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#1
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Linkage failure
Hello all. This morning, while checking fluids in the 1980 300SD, I noticed the throttle linkage laying on the side. It had come free off the pivot point. Now I find myself in search of the plastic connecting thingy.
I've tried searching the usual parts suppliers but no luck. Anyone know of a source for either new or used? Currently, I ran out to the local auto parts store and purchased a linkage kit. I don't really care for the thin metal and am sure it will cause pivot point wear. Thanks for any help!
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John V 1979 300D 1980 300SD |
#2
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Your best bet is used. Posted this morning, Row 52 reported that a 1982 300SD is at the PicknPull Auto wrecking yard in Newark, CA. They have people that will remove parts for you and ship to you for a fee.
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#3
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I'm trying to understand what this part is. Does this part screw onto a linkage rod, and then connect to a ball joint?
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#4
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I believe this part is ONLY found on 1978-1980 W116 300SD's. It rests on a pin on the linkage bracket at the top of the valve cover at the control pressure rod that goes down to the transmission. I think this part has been no longer available for years.
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Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/ DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES! 1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C 1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles |
#5
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Exactly!
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John V 1979 300D 1980 300SD |
#6
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I bet a great candidate for 3D printing.
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John V 1979 300D 1980 300SD |
#7
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Get a piece of aluminum bar stock, make your own. Just need a vice, saw, drill, and a tap.
Do you still have the clip ring that holds it down?
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#8
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Quote:
Clip was there but no longer.
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John V 1979 300D 1980 300SD |
#9
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You might be able to find a rod end bearing that would work. If not a direct fit, a little adaptation might be required.
https://www.grainger.com/category/power-transmission/bearings/spherical-bearings-and-spherical-rod-ends?attrs=Thread+Size%7CM5+x+0.8%7CM6+x+1.0~~Type%7CFemale+Plain&filters=attrs Quote:
It's a little unclear as to what, exactly, failed.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#10
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Good ideas. I tried looking up the part number, but I don't have access to the electronic parts catalog, and the Russian site is incomplete--and while it shows the part in the picture, it's shadowed out and no part number is provided.
Judging by the crack in the part pictured in the first post, the threads of the rod probably pulled out of it.
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Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/ DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES! 1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C 1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles |
#11
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The aluminum stock would be a very temporary solution. The aluminum would gall very quickly and seize. You could oversize the hole and insert a brass/nylon sleeve I suppose.
Tangofox is on the right track with the rod end bearing. Got any motorcycle shops around you? The Mikuni carburetors used those ends on many applications. You could also drill out the existing peened end and install a standard ball joint end.
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#12
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Quote:
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John V 1979 300D 1980 300SD |
#13
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Quote:
Send me a PM.
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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014 79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022 |
#14
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Quote:
As for the crack, a small hose clamp would be a good temp fix. Our guy in another post is on the right track for using a rod end, however I absolutely hate Grainger and won't use them even when ordering where I work. Grainger won't sell to people and their pricing is way higher than it should be. McMaster-Carr on the other hand is much larger than Grainger and will sell to people at good pricing. |
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