Outside tinkering today still chasing why my Benz won't shutdown. Since I have tested and ruled out everything except ignition switch valve and vacuum pump I started with the pump. Hooked up my hand pump to use the gauge because it's the only one I have, sure enough vacuum bouncing between 5-10PSI. So I start to look at the pump and realize the hard line bracket to Fuel filter mount is broken. Upon removal the hard pipe has rubbed a hole in the side. Any ideas where I can find one of these? I pretty confident I could repair, however I would prefer to just replace unless cost is unbearable.

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1983 300D 255K
2014 ML-350 Bluetec

If that is the hard plastic line then any decent epoxy will repair it. I use the DevCon 2 ton stuff.

Clean the plastic, scuff it up a bit using sand paper for grip, a bit of fine mesh (cheese cloth, old nylon, etc.) for support, apply the epoxy, wait a couple of hours for the cure and you're set.

You can also attach a piece of rubber tubing at the rub point to prevent further occurrences.

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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

If it is metal, same as Mike said except use an epoxy for metal.

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1979 300D 220 K miles
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********************
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1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Shipping zipcode?

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1983 300D 255K
2014 ML-350 Bluetec

Great job trouble-shooting!

Since he gave up the zip code he likely wants another tube. However, Epoxy to fix it; yes but use epoxy putty; one for metal not the one for wood.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thank you everyone for the quick responses! The knowledge this forum has is great! I have parked this car until I can get ball joints replaced(which I already have, just waiting on all other steering components to show up) so Im fine waiting on a replacement pipe. I have used JB weld before on a power steering line with similar hole. I will still probably fix this one for a backup and pick an extra for use on the car.

Got another quick question I can't seem to find on any diagram. The check valve located on the line going from main nylon vacuum line to 3/2 valve, I can pull 25 PSI of vacuum on either side so its not flowing either direction. This is a faulty check valve if it doesn't flow either direction correct?

Both these issues probably explain why my transmission has been shifting so hard including clunky downshifts.

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1983 300D 255K
2014 ML-350 Bluetec

Correct. Those are "one way" valves. Many times they have a small piece of detritus which has been sucked into them or are stuck due to some fluid causing them to clog.

I've had good luck soaking them in soapy water and GENTLY using a tooth pick or sewing needle to clean them. If not, it's no biggie, any of the one way valves will replace them. Nothing special about them.

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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Awesome thanks for the tip! I will try to soak mine.

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1983 300D 255K
2014 ML-350 Bluetec

Not the best thing to do long term, hot oil will deteriorate epoxy and it is possible to get chunks of epoxy inside the line where it will float down stream. Hopefully this was on the return line as if this is on the pressure side it will fail shortly.

With a steel line, a bit of copper sheet, tinning flux and plumbing solder works wonders. Even rosin core electronic solder will work but it is more difficult on steel.

If you don't have copper, take some stranded wire, flatten it then solder it to the pipe . ( Like doing fiberglass matt ) A piece of brass is 2nd choice and steel last < only because it is a bit more difficult to solder steel.

Short term, for the vac pipe or power steering return line, I'd be OK with slitting a piece of rubber hose, sliding it over the wear point and using some hose clamps over the hole.

Same goes for a PS return line and to limited effect a pressure line.

I am really sure that in post #1 he is speaking of the Vacuum Line. there should be no hot oil on it or in it.

In another post further into the thread he said had previously done a repair on the Power Steering line.

Back to the vacuum line itself. If he was on the road and found the same leak he could have wrapped several layers of Duct tape over it and continued on his way as long as it was not again rubbing.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Very solid advise! I like the solder idea I might give that a shot. I thought about the vacuum Line over the hole with hose clamps until I can get a replacement, then try to mess with a repair. The PS repair was years ago on a different car. It was the return line and it worked for well over a year until the car was sold. I do share your concerns with the JB weld as I tried it on my broken air filter mount and it didn’t bond at all to the zinc finish.

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1983 300D 255K
2014 ML-350 Bluetec

Thought about duct taping also 😂🤣😂. If you can’t duct it .........

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1983 300D 255K
2014 ML-350 Bluetec

I was referring to the PS line he repaired.in post 7.

Yes, it only has to keep out atmospheric pressure.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel