece of angle iron on each side that bridged the gap between the fender flange and core support (support legs would have been sitting in a hole). I placed the hook of the screw into the front engine lift bracket. With a floor jack under the center of the sub-frame, I loosened the four mounting bolts and lowered the frame with suspension attached.

Sub-frame removal part 2
 

Once I had the sub-frame out from under the car, one side at a time, I hooked up my spring compressor to take the tension off the spring. I then removed the lower control arm and spindle leaving only the upper control arms connected to the sub-frame. I took the tension off the spring on one side, and repeated the process for the other. I was now able to remove the bushings. I decided to order and replace the ball joints as well, and then the entire front suspension will have been rebuilt (I did the upper bushings and ball joints several months ago). I used my ball joint "C" press to remove the ball joints, and some heat from a torch to aid in getting the bushings out. While waiting for parts, I will do the cutting and welding for compressor clearance. After that, I can clean and paint the sub-frame and control arms......Rich

A Frame Bushings
 

Judging by the looks of those lower bushings, you're going to love the improved handling .

Yes, ever since I got the car it clunked when I went over a bump. I replaced all the easy parts, and left the hard parts (lowers require spring removal) for last. I imagine the only way to replace the lower bushings is to remove the sub-frame. There is no hole in the body above the upper spring seat to put the spring compressor into. Since I had to modify the sub-frame for compressor fitment, it was a no-brainer to do the bushings.

Sub-frame notch
 

I started the work on the sub-frame today. I cut out the area that needed to be notched for the compressor with a cut-off disc. I used a piece of 1/8 thick sheet steel for the notch, bent in my vice. I cut the rough shape out with my metal cutting chop saw, and got it closer with the angle grinder. I welded it on all sides, and ground the welds smooth. I also added a gusset to the bottom. Only one side was done previously. I just need to clean it a little better, and then paint it.

Gusset
 

The gusset.

Cleaning and painting
 

Yesterday I got the parts cleaned and painted. The larger center portion I took to the coin-op car wash, and used my favorite degreaser to get it clean. A can of satin black engine paint was used to make it pretty. The smaller parts I cleaned with solvent, and then the degreaser. Everything got painted, including the engine mount spacers.

A/C compressor
 

While the sub-frame is out of the car, I figured it would be easiest to install the compressor. There is so much more room, and the compressor went in without any problems. However, with the compressor all the way against the block, the pulley rubs on the anti-sway bar. If I rotate it away from the engine, it does not rub. Hopefully there is enough room in the notch I made in the sub-frame that the pulley has clearance before the compressor hits it. I will probably find out today, as I have the parts and hope to get everything put back together before dark.......Rich

Sub-frame install
 

Yesterday I continued the work on the sub-frame. Cleaning parts, painting them, and installing new parts. I used my "C" press to press in the ball joints, and a little silicone spray made the lower bushings just slide right in (with a little help from a hammer of course). Using two floor jacks, I was able to get the completed sub-frame up into place.

I ran into a problem. I picked up the left side spindle/rotor assembly to clean and paint it, and when I was cleaning it, I noticed an R stamped into the forging. I thought that maybe when I took the joints off the spindle, I had the sub-frame turned around. I cleaned and painted both sides, and proceeded to install the one marked R on the right side, and the L on the left side. Makes sense, right? After jacking up the sub-frame and bolting it up tight, I tried to put the steering arms on the spindle. I noticed that the brake caliper was in the way. It was then that I realized that I put the spindles on the wrong side! Evidently, these are made for other chassis (W115?) that have "front steer", and the R107 is "rear steer". I thought about what a hassle it would be to remove the sub-frame, take out one spring at a time, and switch the spindles. After thinking for a moment, I figured I could set the lower ball joints on stands, and the weight of the car would keep the springs compressed so I could remove both spindles safely to switch them. That plan worked perfectly! I got it mostly put back together, and will probably get back to it today. Another problem is that the anti-sway bar is hitting the A/C compressor pulley (second photo post 186 above. With engine lower, sitting on it's mounts). I will have to fabricate some brackets to lower the mounts. Stay tuned.............Rich

Nice work! Are you using a sand (media) blaster?

Although a blast cabinet would be a good thing to have, I did not use one. I have kept everything pretty clean, so it only took some degreaser and a pressure washer to clean the large parts before painting. For the spindles and backing plates, I just used a rag and lacquer thinner to clean them.

Anti-sway bar
 

After thinking about it for a while, I came up with a plan to lower the anti-sway bar mounts. I found some flat bar stock the same width as the mounts, and cut four pieces at 5". This will lower the bar a little over an inch. The plan is to sandwich the existing mounting surface with two pieces each side. I drilled three holes in each piece, the top one for the former top bushing mount, and the two lower holes for the new mount location. I had to drill the center hole for the new upper mount bolt. The passenger side mount has the tow hook, and the bottom of the mount is closed off with metal. I had to cut it out to gain access to the fasteners.

Part 2
 

I got the anti-sway bar mounted with no problem. Also, there is plenty of room for the compressor now, both at the sub-frame and the compressor pulley.

A/C work
 

I finally got all the A/C components hooked up, and ready for a vac and charge. The hardest part was the suction hose connection at the expansion valve. It is way up in the dash above the pedal assembly, and not easy to get to. I had a friend make an adapter from the flare fitting to O ring. I made the other three hoses, two of them having inline R12 charge ports. I went to my local radiator shop to pressure test the system= NO LEAKS! Since I have all the equipment to charge R12 (gauge set, vac pump, R12), I figured I could do the job myself. I started the engine and turned the A/C on. The compressor clutch did not engage. I checked everything I knew to check, and just decided to hotwire the clutch in order to get it charged up. I figured I could sort out the no power problem later. I put in enough R12 to make the bubbles go away in the sight glass, and the vents put out cold air. After trying to figure it out for about an hour, I decided to call it quits for today, and get on my computer and do some research. Next time I have to work on it, I will be looking into the compressor relay and temperature control unit. I am not sure where the compressor relay is, but the temp control was checked/repaired by jamesdean, along with the PBU and fan speed control. I doubt any one of those is the problem. Anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram and relocation for the '85 308SL? I looked a little, but did not find anything very helpful. Thanks, Rich

Rich, if you go to startekinfo, mbusa have manuals for all the 107s on-line. The electrical diagrams should be there. Same place where they have w123 FSM.

I believe the front suspension on the 107 is pretty much all 115 chassis.

Excellent work Rich! I would not be brave enough to cut open important things like the crossmember and weld in new parts....of course I might feel differently if I could weld like you can.;)

Thanks. I went there, and it does have the diagram I need, but it is too washed out to see anything of value. I could try printing it out, but that will only make it a little easier to comprehend, even with a magnifying glass.

Yes, many of the suspension part numbers start with 115. It is no problem to notch the sub-frame like this, as the part that would normally stick out, is sticking in (if that makes sense). There is no compromise in strength doing it this way.

Try these. Poster has an 84 380SL, so, as he said, the later date diagrams are probably close. Didn't check if they are better than those on Startekinfo.

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/wiring-diagrams.2793386/

Thanks, those are much better!

COLD A/C!!!!!
 

I can't believe what a numbskull I am! I had the pair of wires for the condenser fan switch hooked up to the pressure switch. I put the othe pair of wires in the pressure switch (with the engine running, and A/C on), and the compressor and fans came on!!! I am thankful that I did not have to trace any wires or troubleshoot relays and modules etc. I now have 50F air coming out of the vents! It was about 86F outside. I feels plenty cool inside the cabin with the soft top up. It may even be a little cooler inside with the hard top. This project has taken over a year to complete, and I am happy it is finished!!