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  #16  
Old 08-06-2019, 09:58 AM
Diseasel300's Avatar
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Poorly processed WVO will quickly gum everything up in the IP and can score the pumping elements. When running WVO, it isn't that bad because the viscosity is higher and its own varnish helps clog up scoring and loose tolerances. Introduce pump diesel, especially with some bio content, and it will go to work dissolving the leftover crap from the WVO. If you have scored pumping elements, or if you have increased tolerances due to wear from WVO, you now have the inability to pump diesel to a high enough pressure to pop the injectors and the fuel rack can stick and bind from the varnish left behind. Swap the IP, don't waste your time trying to fix it further, it's just good time/money thrown after bad.

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  #17  
Old 08-06-2019, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
Poorly processed WVO will quickly gum everything up in the IP and can score the pumping elements. When running WVO, it isn't that bad because the viscosity is higher and its own varnish helps clog up scoring and loose tolerances. Introduce pump diesel, especially with some bio content, and it will go to work dissolving the leftover crap from the WVO. If you have scored pumping elements, or if you have increased tolerances due to wear from WVO, you now have the inability to pump diesel to a high enough pressure to pop the injectors and the fuel rack can stick and bind from the varnish left behind. Swap the IP, don't waste your time trying to fix it further, it's just good time/money thrown after bad.


Typical issues with using wvo might be better sourced in the alternative fuel section. Most members on this portion of the site are not really fans of using it.

There are a few users that seem to get away with using it longer term. Yet I believe they are in the smaller minority.

I would be a fan of cheaper fuel but over time on average. I do not think WVO qualifies as this. The usage of it seems to be dying out as well. In a way it is too bad that it did not work out for so many.

I have tried to keep an open mind about this. Certain bio diesel fuels depending on their bases seem to be okay. Not all though as we had so many issues locally with the locally sold bio diesel. It was withdrawn from the market. I do not know since the company selling it was very large. If they paid for all the damages it created. It was rumored the base was fish oils. My comment at the time was perhaps they did not get all the bones out.

A person transiting this area had his 1984 300d quit on the highway. He was using new vegatable oil. It was his bad luck that he had it flatbedded to a local normally very competent shop.

They had been changing out so many injection pumps on the cars using the local bio diesel and his starter had failed with too much cranking. They told him a replacement starter was needed and possibly a new injection pump.

He left the car at the garage and purchased a new one to continue the trip. I saw it siting there for some time. The garage owner and myself eventually settled at 500.00 American. It took months to secure an ownership by the garage through the court.

I then had it flatbedded home. The wire from the solenoid to the starter had burn up. I replaced it with a strip of stainless steel with two holes drilled in it. I then drained the tank but it stopped draining. The real problem was the vegetable oil had grown or developed a solid blockage in the fuel tanks vent line. The lift pump could not overcome the vacuum when it accumulated enough.

The only reason I purchased it was it seemed a genuine clean low milage example. When I purchased it no matter what it took engine wise there were good injection pumps and engines available cheap locally at the time if needed. This is not the case here now in this region anyways.

It only luckily took me a couple of hours and under two dollars in parts to have it running well again .

The only other mechanical need of that car was I think I heard a rear wheel bearing periodically. I just have not driven it enough to be certain of that. It was just his misfortune to have it stop running near the area where so many issues where caused by the local bio fuel at the time. This was just an example of what burning vegetable oil cost him.

Your compression results can be some of the rings are partially sticking. The compression results posted are not typical of these engines. This is easy to deal with when you get the engine running again. A really good ring soaking and some solvent added to the oil and fuel.

The vegetable oil that does not combust gets on the cylinder bores. It gets deposited into the ring lands and turns to a glue initially. It seems with enough accumulation and time it turns to hard carbon and scores the bores of the cylinders.

There is really nothing free in life. So you can pay now or pay later. A few of us older guys on site know how to squeeze a dollar. Hopefully just a habit acquired in the past that is not really required by us now.

I cannot speak for others but for me old habits die hard.. In my mind used vegetable oil as fuel is probably not a reasonable risk/reward scenario. That I have some bias component. Has to be a given. At the same time these are just my opinions.

Last edited by barry12345; 08-06-2019 at 12:58 PM.
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  #18  
Old 08-06-2019, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
Swap the IP, don't waste your time trying to fix it further, it's just good time/money thrown after bad.
And burn regular diesel not glop fuel . . . .
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  #19  
Old 08-09-2019, 07:45 AM
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Well the car is coming back together and I ran laquer thinner through IP.


