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#1
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HELP! Stripped Vavle cover bolts!
I have stripped the valve cover bolts on my '85 300D, the front 2 to be precise, and I cant find them anywhere.
I'm not sure if I'm searching for the wrong keywords or if they're just impossible to find. Any ideas? Please help, I'm without a ride until I find them. |
#2
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Which ones? On top of the valve cover or the nuts and studs that hold the cover in place?
If it is the ones on top, the cover threads are probably stripped, not the bolt. Those bolts are standard hardware at a hardware store as are the nuts holding the cover down. Try to be more precise as to the problem or post a picture if you can. Good luck!!!
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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
#3
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Are the threads in such bad shape that they can not be repaired? Maybe going one size down with the corresponding nut would be an option.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#4
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Quote:
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#5
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They're beyond gone. I had to pull the cover off, vice grip the bolt and put pressure under the nut with a screwdriver while turning the nut to get it off.
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#6
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I found this thread, but it's not much help other than "get them from the dealer".
HELP- Broken valve cover bolt |
#7
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Does that mean that the studs unscrewed from the head?
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#8
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Yep, the front 2 anyway.
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#9
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The threads on the head side are fine, so just the studs and nuts are what I need. I've been unable to find them anywhere, looks like I'll have to get a rental car and call a dealership tomorrow.
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#10
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A couple of approaches if you can't get the proper stud:
If you can get the studs out without destroying the threads in the head, they can be replaced by a bolt instead of a stud OR use a cut-off bolt as a stud. The latter will require use of a thread-locking compound so the bolt does not unscrew when removing the nuts in the future. A proper stud has a coarser thread at one end so it does not unscrew. Stripping those fasteners was probably a result of overtightening the nuts in an attempt to eliminate a valve cover oil leak. The specified torque for those nuts is very low, 10lb/ft or 14Nm. If you cranked down on them hard enough to strip you may have damaged your valve cover. It is an aluminum casting and can be warped by overtightening. |
#11
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Honestly, I'd be comfortable trying a clicker strap around the engine. If there's not a spot between two intake runners that you can run the nylon strap, use a coathanger for the portion that comes close to the exhaust manifold.
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CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there? |
#12
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Quote:
I'm hesitant to replace the studs with bolts because finding the exact size & thread at a hardware store could be difficult - impossible. One of the nuts was a little stripped when I removed the valve cover the first time (adjusting the valves and replacing the valve cover - see pic), buying new nuts is what caused the whole issue. I bought a few sizes M7 M8 1.0 1.25... I don't remember which one I used but they went on somewhat smooth and I didn't think there was a problem until I tried to take them off again to adjust the gasket. 1st one came off smooth as butter, 2nd was a little rough and the last two pulled the stud out. I think I'm just going to order from the dealership unless I finally stumble upon them online. |
#13
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Quote:
Plan B is double sided tape. Plan C is Gorilla Glue. |
#14
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Don't do plan B or C.
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Milan Brown 1979 240D, rebuilt OM617.952 turbo diesel, rebuilt 722.315 transmission (my only daily driver) Instagram: @maximed93 |
#15
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HAHA! but Plan D from Moon is OK?!?
I've tried: Pelican ebay amazon all of the auto parts chain stores the Mercedes dealer sites Kent Autohauz Car-parts discount car parts Rock Auto ********* eeuroparts ECS and few more. |
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