It looks like a shower curtain rod would to for $70 or so less.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Maybe so, but would you have known unless I investigated?

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

You don't need a dial indicator to properly adjust wheel bearings .

? How much preload does this spreader bar apply ? .

I'd think a spring loaded shower curtain rod is too weak .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Please define "properly."

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

To factory specification .

It's really not rocket science .

If you can't do it that's fine but do not try to insist others cannot do what you cannot .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

My experience. If you get them too tight you will know that because it overheats.
End of my Experience because I dug out my Dial Indicator from the last place I left it and used it with no further problems ever.

You can get it too lose and you won't know that unless it is exceptionally lose and it will most likely run OK like that and several years down the road you may have a bearing issue.

It is also not rocket science that you won't know if you have the factory specification without the dial indicator.

If you ever re-new the rear well bearings you are defiantly going to need the dial indicator and if you ever do the 2 mm method you will need the dial indicator.

I even went out and bought a Metric Dial Indicator and a new magnetic base even though I had an Inch one. I have not priced them lately but at Harbor Fright my guess is $20-25 with the coupon.

Seems odd to spend money on an alignment but not be sure your bearing end play is correct by spending another say $25 for a tool that you can use for other stuff.

I also later found out that my Chevy Astro van has one piece front Wheel Hubs and disc. When the Disc is too thin you have to change the whole thing and guess what. It also calls for a dial indicator to set the end play.

But, as you said everyone gets to do it their own way.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have dial indicators, once you learn how to properly adjust wheel bearings you don't need one .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

What exactly Mercedes was thinking the information should be somewhere. At this point I am not even sure if the outward pressure is critical.

It makes sense to me because it takes up any play and so allows for more accurate toe in adjustment .

Ideally you want as close to zero toe as the vehicle will drive well with....

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

The dial indicator is mentioned in the books because its the only way that both a green and old tech can adjust the bearing clearance dead on accurate in the first go.

however after the 5th or 6th time you can get them pretty close to accurate with feel.

__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

What’s exactly too tight or too loose is perhaps open to interpretation.

Don’t critique the technique, I was trying to video one handed, but it’s really easy to use the dial indicator.

https://youtu.be/QNFXd3q6-3U

What was interesting to me was when close to “dialing in”, how little of a turn, 1/4-1/3 of a turn, was a major variation from way too loose to way too tight. “Just right” is only a tiny area to set.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

I think it is critical - the entire suspension is at ready to drive angle when being dialed in if the bar is installed. There is a shop near my home who have this really old man doing alignments on old american land yachts or muscle cars - the youngsters cannot do them (shims etc).

He installs a spreader bar on them - which looks like itself is about 100 years old

__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)