IMG-20190809-065334686


The laquer thinner expanded my brand new primer pumps seals and I think it's just about shot. But the rack seems to be moving freely. Hopefully tomorrow I can get it going.
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  #20  
Old 08-09-2019, 08:07 AM
Gene
 
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Location: Buffalo NY
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Good luck! And do brew bio, it's the best way to run recycled WVO through these engines. NONE of the issues that straight has, and mixes easily with D2. Also, it cleans internal parts, not gums them.
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  #21  
Old 08-09-2019, 01:09 PM
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Allowed time for the soak I hope. Just in and out does not have enough time to break down fats. You of course follow this by pumping in diesel fuel. Gas engines run well on the thinner but not diesels I suspect.
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  #22  
Old 08-09-2019, 02:57 PM
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IME, regular lines are fine with WVO. It's biodiesel that turns them to mush, I'm told.
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82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times
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  #23  
Old 08-10-2019, 10:37 AM
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The Mercedes is back together. I wanted to try old pump after it had been cleaned out. No luck, still runs the same. Yes I let it soak overnight and the rack linkage fully moves. I can see it under the ADLA.



I have to swap to my other IP. Can I line up TDC, pull pump, align new pump to same marks and install?
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  #24  
Old 08-10-2019, 10:51 AM
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The "rack" is internal to the IP. Looking at the lever on the side of the IP tells you nothing. That lever just acts on a spring mechanism inside the IP to set the governor tension. The rack is controlled by the centrifugal governor. Unless you've taken the covers off the IP and inspected the internals, you have no idea if the rack is actually freed up and moving, the springs are quite weak and it takes very little to bind that mechanism up, everything is an extremely precise fit, it has to be.

Time for a new IP. Once they get gummed up, they rarely come back without a full tear down and rebuild with replacement parts.
__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)
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  #25  
Old 08-10-2019, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
Time for a new IP. Once they get gummed up, they rarely come back without a full tear down and rebuild with replacement parts.

This expense is something the WVO / BIO / old motor oil people seem to ignore.
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  #26  
Old 08-11-2019, 01:21 PM
Diesel Preferred
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,788
I'll second the idea of installing a good injection pump. My understanding is that Bosch service centers will not accept as a core an injection pump which has been used with VO / WVO because the damage is too severe and not economical to repair.
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  #27  
Old 08-13-2019, 09:17 PM
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Alright, injection pump is installed. I took alot of time researching timing and decided to go to with the 15 ATDC method. The slot in view port was perfectly centered. I placed crankshaft at 15 ATDC and lined up Pump, with slot/view port held in place. I used a mirror to ensure slot was centered.



For some reason, after many attempts I can only seem to get the pump to time in at 10 ATDC or 20 ATDC. I ran the car at 10 ATDC and it didn't want to idle very well. At 20 ATDC it runs much better and I will post a video tomorrow.



The problem is that I can't seem to acheive 15 ATDC. Maybe I'm missing something. Does the coupling (between pump and gear) have to be adjusted to allow a 5 degree decrease in timing?


Otherwise, the video will show some idling up and down at lower RPM's and the engine seems to smoke a little at idle, and more at higher RPM. I know the Injectors still have to be pop tested. Could anything be causing idling issue, or smoking from exhaust?


I don't want to adjust idle screw too much.


While taking a test drive, the car didn't want to shift to next gear easily (automatic) and I had to let off pedal to get it to shift. Which is an indication of transmission downshift not adjusted properly. I know the car shifted fine, prior to pump change and don't want to adjust downshift cable if another problem may exist.
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  #28  
Old 08-14-2019, 08:17 AM
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Once it's installed, you turn the whole pump in it's socket, like a distributor to adjust the timing.
__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times
It's hard to
more likely to
concentrate on
have an accident
two things
when you're on
at the same time.
a cell phone.


www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?
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  #29  
Old 08-15-2019, 07:58 AM
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moon161 Once it's installed, you turn the whole pump in it's socket, like a distributor to adjust the timing.


I adjusted pump and timing is right at 15 ATDC.

The car is still running smokey. I drove it up and down the street and started to loose power/died. I'm dropping the strainer in tank and checking for clogs. I think there is a fuek restriction somewhere.
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  #30  
Old 08-15-2019, 09:20 AM
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Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 2,057
You tried the bottle of diesel or diesel purge? Just take the supply and return lines off the hard lines and stick them in a bottle of diesel or diesel purge and drive it to see if it runs OK. If it does, then your problem is in the hard lines or the tank.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times
It's hard to
more likely to
concentrate on
have an accident
two things
when you're on
at the same time.
a cell phone.


www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?
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