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replacing sheetmetal on W115
Txbill and others,
I now have my grandfather's 1975 240D in Arizona. It has a fair amount of sentimental value, but it is a rust-bucket in need of a new tub and all four corners. I have found a source for the panels that is not too expensive.I was wondering what is involved in the installation. If I can't arrange with friends to do the welding, what kind of labour am I looking at? Also, what is out there for passivating and coating the suspension parts that are still sound? Thanks for the insight, Andrew Seidel.
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86 560SEC 85 500SEC Lorinser 83 300D Turbo 75 240D |
#2
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Get a complete floor pan if you can -- it will be completely shot if the windows leaked, and they all do if the gaskets weren't replaced.
Much easier to weld the the whole pan on each side (the metal will be good above the bottom of the pan). Front firewall will be perforated in places. So will the box frame on front corners, as will the door pillar to box joint. Check the area around the brake booster -- always get spilled brake fluid there that eats the paint off and the seam between the inner fender and floorpan rusts out. You will need to remove the windshield wiper motor and all the stuff under the dash to weld here, be careful about setting it on fire, there is flamable sound deadening up there. We had two or three good blazes going, had to get a new fire extinguisher. Front fenders I'd just replace, not that hard to get good ones ($98 each), and you need to take a torch to melt the adhesive between the inner fender and outer fender (where the screws go next to the hood) if you take replacements off yourself -- if you pull too hard you will twist the fender and make it useless -- we had to get new ones for this reason. The rear suspension support will be rusted out, you will need to fabricate some W channel for that. Very important, as this hold the rear end on. The fender well will be rusted from the rear seat shelf down on both panels, you will need to fix the inner one first. Trunk floor and rear fenders are shot, plan on replacing whole floor, it's easier to do in one piece rather than bits. Frame will be fine. Fender tips are a pain in the butt -- I'd get that fancy offset tool and spot weld them in rather than try to get a decent stitch weld on the crease, it's too hard to get flat otherwise. You will need the inner side, too, here. Check the doors for rust around the door gasket and under the window trim, it can creep out pretty badly. Replacement doors are easy, too. I've decided to pass on restoring my 220D after the time and work it has taken to get my brother's 75 300D back together! His was in better shape when we started. Besides, I have the 280 SE to play with now! Good luck! If you need any more info contact me! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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psfred,
Can I move into your shop? A cot in the corner won't take much room. I'd even feed myself. And what I'd learn would be priceless.
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daBenz - 1970 220D |
#4
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Dabenz:
If you don't mine the dust and lack of AC, you're welcome to move in! Might want to ask the mice if they mind, though! Just spend a couple years pounding metal doing a 75 300D and you will learn more than you wanted. My brother started doing body work as a teenager for the old guy down the road. His son and grandson both have very very good body shops today, best in town. The old man never used Bondo -- only lead fill. Painted with a cigarette in one hand and the spray gun in the other, too. My brother is also a very good welder -- I will probably learn someday, when I get too old to work and need something to keep me off the streets! Bodywork is very different than mechanical work -- lots of art and experience required. Also, lots and lots of sanding. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#5
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psfred,
It was the mechanical stuff I was thinking of (will leave the bodywork to the true artists; they are hard to find). I can wrench a diesel, but am not too familiar with the MB rear suspension stuff, which is will be the next project. On a truck you unbolt the top hangers, lift the frame, and replace/repair to your hearts content. daBenz is starting to look like a lot of work for an inch or so of sag. Maybe I should start a new thread (went through jimsmith and your threads but didn't find what I was looking for) so you can continue helping 5banger on the bodywork. Oh, and do your mice want company? Seems like the cats and foxes are lazy this year around here this year.
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daBenz - 1970 220D |
#6
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DaBenz:
Have you replaced the shocks on the rear? If so, you should then replace the rear suspension bushings and diff mount before attempting the springs. Rear mounts are ease -- take the weight off the rear end with a floor jack, take out the two bolts at the front of the mount locator and the big one in the middle of the mount (at the front of the subframe). Pull mount out of subframe (usually just fall out, shrunken and hard). Coat new mount with dishwashing liquid or silicone spray and stuff up into the subframe (you may need to push it in with a jack or lever) and then re-install bolt. You can also use a spacer and washer to pull the mount in with the bolt. If the new mounts and shocks don't fix the sag, you are looking a springs -- you need an internal spring compressor to pull some of the travel out -- put the car on jack stands and jack the control arm up as far as you can, then remove shock and install spring compressor. Lower control arm until spring is free and remove. Let the tension off the spring (carefully, and keep your head and neck protected in case it "pops" out!), install on new spring in the same place and pull it down as far as you can, then install in reverse of removal. The only real difficulty is that these are long springs, much longer than the space they take up installed. They are deadly if they fly out and hit you! All very much easier if you have a real service bay and lift....... I have not removed my rear springs, but others on the forum have. They can give better advice. And don't forget to have the rear alignment checked -- if the toe-in is off, the height and camber/caster will be off, too. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#7
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Gentlemen,
Thank you for the replies. I am also wondering what it might cost to have the welding done? A coworker has a large garage and lift and my manager is a welding expert, but the beer will only buy a few weeks before my car begins to smell like guests. Cheers, Andrew Seidel.
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86 560SEC 85 500SEC Lorinser 83 300D Turbo 75 240D |
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