Great job on he interior.

Use this

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch-1-in-x-1-66-yds-Permanent-Double-Sided-Extreme-Mounting-Tape-414DC-SF/203405976

The prior owner of my E300 deleted the lettering on the trunk lid. I sourced some replacement lettering (for the E300 and the TURBODIESEL) from another forum member, and KarTek provided me a picture of his trunk with a ruler on it so I could lay it all back out. Working from the photos I built a template out of card stock with cut outs for all the letters. Stuck and trimmed tape to the back of all the letters, taped the template to the car, and repeated in about 4 hours what it takes the factory 6 seconds to do...

In fact if you don’t mind the modern look you could use the discrete letters from a more modern MB to logo your trunk and spell anything you want...

It seems I beat you to it. I ordered this from Amizon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JR4D70K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I had planned on adding a photo of the tape applied to the emblem this morning, but I left my phone in the SLD yesterday. It is 10 miles away at a friends house on the lift. I got the trans all put back in yesterday and went for a test drive. Almost immediately it developed a leak. After putting it back on the lift, I found the leak coming from the Oring on the new modulator I installed. It was very hard to push in, and the Oring must have gotten cocked just enough to not seal. I will add a photo when I get there a little later. Fortunately, I had ordered two other Orings to keep in stock. I just did not have them with me.

My brother had the TDI stolen from his Jetta, so he got those generic chrome letters and did exactly what you suggested. He added the JETTA as well, so the font would match the TDI.

I got my phone this morning and took a photo of the adhesive tape on the back of the emblem.

Modulator Oring issues and steering box reseal
 

I brought the two extra Orings I had and installed one of them. It was very difficult to get the modulator to slide on, so I tried it by inserting the Oring down in the bore, and then pushing in the modulator. It seemed to work. I started the engine, and almost immediately I noticed a drip. After taking the modulator out again, I noticed the Oring cocked, and torn like the first one. I only had one more Oring, so I decided to just put it on the old modulator (old style Oring location). I installed it, and it leaked too! Upon removing it, I noticed that I broke the pin. I was able to poke a razor blade in the hole and stab the broken pin just enough to pull it out. The last thing I tried was silicone on the Oring and the new modulator. I don't know if it leaks yet, as I decided to pull the steering box for a reseal. I got the box out, and after sealing the ports with duct tape and zip ties, I doused it with my favorite degreaser and pressure washed it. It is nice and clean, ready for disassembly and reseal

One cylinder compression on the 87 300D is low, what to do?
 

The car runs very well, has a lot of power but it develops a miss at idle, not all the time but on occasions at stop light. I will shake for a few seconds. It always starts at first spin. It is flawless on the freeway, no smoke and smooth. I check the compression yesterday and this is what I found.

Cyl 1 - 35x
Cyl 2 - 35x
Cyl 3 - 150
Cyl 4 - 36x
Cyl 5 - 34x
Cyl 6 - 35x

Cylinder 3 is low and don't know why. What would you recommend to do? Keep driving and put up with the occasional miss? What is the downside to drive it as is? Or do an engine overhaul? The car is in very good shape, CA car. We put in about 35K per year on the car without issues in the last few years.

btw: When I did the compression test, the pressure reading does not leak down after it reached 150. Does it mean the valves are tight/good?

I'd just drive it until it bothered me sufficiently to yank the cylinder head and see what's going on.....

I have a low compression cylinder that I', pretty sure is caused my a cylinder defect (I smell oily exhaust and the waste gate vent spews oil on the side of the engine) but it runs pretty well so for now I'll live with it .

Bob, I think you posted this in the wrong thread..........Rich

Modulator sealing woes
 

After 5 attempts to get the modulator to seal, I finally got it. It actually took a old style used one from a transmission core I had. I just could not get the modulator (new factory part) to seal. It seems that either the Oring gets ruined upon installation, or the modulator itself is bad from the factory. I went to NAPA this morning and got the only Oring they had in the exact size. I installed it on the used modulator, and it does not leak= HORRAY! I took a photo of the bore using a mirror. It seems that the Oring is not sealing on the bottom of the bore where the notch is (top of bore in mirror, actually bottom of bore). I don't know if anyone else has had a problem with the new style modulators, but I sure have. I may try to find an NOS unit to replace it eventually.

One nice thing about the R107 trans tunnel, is there is MUCH more room than a W123. The modulator can be R&R'd without having to drop the rear of the trans......Rich

O-Ring Installation
 

? Did you lube it at all Rich ? .

I prefer gaskets dry but have found that I often nick O-Rings unless I wet them with whatever they're supposed to seal in .

The working space there is nice ! .

It looks like someone managed to make a nice custom trunk emblem for this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqjhWnfVfss&feature=youtu.be

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1564200866

Yes, I tried silicone lube a couple times, and also ATF.

SLD emblem
 

I got the 300SLD emblem installed today. It actually looks pretty good. I also removed the TURBODIESEL emblem to clean and wax under it. I will paint the part black like the other one while I have it off.

It looks just like it was made that way!

If you look up close, you can see it is Hollywood, but hopefully it is good enough to keep most everyone guessing.

Emblem, parts, condenser
 

I had some time today to work on the car. I masked the TURBODIESEL emblem and painted the black stripe. With both emblems on, the back of the car looks complete now. I received the condenser I ordered, and started mounting it. I used some aluminum angle and flat bar. After installing the condenser, I realized I could not get the Gen II W126 fan through the hole in front. I have to put the condenser up through the bottom, but I think there will be enough room to mount the fan first, and then slide the condenser in between the fan and radiator. I also got a box of parts from Pelican. The boots on all the tie rod ends and drag link are cracked and rotted, so I decided to order new ones. I will replace the idler bushings, and steering damper as well.