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Old 07-01-2019, 09:50 AM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Location: New Jersey
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617 vacuum pump rebuild time?

I know I have some leak down of vacuum due to the reservoir only holding enough to run the locks for 12-24 hours; a typical final
Downshift clunk when coming to a stop (at shifts beautifully the rest of the time though), and only semi-operable middle AC vents.

Pulled all cabin consumers off and ran a test. For some reason I thought that 25” was the magic number. Going from idle to 2000 rpm adds maybe 1” of Hg.



I know that the 5-way splitter under hood is at least sufficiently hard that some of the lines slide in and out easily. So I have a new one on order. But this is without any of those consumers attached, at sea level, etc.

Just would appreciate thoughts on if I need to chase this down before chasing other things. I guess my first step should be to block off the other port from the manifold, if not the booster as well... but don’t want to take unnecessary steps...

Thanks!
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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Old 07-01-2019, 10:07 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Alhambra California
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A good vacuum pump normally creates around 18-20 inches of vacuum and it appears from your vacuum gauge that your pump is doing it’s job. I normally consider replacement of a vacuum pump based on miles on the pump. As far as I know rebuild kits for vacuum pumps are no longer available. As a maintenance item I replace the pump at around 200K miles. I have seen the catastrophic failure to an engine when the vacuum pump explodes internally.
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Old 07-01-2019, 01:12 PM
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Location: Long Beach,CA
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You have sufficient vacuum to get everything to work properly after you take care of the leaks.

You might remover the Check Valve on the Vacuum Pump and take a look at it and hose it out with WD-40 (don't use anything like brake cleaner that softens plastic as there is plastic parts inside of the check valve). I was getting like 17 of vacuum and it turned out the Check Valve was full of gunk. Cleaning it out with WD-40 cured it and that was like 8 years or more ago.


Ebay shows that there are still expensive kits available but you need 2 kits and a new Check Valve to equal a rebuilt or new Vacuum Pump. It is cheaper to get the whole pump and you also get a warranty.

Other issues.
W123 - Vacuum Pump
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Last edited by Diesel911; 07-01-2019 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 07-01-2019, 01:13 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
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Location: Long Beach,CA
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You have sufficient vacuum to get everything to work properly after you take care of the leaks.

You might remover the Check Valve on the Vacuum Pump and take a look at it and hose it out with WD-40 (don't use anything like brake cleaner that softens plastic as there is plastic parts inside of the check valve). I was getting like 17 inches Hg of vacuum and it turned out the Check Valve was full of gunk. Cleaning it out with WD-40 cured it and that was like 8 years or more ago.


Ebay shows that there are still expensive kits available but you need 2 kits and a new Check Valve to equal a rebuilt or new Vacuum Pump. It is cheaper to get the whole pump and you also get a warranty.

Other issues.
W123 - Vacuum Pump
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Last edited by Diesel911; 07-01-2019 at 01:30 PM.
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