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#1
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68$ for 16 door striker bolts...
Replacing my door striker inserts. I'm planning on using a hand impact driver to break them loose. Upon testing them with Husky Allen keys, there still is a bit of play when inserted to the bolt head. Im worried if they strip with the impact, im out 68$ for replacement bolts.
Does anyone know the size / dimension's of these bolts to source them myself? EDIT: Completed Pictures and process @ post#41
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Tulare County, CA WTB list: (1983 300d) -Exterior rocker panels below doors -Gauge Custer plastic window/indicator icons (1983 300D Turbo) Last edited by Wusha; 07-20-2019 at 08:54 PM. |
#2
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Take them to lowes in the fastener section and start screwing around.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#3
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Quote:
https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Screw-Size-Gauge-Metric/dp/B00GINU44U
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#4
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Quote:
Grind the end of the allen bit flat for a bit more grip. Many times bits are chamfered and this reduces engagement area. If the allen bolt does start to round out, reform the head with a hammer. If a bolt won't loosen, move onto another one as sometimes taking pressure off one area changes pressure in another. Also, sometimes attempting to rotate an entire assembly helps too. |
#5
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Little tip I've learned with allen bolts on these cars.......some #000 steel wool is your friend. Tear off a tiny pad and stretch it out, lay it over the recess in the allen screw, force the bit in. It won't strip, it won't slip, and it'll hold the screw on the allen key when you reinstall it.
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#6
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Aerokroil is your friend too
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#7
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Quote:
I have 0000, would that be too risky?
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Tulare County, CA WTB list: (1983 300d) -Exterior rocker panels below doors -Gauge Custer plastic window/indicator icons (1983 300D Turbo) |
#8
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I've used 0000 myself, I prefer the 000 due to the larger wire size, seems to provide better grip and a firmer hold.
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#9
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Another tip: With your hex socket in the screw, hit it hard with your hammer before loosening it. Even when using an impact driver, this extra step helps break the bond between the fastener and the part. You could even just hit the bolt head with the hammer, but you risk damaging something on the rebound, or missing the bolt altogether.
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#10
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I did not reed all of the posts. Did anyone mention a Junk Yard to get some other bolts?
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#11
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Hot damn... Now we are making threads about how to turn a bolt....
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#12
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Hey, someone's got to do it...............
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#13
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Quote:
I used a very small ball peen hammer and gave each one a firm (not to firm) whack, they came right off with an allen wrench, this worked on my car and the junkyard W126. I stripped the head out of one or two before I broke out the hammer. I have a sack full of them that I foolishly purchased with the crappy Chinese door strikers I purchased before I discovered the "whack".
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 180,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior. |
#14
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Quote:
I just hit the bolt.
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 180,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior. |
#15
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For allen head bolts, put the wrench in the hole and use a center punch(A real one, with a hammer, not one of the spring ones) on each of the flats of the bolt to tighten the bolt against the allen wrench. Then have a helper use the same center punch to drive the bolt in a loosening direction while you're applying torque to the allen wrench. Your hand impact driver might do the same thing.
You can also use a Torx bit just slightly larger, and hammer it into the allen bolt. Obviously this creates a sacrificial situation for both the bolt and the Torx bit. I'd rather give some tips on how to turn a bolt............than give tips on how to turn the same bolt after the head's been stripped.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
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