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  #1  
Old 06-24-2019, 08:05 PM
koooop's Avatar
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Location: So. Cal.
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1981 240D Door striker adjustment

How does one adjust these things?

When I first bought this car the door strikers were in bad shape, not knowing any better I bought the cheapo ones. Three of the four work perfect, but the drivers door not so much. I hate slamming the drivers door all the time.

I'm going to buy a good one from MBZ classic center if I can't adjust this one.
Attached Thumbnails
1981 240D Door striker adjustment-img_2073.jpg  
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 175,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior.
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  #2  
Old 06-25-2019, 12:00 AM
Shern's Avatar
Earnest Spring-whisperer
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Los Angeles
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I would love to know this.
Both front doors are a b@stard to close... both have new door strikers.
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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.
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  #3  
Old 06-25-2019, 03:30 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
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1st : buy the proper new striker from The Classic Center or find one in a junkyard, it'll prolly fail in a year or two but if' you're broke do what you have to do .

I adjust these by lightly setting the screws then sitting on a milk crate and peering in the gap as I *almost* close the door and then adjust so the pointed spear bit enters the round hole bit dead center ~ then you tighten up two screws diagonally and see if the door closes O.K. .

If so, tighten the other screws really well and you're good to go .

Some times it takes me three or five tries before I get it Just So so don't panic or have a spazz, just keep at it .

The proper closing doors is a delight and well worth the effort .
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-Nate
1982 240D creampuff 370,000 miles
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 440,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Moto R60/6 Barn Find, 8,000miles
1959 VW #113 Deuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk, Rust, Arthritis, Crushed Spine,Broken Neck&Back
Memories, Peace Of Mind
facts & reality don't change because you can't handle them
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  #4  
Old 06-25-2019, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
1st : buy the proper new striker from The Classic Center or find one in a junkyard, it'll prolly fail in a year or two but if' you're broke do what you have to do .

I adjust these by lightly setting the screws then sitting on a milk crate and peering in the gap as I *almost* close the door and then adjust so the pointed spear bit enters the round hole bit dead center ~ then you tighten up two screws diagonally and see if the door closes O.K. .

If so, tighten the other screws really well and you're good to go .

Some times it takes me three or five tries before I get it Just So so don't panic or have a spazz, just keep at it .

The proper closing doors is a delight and well worth the effort .
Thatís what Iíve been doing with this one, I figured it was because it was a Cheap POS.

I will buy the good one, thanks for the info.
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 175,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior.
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  #5  
Old 06-25-2019, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koooop View Post
Thatís what Iíve been doing with this one, I figured it was because it was a Cheap POS.

I will buy the good one, thanks for the info.
If that makes a difference, please let us know.
As far as I can tell, the action of the striker comes down to a small plastic nub.
The rest is a funnel... in this case, Iím skeptical oem would make any appreciable difference aside from price and longevity.
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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.
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  #6  
Old 06-25-2019, 02:15 PM
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The only adjustment I can see is there is different thicknesses of shims.

When I bought cheap ones I could not use the shims that the old ones had.

The little rubber nose in the square seems to be the most important area as it pushes the hook in and that pushes the other end of the hook up into the recess on the bottom of the striker.

I tried using epoxy putty on one of the door strikers. It worked but later broke off and I replaced it again with epoxy putty and it is holding.

I had trouble with the epoxy on the bottom by the recess. If you put too much it wont work.

On the cheapie door strikers I had one of the rubber noses break off within 2 months
Attached Thumbnails
1981 240D Door striker adjustment-door-striker-b.jpg   1981 240D Door striker adjustment-door-striker-epoxy.jpg  
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  #7  
Old 06-25-2019, 02:16 PM
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Location: Central California
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Try using the original striker frame with the aftermarket stiker rubber guts.
Shown here...
NEW W123 Door Strikers/Latches Out of Spec !


The aftermarket frames are incorrectly shaped.
Shown in these pics.
NEW W123 Door Strikers/Latches Out of Spec !



.
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- GreaseCar Veg System


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  #8  
Old 06-25-2019, 02:29 PM
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Diesel Dandy
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
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Exclamation

The bitterness of low quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is gone .
__________________
-Nate
1982 240D creampuff 370,000 miles
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 440,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Moto R60/6 Barn Find, 8,000miles
1959 VW #113 Deuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk, Rust, Arthritis, Crushed Spine,Broken Neck&Back
Memories, Peace Of Mind
facts & reality don't change because you can't handle them
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  #9  
Old 06-25-2019, 04:23 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
The bitterness of low quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is gone .
Well at least in my case, over 4 years and still good on the rebuilt strikers. I feel good with the sub- $8 rubber parts.


.
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- GreaseCar Veg System


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  #10  
Old 06-25-2019, 05:00 PM
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Grease the latch mechanism.
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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
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  #11  
Old 06-25-2019, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
The bitterness of low quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is gone .
Yeah, but three outta four ainít bad!
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 175,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior.
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  #12  
Old 06-25-2019, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Blue View Post
Grease the latch mechanism.
Did that
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 175,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior.
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  #13  
Old 06-25-2019, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shern View Post
If that makes a difference, please let us know.
As far as I can tell, the action of the striker comes down to a small plastic nub.
The rest is a funnel... in this case, Iím skeptical oem would make any appreciable difference aside from price and longevity.
Nate knows what heís talking about.
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 175,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior.
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  #14  
Old 06-25-2019, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Try using the original striker frame with the aftermarket stiker rubber guts.
Shown here...
NEW W123 Door Strikers/Latches Out of Spec !


The aftermarket frames are incorrectly shaped.
Shown in these pics.
NEW W123 Door Strikers/Latches Out of Spec !



.
I usually save original bits, if I still have the original striker Iím going to try this.

Now that Iím thinking about it, both of the right hand doors cheapo striker is working great. Both of the left side are junk, but for some reason the left rear door original striker still works fine. And the bolts wonít come out on that one, so I can switch it to the front door.
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 175,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior.
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  #15  
Old 06-25-2019, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koooop View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Blue
Grease the latch mechanism
Did that
I have to pull my latch mechanisms completely out and clean all the old grease out of them, then regrease them. Driver and passenger side are okay-ish, back doors never saw much use so they're kind of sticky.

Some PO has applied a liberal amount of white lithium grease to all the latches as well. Doesn't help much with door operation, lol.
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